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    Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
    #1
    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Ok made some rear trailing arms and front a arms on my Fixture table I had made out of a nice thick piece of aluminum that was then water jetted with I forget something like 1,500 holes! each 1 inch a part.
    Perfect for making some fixtures to bolt onto it and then being able to move it exactly 1 inch at a time to adjust the size of my parts I want to build.

    So here is the table itself.



    And then for now I set it up and started making some fixtures to allow me to make my own custom front A-arms and Rear Trailing arms.

    So Here is what I have so far.
    I took one of my old rear trailing arms and set it up on the table.
    This old arm is 5 inches longer then a stock VW rear arm and 5 inches wider then
    a stock VW arm. Nice starting point I figured for what I wanted to do.


    then made a really small torsion or pivot tube to mount up a left and right arm to it and threaded bungs in the ends for the arms to bolt on to.
    It is super small just for the fixture table but allows me to build left and right arms off of a single piece. Then they will always be the same if I should need another or say want a longer wheel base etc.
    Here is pic of the mini housing



    Then I made a plate to hold my rear bearing carrier at the length and width I would want but be able to unbolt and switch from side to side and length/width I wanted.




    Ok worked out the wheelbase I wanted and the size of arms I would want to make and well.... started building them. They are 1.25 inch chromoly tubing by .120 wall thick.. should hold up to what I want to do.

    Here is the step by step building of the rear arm.













    Ok so that is pretty much it.
    I will add one more tube back to the arm once I mount a shock mount so I can support it and then tie it back accross to the other tubes.. so it kind of X or Z braces the arm. I will not plate it for the kind of use I am doing.. and the tubing is all .120 wall.. so it's going to hold up. So I will just try them out like this for now and see what I think.

    Here is the old 5x5 arm next to my new trailing arm I built.
    And if your wondering the new arm is roughly 10 inches wider by 15 longer.



    and here they both are ligned up with the rear full size housing I made.



    Ok then that can just be mounted into any buggy and your all set.
    I can make the arms any length and width and the housing any width so you can just weld it in. Perfect for the different cars I build like single seater or two seater etc.
    Nice.
    Last edited by TutTech; 04-30-2010 at 10:44 AM.


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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Ok so onto my front arms.
    I wanted to roughly go the max my trailer would allow. Why?
    Well the wider the less angle issues I will have the less bumpsteer with the most amount of wheel travel can be gained and I drive in places like Glamis and the open desert.
    So... I can do that.

    Plus if I shoot for the widest that will fit in my trailer then I can always scale down from there and be able to use the tables 1 inch holes to simply do the math to make other arms in any width to make other cars in any width I choose. So mine would be the guinea pig so to speak.

    First off let me step back for a second and say I had some bulk heads plasma cut out so I would always have a starting point for my top and bottom arms to match up to.
    I can slide them onto my cars front end and I can go different widths with them and make it so I can run different heims, width on a arm spacing and of course build my arms to any length.
    They are a simple copy of the same plate cut out 4 times. I set them up weld them and then I will plate them in. Pretty cool really.

    Here they are.


    Ok.. now with those set and spacing set I can get started making a arms.
    I made some basic tab mounted fixtures to mount onto my fixture table.. (improvements I can see will be needed and I am working on that as we speak) but for now I was able to use them and make my arms.

    Here is the arms being built on the table.




    and the completed arms now set into the bulkheads and onto some spindles I will be welding up.





    Ok so far not bad.
    I think this will work and with the bulkheads I can always make different arms etc. and just change them in and out.

    For now these arms are 1.25 chromoly tubing in .120 wall thick for the bottom arms with 3/4 heims.
    The top arm is 1" by .120 wall chromoly with 5/8 heims.
    Both use 1/2 hardware to hold them.



    With the width of this car and the shocks mounted onto the arms, steering rack mounted and tie rods all set the car currently has 25 inches of wheel travel!
    15 inches of droop and 10 inches of compression. With a 30 inch tire I have over 5 inches of ground clearance at full droop. (will check this for sure when tires are mounted.) But the arms currently cycle at 25 inches of travel and all is useable at this time.

    Bumpsteer is less then an 1/8th inch and that is only at full droop as the arms start to come inward on themselves and get scrub. Not a lot but some. I am trying to remove all bumpsteer and can if I limit travel to 22 inches.. it is that last 3 inches of droop that I get the bump to come in.
    We will see what I do.. limit strap can stop it easy and on the next set of a arms make the shock mount a little farther down the arm limiting wheel travel to only 22 inches.. ha ha.. easy. But for this car may just leave it and see how bad it is?? as the test or guinea pig that's what shes for.
    Last edited by TutTech; 04-30-2010 at 09:51 AM.


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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Ok and then last thing is I am able to simply stand the table up out of the way when I am not using it.
    All mounts just bolt on and can stay in place on it if I want them too.
    Or come off and go on the fixture/parts shelf.



    I'm also going to set it up to hang on the wall out of the way.
    For now I picked up some low cost saw horses to set it up on for working in the future but was thinking of going more high tech at some point and picking up a motor stand where I can bolt the table to the motor stand so I can rotate the entire table. So I can angle it like a drafting table or flip it almost over to weld and fit parts etc. and it can roll around so I can spin and turn the entire table also.
    Just an idea.


    Thanks for looking.


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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
    #4
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    Really nice job on the parts. How thick is the plate that you have? I should take the plate off the top of my welding table and have a bunch of holes cut like you have done.

    Louis
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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    looks good Tut...
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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    The aluminum is 1/4 inch thick 6061 so I can do some welding on it and it holds and does not bend etc. as I attach parts to it.
    As I was saying I was thinking of mounting it to a stand etc. and I guess I can make it more supported etc. if it starts to bow or bend mounted like that.
    As I used it now on saw horses it don't move or bend at all even with the pretty heavy rear trailing arms on it. Super nice.

    Plus with the ability to move your parts by 1 inch at a time is awesome.
    I set up the buggy I am working on with a 100 inch wheel base but now for example I can make my rear arms 3 inches longer and it will be the exact size for the Desert Lites racing class.
    So it's awesome to be able to make adjustments like that and be very exact.

    I mocked up and then fixtured up my front arms for example to come off my front bulkheads on the front of the car then to tie into those spindles and I wanted the spindles to be at 10 degrees.
    After I made my top and bottom a arms and pulled them off the fixture table and bolted them up onto the buggy they measured at 9.7 degrees! Thats awesome now I just adjust .3 degrees with my heims and I am all set. Make this set and heims exact and then I can probably make them out of bushings and not need heims with how close they are. But one thing at a time let me get this car out and tested first.

    Hey Sicksand if you like the parts wait tell you see the buggy.
    I think its turning out great and fits my style and desert looks I like to build into my cars.
    But it will be a Dual sport so I can go to Glamis, Pismo, Dumont but then have it carry a spare tire
    for me at my races etc. Super Nice. I will call it a mini as it is just under a 100 inch wheel base car and over all it's small and can run a motorcycle engine easily. I will weigh it soon too for specs etc.

    Plus the biggest thing is it's an A-arm buggy so it is a whole new world.


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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Millenium Member RickS.'s Avatar
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    Nice, I like the way you think.
    I build my arms in a similar way using a WJ plate with mounting blocks.
    The grid pattern is a great idea.
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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Killer work Tut! I like the hole idea.
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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Super Moderator TutTech's Avatar
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    Wow Rick, that block and fixture set up is way ahead of me. Wow really nice. Great job and great set up.

    I just wanted something I could use in my little shop just starting out as I will need to make changes and make all different sizes so this is what I thought up.
    It gives me the ability to build little fixtures to bolt onto it and then the ability to move my little fixtures around 1 inch at a time. So I really like it and it worked out killer!
    My parts, well almost look store bought. And just as accurate as any fabricated parts I have ever bought. So awesome I just learned something new and now never have to buy arms again and can now make all my own! Sweet!

    Plus custom lengths or sizes are extremely expensive and for my style and design of my cars I wanted something longer. 15 inches longer then stock is almost $950 dollars a pair as my lowest price and I still have to weld them. Then another $250 for the housing and mounts. Sheesh.
    So now I build it myself for half the price... Don't get me wrong the chromoly is expensive, the plates to be cut etc. expensive, the bungs, brackets etc. expensive... but still half as much and I build to suit each car and wheel base now. Awesome!
    As you can tell Im pretty happy.


    Thanks for the input and kind words.
    Last edited by TutTech; 04-30-2010 at 02:35 PM.


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    Re: Parts Fixture Table. Made Front & Rear arms on it
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    Very nice! I do want to see the car now.

    how much do 1500 holes watercut cost??
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