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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #21
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    I just think that is what Gene and the original post was referring to..
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #22
    Admin Gene's Avatar
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    We agree to disagree then. Can't argue with sucess either way - just point out different ways to do it successfully . . .

    I'll add to what Bug said in this edit - see my thread in Another Mini for my front end design by F1Prerun.

    Gene
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #23
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    Standfast, I hope you dont mind me using this quote of yours from another post. I was hoping you can tell me if I am understanding this right ... The spindle should be mounted as close to the centerline of the lower A arm. Or you could say the center of the wheel should be as close to the centerline of the lower arm. Am I close?

    Quote Originally Posted by standfast View Post
    Not sure what spindle/hub/upright combo you are gonna use but you may consider running a shorter upper arm to get your KPI correct while keeping your outer lower pivot as close to the tire centerline as possible to cut down on camber change in a turn and to cut down on leverage on the snout/heim/bolt.
    ALW
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #24
    Millenium Member RickS.'s Avatar
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    I think what he's saying is push the lower arm's heim as close to the tire centerline as possible. This way your spindle isn't hanging out creating a huge lever. An offset Wheel can help keep this to a minimum. With front steer and Ackerman the steering arm's heim will probably be what limits how deep you can go. In this drawing look how close the steering heim comes to the rotor.

    Here's a pic. to go with the attachment
    Last edited by RickS.; 01-03-2010 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Added Picture
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #25
    Admin Gene's Avatar
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    Good diagram RickS. Why not run the tie rod heil in the same orientation as the A-arm? Just wanna know . . .
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #26
    Millenium Member RickS.'s Avatar
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    On this design the heim spacers would max out going the other way. Personally I like to see them this way. It's a strong simple double shear mount on the heim.
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #27
    Junior Member mkjprice's Avatar
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    RcTek - Radio Controlled Model Car Handling Main Section Page


    I just bookmarked this link so I can go back and reference it. This is really helpful information since I have a number of RC cars already - Fantastic Knowledge base to build from - Thanks a ton!!!!
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #28
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkjprice View Post
    RcTek - Radio Controlled Model Car Handling Main Section Page


    I just bookmarked this link so I can go back and reference it. This is really helpful information since I have a number of RC cars already - Fantastic Knowledge base to build from - Thanks a ton!!!!

    I did the same thing. At first I couldn't afford anything like a buggy or SXS or whatever so I supplemented with RC Cars. IF anyone wants to oneway build their own toy I would strongly suggest buying an RC car, similar to what you want to build. Its way cheaper than a mistake in the geometry of the front assembly.

    What I want to know is what sort of caster, camber, and toe do you want at full bump, ride height and full droop? I can't seem to find that anywhere. Do you want it consistent throughout the travel of the suspension? I would think if you were at full bump you would want some sort of camber. But camber in or camber out at full bump?

    Answers anyone???
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #29
    Millenium Member Deranged's Avatar
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    Great question. You will get SO many different answers on this.

    Here is my thought on your questions.
    Caster. I think 5* to 7* at the upright is what I would shoot for.
    Camber. At ride height maybe 1/2* of negative? Full bump maybe 5*-8* full droop near zero.
    Toe. I run 1/8" toe in. This is on 28" tires. The less toe change throughout the suspension travel the less bump steer you will get. I think I am at 1/2" the last 2" of suspension travel into full bump.

    One thing I will add into the mix is rake. Rake is viewed from the side. The suspension mounting points are raked up at maybe 5 to 6* Your suspension travel will go up and back at the same time.

    Justin
    Nowhere near the desert.
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    Re: Suspension Questions
    #30
    Millenium Member plkracer's Avatar
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    I'll add some more,

    I've found that you need more caster angle as you increase the scrub of the front tire to the king pin line. I run 8 degrees to keep it stable, but have 1.5 inches of scrub in the sand. This makes steering difficult on hard pack.

    I have found that increased toe in at full bump is helpful to keep the tires pointed straight after a nose heavy landing. My last car had toe out at bump, you had to fight the steering wheel. This car toes in about 1/2 inch from full droop to full bump, and it really mellow even when the front end plows in.

    Camber at full droop should be negative some amount, this reduces the scrub of the tire. I think 3 degrees at full droop, 1 degree at ride, and 5-7 at full bump work well (all negative) again depends on tire size, and suspension design. The more travel past where the arms are horizontal, the more camber you need.
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