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    #11
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    Bugpac, Thanks for the input. The reason I thought I needed 1.5 tube on the bottom chassis is when I spoke with bikelomen he was using 1.5 sq tube for his bottom which was the closest size avail to the spec'd metric size. When I decided to go round tube for the bottom, I just assumed I needed to use the 1.5" round to keep the size similar. I'll let Rorty make the call on this one since he designed this particular frame.

    Bikelomen, Yes I did use a gasless on the table. Because that's what I had on hand the other night. When I build the chassis I'm using a Robart gas fed mig. And yes I wouldn't trust these welds on a race or rec frame. I can assure you though, this table is not going to fall apart. Ha!
    BTW: gotta love the spatter!!!!
    Thanks
    Tripp
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    #12
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    Gene, I need to thank you for taking the time last Sunday and letting me stop in the shop and check out your project. I'm sure you didn't get as much done as you had planned. I really learned alot and you brought to my attention some great pointers/tips.

    BTW: Unlike many I'm sure, Gene has access to a really cool fab shop with lots of room and tooling. ("spoiled rotten!")

    Thanks Gene!

    K-Fab, Bikelomen and Rorty, You guys talked me into it. I'm going steel top! 1/4" plate. "What was I thinking?"..... I'm done with wood shop!
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    #13
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    i have one point to steel top to make, not saying yeah or nay, but slag balls stick and always need be scraped off etc, wood no do, and wood can be screwed to for jigging , and removed real easy, and you can draw on wood for layout nice tight lines etc, i used wood.. plus wood can be replaced real easy and real cheap... 8)
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    #14
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    Funny, I already topped the table with wood and completely laid out the bottom chassis rails. My original thought was as you said, make wood jig blocks (screwed down), easy layout, cheap, low maintnance ect. Then Rorty made some good points: sky hooks and spraying with cooking oil to help prevent slag/spatter stick. Also I won't mind taking the sanding disc to the top to clean once in a while or as necessary. Then I thought... I've been in a lot of steel shops/ fab shops and have never seen a wood top table when welding is the primary source of "Glue". Just have to do layout prior to oiling the top.

    I think I'll manage and do fine with a steel top. so that's what I'm going with.

    Thanks Bugpac,
    Tripp
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    #15
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    A wood sheet top is ideal for just one build and the guide blocks can indeed be glued/screwed down, but who ever builds just one car? Being able to weld temporary helpers to the table is a huge asset.

    Dune, if you lay out the lines with a quality straight edge and a really sharp scriber, they'll be there for ever.

    You'll need the centre line along the long axis of the table and then scribe a line either side of it, about 50mm to 100mm from the edge of the table. Then you'll need to scribe in the axle lines and a few others across the table for referrence lines to enable checking of tube and component positions. Job done! 8)
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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rorty
    A wood sheet top is ideal for just one build and the guide blocks can indeed be glued/screwed down, but who ever builds just one car? Being able to weld temporary helpers to the table is a huge asset.

    Dune, if you lay out the lines with a quality straight edge and a really sharp scriber, they'll be there for ever.

    You'll need the centre line along the long axis of the table and then scribe a line either side of it, about 50mm to 100mm from the edge of the table. Then you'll need to scribe in the axle lines and a few others across the table for referrence lines to enable checking of tube and component positions. Job done! 8)
    seems he is building a rorty car, i was assuming it was for only one build. licensing etc.. wood great for one build, and its far cheaper..if i was going to build more than one car, steel would be the only way i agree... 8)
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    #17
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    Wood, cheaper? no way! I "only" spent $326.00 on my 1/4" plate top today (5'x10" sheet) "Ouch!!!". bugpak, I am planning on building more than one car on this table. Probably gonna build a 4 seat full size chassis at some point down the road. I also wanted to have a nice table for whatever other fab I might be doing as well.


    The table is done! The bottom frame is re-laid out and the plan CD arrived today. Thanks, Rorty!!

    Just went and bought a new welder today. Just a little gas fed Miller 135
    I was gonna use my buddy's Robart but figured what the hell. Also waiting on the arrival of my JD2 model 3 bender with the air/hydrolic kit . should be here by Tues next week. I was down in Medford, Or. on Wed and picked up a JD2 TN-100 Tube notcher from Medford tools also. Saw this in Gene's shop had to have it!

    I think I'm getting close to havng what I need to get started. Cool! 8)
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    #18
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    I was able to get started today. Picked uop the DOM tubing and went to work. As I mentioned earlier, I went with the round tube bottom frame. everthing seems to be going smooth. Was able to get the JD2 MDL 3 bender figured out pretty quick and started tacking the bottom frame together. The JD2 tube notcher worked out awesome as well. still have a fwew pieces left to install on the bottom frame but this is where I left off for today. Once I liked everything I went ahead and welded the bottom frame.

    FYI: using 1-1/4" .095 DOM tube, The bends require anywhere between +4 to +6 deg additional to compensate for spring back. A 90 deg bend requires +6 degs on the bender. So I learned today... 8)

    Heres the pics:

    For my bender I used the pedistal that came with it and welded a trike setup with 2 locking castors and one free roller. This bender works sweet with the hydrolic pump kit I welded the trike tubes on top of the base plate to keep working hight as low as possible.
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    #19
    Senior Member dune's Avatar
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    Bender rolling base pic:
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    Holy Smokes!
    #20
    Admin Gene's Avatar
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    At this rate you will be finished before me!

    If I had a shop and tools at my house I'd be done by now. Yeah, I'm fortunate to have a pal with a shop and tools who is kind enough to let me camp there for months on end. Oh! to have my own shop and tools!

    Great start! I just know that this winter will be very productive. BTW . . . don't forget about GK Machine for those laser cut parts. Contact me if you need the lowdown...

    Gene
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