Thread: My Rorty R82s

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    My Rorty R82s
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    Senior Member bikelomen's Avatar
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    Ok here is the start of my car. I should have taken photos earlier but did not get a chance. Yoshi go easy I did not design the car I just read the prints LOL. Bugpack I decided not to go with the stock bumper like we talked about. I am still not sure how i am going to finish it off I left it long so I can chop it if need be, but we will see. I am going to go with a different rear drive then Rorty specs as I do not want to hunt everywhere for BMW parts so I am just going to modify a bearing carrier to run it. I have my Motor which is a Honda 1000RR at HEads Up Performance and he is removing all my smog and unwanted wiring that I do not need. Heads up is here in Vegas so I went out there and droped off the motor. He is located at the speedway and that place is just a toyfest. I was driving in and a indy car passed me as they were testing one in the industrial park. Shelby is out there as well and they had about 50 new Shelby mustangs in the parking lot along with Andretti racing, you name it and it was out there. I am going to build a custom aircleaner housing due to the Honda's bieng huge. The only problem is it has secondary injectors in the air box so I will have to design something with that in mind. I am thinking of an air ram design similar to the ones used on the turbo motors. Well thats it for now I will try to keep this post updated.
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    Vendor yoshi's Avatar
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    your adding something here,..right?????
    www.SinisterSandSports.com
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    #3
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    you have been busy, looking good!!! 8)
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    Senior Member bikelomen's Avatar
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    Yes I am adding a cross bar behind that mount per the drawings as well as my steering support that goes in that area and supports it further. That mount will be super strong when I am done. It also gets another angled bar to the frame and I am thinking of doing a kicker behind it going down to the base frame at a 45 degree for further support. I also have a lot to due on the rear as i am waiting to get my motor back and get the airbox done prior to building the support around the motor. The airbox takes up so much room when I remove it and build a new one it should allow me to push the motor further forward in the frame. Also the cross bar behind the driver seat is just a temp support that is going to go all the way across the frame and then get two angled braces. The frame is not done yet. As you know the frame was designed to be built out of .065 and be super strong intended to race in Australia and pass there safety inspections in TORC. I have used .095 and 1020 for further strength. Below is a picture of a completed frame from the Rorty site. Yoshi I know you are always trying to help and I want to thank you for all your input on everyones buggy as you seem to be the one who does all of the R&D. I also due take all of your input into other buggies in concideration in the building of my own, but try and remember. There is over 200 ways to make change for a dollar LOL. :?
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    Vendor yoshi's Avatar
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    I was looking at your picture of the 2 bars that stop that I circled. I understand that you are putting a brace in there. I am curious if you notched the tubes before you welded them in place, they look to be straight and I don't see how your gonna attach them to the cross bar unless you are gonna take a grinder and radius them by hand?
    www.SinisterSandSports.com
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    Senior Member bikelomen's Avatar
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    They are going to be replaced or knotched with an 1 1/4" Carborundum sanding drum in my die grinder when I decide on if i am going to install the kicker or not. I think the plans call for the steering shaft to go through the hole for the rack as the rack sits in front of the front a arm mounts, but I am not sure as they do not show that part in the prints. If the shaft does then I will have to place the kicker below the hole and put the cross bar above. The plan was to put either a bar across or weld a flat plate and kicker it. I am not really concerned it is a small repair when I get the rack decided on that way I can incorperate the shaft brearing support in the design of the cross bar and kicker.
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    #7
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    what did you think of the plans?
    are you building everything to spec, or incorporating your own drivetrain design. 8)
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    #8
    Senior Member bikelomen's Avatar
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    The plans are top notch. They are the best I have seen so far (and i have every set available on the market so far). It took a bit to get used to the metric system again but now that I have used it I like it better. The drive train i am going a different route. The cassette design he has is pretty sweet but I dont want to try and get a hold of a bunch of BMW parts and spend a ton on laser or water cutting. i am just going with a chain drive and rear bearing carrier. Plus I did not like the idea of the keyed jack shaft in his design I thought it might be the weak link. I do like the fact that it lowers your driveline and gives you about 5 more inches of travel but oh well. I think I am going to try and fabricate the reverse option starter motor like Yoshi has on his first car. I like the idea it is there just in case. I am just not sure what he used for a gear on the rear. It looks like a flex plate off a sb chevy. I found a starter motor that is only 8 lbs and should do the trick just right. Its also a 4:1 ratio so it should have plenty of power. I hope the wife will give me a pass tomorrow so I can start on the front a arms. I found a link on mis alignement washers and weld in bungs. I cant believe what I got them for. When you buy in bulk they are so cheap its scary

    http://www.midwestcontrol.com/

    Well thats it for now I will update tomorow if I can.
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    #9
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    ya it would be expensive his way, bearings at best price are 125.00 each, and there is 8 of them. i am using a cassette, but my own way, i am using 1 3/8 21 spline ag shaft, and i am also now going with u joint d shafts, and i am 90 percent sure i can get a yoke that will slide on the spline, 275.00 for the axles pair, 1310 u joints, i cant buy 930 cvs and axles that cheap. you may want to research the jackshaft idea tho, as you could mount your reverse gear on the first driven shaft and not be way under the car. Just my opinion, and also we havent heard from our kid there with the saw horse table legs. 8)
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelomen
    The plans are top notch. They are the best I have seen so far (and i have every set available on the market so far). It took a bit to get used to the metric system again but now that I have used it I like it better. The drive train i am going a different route. The cassette design he has is pretty sweet but I dont want to try and get a hold of a bunch of BMW parts and spend a ton on laser or water cutting. i am just going with a chain drive and rear bearing carrier. Plus I did not like the idea of the keyed jack shaft in his design I thought it might be the weak link. I do like the fact that it lowers your driveline and gives you about 5 more inches of travel but oh well. I think I am going to try and fabricate the reverse option starter motor like Yoshi has on his first car. I like the idea it is there just in case. I am just not sure what he used for a gear on the rear. It looks like a flex plate off a sb chevy. I found a starter motor that is only 8 lbs and should do the trick just right. Its also a 4:1 ratio so it should have plenty of power. I hope the wife will give me a pass tomorrow so I can start on the front a arms. I found a link on mis alignement washers and weld in bungs. I cant believe what I got them for. When you buy in bulk they are so cheap its scary

    http://www.midwestcontrol.com/

    Well thats it for now I will update tomorow if I can.

    THANK YOU , THANK YOU......I have been looking for that website for a month or sooooo............I need to order new threaded bungs for the rear trailing arms.......... :lol: :lol: :lol:
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