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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #11
    The Bob Ross of MBN Bullnerd's Avatar
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    Cvs inline at full droop, at least that's what I've always read .
    Make up a dummy axle and see how far back you can go while checking plunge.
    "Speed is time-time is speed"-Dennis Hopper

    Quote Originally Posted by TALON View Post
    did you use a special bigfoot camera or something ,you know all blurry could be a tree stump kinda thing .
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #12
    Senior Member NoClue's Avatar
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    I'm using a protodie adjustable spool. The rear sprocket has like 2" of adjustment. In its rear most setting, it's just even with the hub at full droop.

    The way understand it is if you'll have too much plunge if its behind.

    Can you tilt the motor a little to clear the head?
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #13
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I'm not sure that the c/l of the flanges have to be aligned at any particular point. I could be very wrong. Let me see if I can explain (coffee's not kicked in).

    The outboard ends of the axles will travel in an arc during suspension cycling. The center of the arc will be the center line of the pivot point of the trailing arms.

    If the trans is forward of the c/l of the hubs, the axle will make an arc (of sorts - it's radius changes - short leg will be at horizontal) that has it's center at the inner CV pivot point and follows the trailing arm's arc.

    If the trans is rear of the c/l of the hubs, it's still going to make the same sort of arc, it's just going to be more obtuse of an angle than forward. The motion of the axle (plunge) is still going to be similar.

    There may be torque issues having the trans rearward, maybe? I can't see why it would induce it, but???

    The more off center from the outer hubs, the less angular change you'll see in the CV joints. If it's all perpendicular to the c/l of the car, you'll end up with the most plunge. Moving the trans forward or rearward will lessen this. Ideally the axles would pivot on the same plane as the trailing arms and you'd end up with no plunge, but really LONG axles, a rear engine setup and wild CV angles.

    Does any of this pre-coffee rambling make sense?

    Where's bdkw when you need him? - stuck in Kansas, that's where!
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #14
    Senior Member NoClue's Avatar
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    Ahhh...i remember now...your pre coffee made me remember...cv angles, not plunge. And the hub even with the trans had to do with getting max droop for max travel.

    So slik, do you have your rear shocks? How are you determining full droop? I would wait till you have a pair of cvs, your axles, and shocks before mounting your rpm.
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #15
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    I think I understand what your saying. My brain has been hurting.

    So what I did to figure this out. I took the car and lowered it to 3" off the ground. Collapsed the shocks and mad a temporary mount. Then raised the car to full droop. Set the rpm in place at c/l of hubs. Lowered the rpm as deep in the frame as possible for better cv angle. At full droop with my angle finder I had about 23-24 degrees for the axles. The problem I was seeing is that if I install the engine first then the rpm wouldn't fit.

    So if i read that correctly kfab I have the rpm where it needs to be yes? So if it is then I will just have to make the engine fit. Hell maybe ill mount the engine on the hood. Then ill have a long chain life

    Thanks for the help guys. This simple task is kicking my ass.
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #16
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    Noclue. I was wondering about the order to set this up. Tut told me that also about the shocks. Where I ran into a problem, how do you find c/l on the hubs to mount the rpm. I was wondering at what point you start. I can't find c/l on hubs without the shocks to give me an idea of droop. Am I thinking of this right. Or should I go about it differently. When I mount the shocks should full bump be where they bottom or make it so the car can almost hit the ground and add bump stops.

    I asked this on my build thread also. If I was to extend the trailing arms a couple inches would that change any of the angles for the hub plate. As long as I keep it at the same angles just add longer tubes on the trailing arms everything should keep the same angle through its travel.
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    Re: Tut minilite car
    #17
    Senior Member NoClue's Avatar
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    I would wait until you have all the parts for the rear. Cv's (at least 2), axle (at least one), trans, shock or shocks, and hub. Using cv and axles, temporarily place trans, figure out full droop or close to it. Move trans for placement, check cv angles. Then figure out shock mounts. On mine, the shock limits the droop...I ended up with about 2" of space between the frame and ground. (Less under the rear sprocket).
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