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    OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    After seeing voodoochikin04’s recent post about his HF bending success it reminded me that I was going to share my experience with this loved/hated tool. I totally forgot about this until his thread so thanks for reminding me. I have used both the HF and a JD2 successfully to bend multiple chassis and other projects. Basically the HF costs significantly less but will take more time and take more work to get the same result as the JD2. So less money/more time for the HF and more money/less time for the JD2. Here goes.

    As you may or may not know the HR bender is intended to bend PIPE and not TUBING. Pipe is for conveying liquids and is usually manufactured to an I.D. Tubing is for building structures and is usually manufactured to an O.D. with a specified wall thickness. Don’t use any type of pipe for a roll cage or chassis period. Believe it or not there is a third option. Some steel manufacturers make what is called “PIPE SIZE STEEL TUBING” for building structures. This is actual steel tube made to a nominal pipe size. The first picture shows what one company offers. *What this means is you can properly bend this stuff with your HF bender because it actually fits very tightly in the die. The main problem that people have with this bender is it kinks or mashes the TUBEING because it doesn’t fit properly in the PIPE die. This product solves this problem and it’s stronger and cheaper than most pipe to boot. For example this particular PSST is roughly 22% stronger than the “Black Pipe” the company offers just comparing the yield strengths. It is also roughly 13% weaker than most 1020 cold drawn DOM. Other companies offer higher strength alternatives in these sizes. So for ST2 builders this would be a good low cost material to use since that’s what the plans call for.
    Bottom line if you already own a HF bender the PSST is a great material to use. However if you have the JD2 or similar type TUBE benter, cold drawn 1020 DOM is the best choice for chassis/roll cage construction without stepping up to 4130.

    Here is how I did it so don’t laugh too much.


    Step 1: Make some tools.

    I made a super badass stand for the HF out of scrap which can be leveled. *An aluminum protractor for transferring the angles from paper to the tube, and a sweet little marking tool for making the tubes. A ghetto stop for repeating bends was also made. This way I could just run the bender up to the stop and not worry about watching the angle.


    Step 2: Cut and mark the tubes to spec.

    Also mark the center of your die as accurately as possible. Another thing I used was a short section of heavy wall tubing cut in half slightly larger than what I was bending. These were used to protect the chassis tubes so they wouldn’t get dimpled by the rollers.


    Step 3: Bend away!

    Make sure the bender is level and use a dangleOmeter to get the bend close the desired angle. Then set the protractor with a print out of the proper angle and check the bend. If it is off tweak accordingly. I also had to notch my bender base to accomplish some bends. If your tube has a weld seam make sure it is put to the side of the bend and not to the inside or outside of the bend otherwise it may split.
    As you can see the bends are perfect with no crushing, kinking, or stretching to speak of. However if you have to go beyond 90ish degrees it will start to dimple because of the die’s shape. I hope this clears up some of the myths about this bender and lets you know what can and cannot be done with one.
    Common sense is not so common ~ Voltaire
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    These were supposed to be the first two pictures. [smilie=banghead.gif]
    Common sense is not so common ~ Voltaire
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    BANNED renegadespec1's Avatar
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    Boostick,
    I,m glad you posted the pix ... I started out with one in the 80's and ended up doing almost the same as you did...then I ended up building one that was horizontal and driven with an acme rod...I know that you can make some decent bends with them with some patients on .120 wall tube and heavier, yours lack the scarring from using the wrong size die's...
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    Many years ago I did sort of the same thing except I made my dies and made the saddle in the die come above the tube centerline(deeper groove than is normally seen) to keep the sides of the tube compressed which will aid greatly in preventing kinking.That way I was able to bend down to .058 4130 without distortion.
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Fantastic post!!! *Great info - thanks for sharing Boo.
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
    #6
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    nice stand for the bender, i just laid mine flat on the floor. *
    the tube i used is 1 inch mechanical round steel tubing, with a .120 wall thickness (which is .005 off of 1/8th inch, which is why i called in 1/8th). it fits perfectly in the "1/2" HF pipe die, after the grinding mods. it does not gouge the tube sides as people have assumed, but it does rub while being bent. so how did you make the stops for duplicating angles?
    I wear a tie.....

    note to self: act normal around nutz4sand...
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    Senior Member hummerman's Avatar
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    K-fab blessed me and parted with his protools bender to me!!!

    Thing works perfect *
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    Re: OHH NO!!!! Another HF Pipe Bender Thread
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    Voodoo,


    All I did was weld a nut to a piece of scrap and clamp it to the bender. Then I took a length of threaded rod and screwed it down through the nut and locked it in place with another nut. So once the first bend was made, I screwed the threaded rod down until it hit the die. Then used the other nut to lock the rod in place and released the hydraulic ram. Now all you have to do for the next bend is pump the ram up to the threaded rod and you’re done. It will take a few times to get the feel for it but once you do your bend is within a degree or so of the last one. Just look at the pic, I think it shows everything, if not let me know.


    You could obviously make something better and look nice, but I put all of two minutes into the stop and the stand. * Haha they really are cheesy, I know, but they do work. I think all my bends came out great and dead nuts on…just took a while. By the way all of the bent tubing is 1.315 x .095 wall PSST, if anyone was interested. Thanks for the kind words guys.
    Common sense is not so common ~ Voltaire
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