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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #11
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Motor is open as I will start looking in the for sale adds, ebay, junk yards etc for something that will work. I know what I want but to find it and not pay to much is going to be, well probably tough. But Motorcycle on this one for sure. Plus I have been talking to Protodie for a rear diff for sure.
    As I want to run it in an pro class I want to go upwards of 1,000cc as that seems to be the pro class rules on motor size from the organizations rules I have read. That should push me pretty good. I will not be the lightest with the desert version I am doing but I should be pretty darn tough and at speed run through the rough very well.

    I am going to run the 28 inch tall mud terrains. I really like the look, soft compound and they are not to heavy. The 28 inch height will give me decent ground clearence to get my full 14 inches of travel.

    I will be ordering all my heims and bungs for making the front arms this weekend and should see them within 2 weeks. I also picked up the rear plates, bushings, pivots and heims for making my rear arms.
    Lastly I picked up my front bulkheads so I can install a set of mock up arms into it and get started making all my arms in about 2 weeks. Very cool.

    It will take some time as it will have to be done on the side of my job, side jobs, racing and well some real world stuff. But I have a goal and want to try to have it done by end of October?? Maybe?

    I think the size is perfect. My Desert version is 110" inches bumper to bumper. And my fixture is set to do 108. Or 9 feet. Not to big, not to small. It can be a bit bigger and make the rules so I feel good I actually came in under some. Nice. Wheel base is the only reason I would push it to the max length of the rules but if your running on a track then staying around the 90 inch wheel base is plenty especially for quick cornering and tight racing. I might make mine a little more as I run in the desert also. Will see.

    I agree that there is a growing sport for this size buggy. I like that I fit well within the general rules that everyone is using. The 72 X 120" sizing.
    Sounds good then I will go 72 wide then and that way I am good to go as that does seem universal by most everyone.

    Like I said this one is a "Desert" car and I can remove all the extra small webbing, change some bars and shave some weight. I added 23 pounds to the car to go desert style. So not massive for the extra protection I wanted and extra body covering you can see that I colored onto it. But it can be 23 pounds lighter and have the same look and style as my new red a arm car I just built almost exactly.

    Well cool I have wanted to do this for a long time. I also can not wait to see how it turns out as it is new for me as well and I am excited to be building it. Very cool and fun.

    Thanks everyone for the info, help, kind words and feedback much appreciated.


    Trenton Ohio, thats a cool little buggy.. nice!
    Last edited by TutTech; 07-31-2010 at 03:55 AM.


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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #12
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    The only problem I see would be the motor,I think a 1000 would be to big for the stadium lite class.It looks like it would fit in the Reline-Honda Pilot type class?But it all depends on what your building it for.Looks great,I cant wait to see the progress.Keep up the good work Tut...
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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #13
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    I have set this car up in 2 versions.
    First the Desert version as I go to the desert mostly and will race it at places like Glen Helen that has been built for full size trucks and buggies it will run fine there. The bigger size may help on their bigger size jumps etc. Who knows?
    The Desert version is also an "Open Class" so it would have to race with the Drakarts, modified guys etc. if I race it also. So I will go as long travel as I can etc. with it. As I will mostly just play with it and run it in the desert as my own person single seat car I will not just go strictly by the rules but fit just within them so I can or could race it if I want too. Which I probably will.

    The only real draw back or thing keeping it from being a true desert car is the short wheel base and I am probably going air shocks now to both save weight and for being able to adjust the shocks better on such a small and lighter car as you don't have a lot of choiced when it comes to coils and spring rates on such light cars. Also smaller fuel cell and tire size. As on a track your racing on a tractor made course that does not have huge rocks, drop offs etc. So you can run smaller parts and lighter parts also. Then the open desert where you have to build to be ready for anything.
    So no you will not see this racing accross your local deserts. Atleast I don't think. But you never know with me I may upgrade to coil over with reservoirs and a bigger tank and go for it. The shorter wheel base is a bit small but heck looking at around the 92 inch wheel base range isn't horrible.
    The larger motor is for moving the more weight and larger tires. So that is why this car gets the bigger motor. The other version will be smaller.

    The other version is the more true to life Stadium or short course buggy.
    It will have a 4 inch shorter cab and 6 inch shorter motor compartment over the desert version.
    6 inch shorter motor compartment as you will be running a smaller motor and probably a cvt.
    So you don't need the room for the possible up grade to a FNR etc. later.
    Plus pulling in the motor and rear end tighter and closer and not stretching them out for a longer cooler chain if going cvt. So making the over all wheel base more around the 70-75 inch range and the cars width can be as narrow as 60 inches depending on tire size etc.

    So I have 2 versions in the works. Not a lot to show you in the frames as they are both the same just one is shorter. Nothing huge to see there but will shrink everything as you assemble it too.
    Also you will not run the extra desert bracing and not run the extra desert gear I am going to do. Possible spare tire. Larger fuel tank. Larger tires and rims. Heavier too.
    You would run UTV tires and rims, in a 13 inch or 14 max size.
    You will run only a single brake on the rear drive etc.

    Little differences but they all will add up to the changes that will make one a true stadium car that can run and race in the stadium class.
    The other for racing in the open class and taking out to the deserts and playing mostly with your buddies on their quads, buggies etc.

    Hope that explains my thoughts I have behind my project?


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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #14
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    Tut- another good looking chassis! Looks like there could be enuf room in the back for a VW engine and tranny. Keep up the good work.
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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #15
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    You know me I could fit a VW in anything.

    (my brothers 2 seat mini for his son. & his race car in back ground.)

    Heck for stock you only need approx. 36 inches or less to fit a vw motor and tranny into something. Shoot if custom exhaust is used you can make a pretty small buggy with those moved out of the way. And starting out with 1600cc and some torque that is always nice and then going up to 2,400cc and a turbo and OMG!! speed can easily be reached.
    But seriously yep you can fit a vw motor in any mini if you wanted to.

    Thanks for the kind words as always.


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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #16
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    Tut this looks really good! I need to get working on mine here again. I kinda stalled out for a little while, but i'm feeling the itch again.
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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #17
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Ya I haven't seen an update in a bit ba450crf.

    Well I managed to fit in a couple hours and ran over and picked up the front bulkhead plates I had cut out for it. Then some material for the front arms and enough heims to mock up the front.
    So I started mocking up a pair of arms. I didn't want to be to far forward as I think a car rides better if the a-arms are to the rear a little it may dive a bit under breaking etc. but I think the trade off is worth it for a smoother ride all the time and some drop on braking. At least I think.
    So here is what I mocked up so far.
    Front bulkheads plated together, bracing going up and out.
    A-arms mocked up 1.5 inches to the rear of straight. Then just enough room for a full size rack to squeeze in behind the bulkheads and then once I put that in then finish bracing the front end.


    Once I like the arm I went to the trusty mock up table I had made and set out to make a quick fixture to hold my mock up arm in place why I could make 4 new arms to correct specs.


    Made the arms the same from left to right all you do is flip them over for whichever side your running and add a set of tabs for the lower arms. So I could carry one spare bottom & one spare top and then wait if I damage one just weld on the shock tab for whichever side it ends up being if its a bottom and if it's a top just bolt it on. Done.
    Here they are in place on the car.


    These are DOM 1 1/4 by .120 wall lower arms and 1 inch by .120 wall uppers. We will give that a try for starters on a single seat car I think I am going to be ok. Will see.
    I have not put in the lower braces and shock mounts. Still more to do. Just mocking up for now.

    This car is all set to be approx. 72 inches wide depending on size of tire and rims I go with.

    Thanks for looking more updates as I can add them.
    Last edited by TutTech; 07-31-2010 at 05:27 PM.


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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #18
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    Cant wait to see what this one turns out like.
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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #19
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Ok was able to make up one of my rear trailing arms.
    (Not fully done but good enough to put onto car to set it up. As this is my desert car also I went about as long wheel base as I felt I should. Total wheel base is 90 inches and I am going to be 72 inches wide.)

    Here is a quick pic of me making the arm on the fixture table.


    Ok mocking up rear trailing arm pivot tube and rear arm





    and a couple shots with the steering wheel being set up with the seat etc.








    Thanks for looking.
    Last edited by TutTech; 08-05-2010 at 10:19 AM.


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    Re: Mini A-arm Single Seat Race Buggy
    #20
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    Excellent Tut,
    Is that a standard rear plate you use for all your trailing arms?
    You would have mentioned it, but what brakes and hubs do you bolt up to that, with what dia disc?

    Thanks,
    Nick.
    Ride it like you Stole IT!!!
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