R16 Shotgun Project

[gibberogill]

Hi All,

Newby here. I recently broke my neck and am currently convalescing. My neurosurgeon told me ATV's are definitely OUT OF THE QUESTION!!! Dang. Since I've had nothing but time on my hands I have done quite a bit of research on minibuggies. I thought driving a vehicle with a long-travel suspension is what would still allow me to enjoy the outdoors safely (LOL). Plus, having a track width wider than a 4-wheeler would prevent me from going into areas where I would get into trouble (which hasn't been hard for me to do).

I've researched two-seater minibuggies. From what I can tell, the Rorty R16 shotgun should fit the bill nicely (any other suggestions out there?). I have a JD2 model 4 bender and "the beast" notcher coming. I have also recently bought a Millermatic synchrowave 200 tig welder and have a Millermatic 250 mig welder on loan from a brother-in-law.

So much for background information. What I need from all of you pros out there has to do with metal fab equipment. There is a local HVAC company bankruptcy auction where they are auctioning off brakes, notchers, benders, lockformers, roll formers and edgers. Do I need any of this stuff for doing body work? Is any of this stuff good to have around? I'd appreciate any educated input on this topic. I will keep everyone updated on progress as it is made and make it as detailed as is reasonable. Thanks in advance.

Gary G.

[Gene]

Welcome to MBN Gary!

Rorty's R16 will be a terrific car. See the attachment for components available from MBN member Kludge (Frank).

Sounds like youhave a good start on tools. Yes, get more tools. If you can get deals on a break, shear, bead roller, notcher, etc. then scarf them up.

Where are you? I need a notcher and 28 inch shear. Could use a bead roller too.

Good luck and welcome to the safety of a roll cage!

[gibberogill]

I tend to overbuild projects. No one likes to move the furniture I have built. When it comes to frame design, is there any advantage or disadvantage to using 0.120 wall thickness DOM tubing versus the 0.095? I thought a heavier buggy would absorb the bumps better due to the forces of inertia. I don't plan on driving like a bat out of purgatory.

Also, I have read a bit on using the Ecotec 2.2 motor with a FNR and CVT. I like that concept as my wife will more than likely drive this shoty as much as I will. Starting with the motor and ending with the hub, what are the exact parts as well as modifications needed to accomplish this type of drive? Thanks guys.

[Gene]

Read Standfast's first build for information.

095 for most frame structure. Some recommend .120 for cage and suspension components. Others will suggest .120 chromo for suspension.

The car will weigh enough to give a great ride. Either Fox air or Fox coil over air will do the job well. The latter allows tons of adjustment, more than just Fox air shocks.

[K-fab]

There's no need to up the size of the tubing to .120 wall. Rorty designed the cars very well and has used what is probably the best tubing for weight and strength.

The R16 is supposed to be a very good ride. I've not experienced one, but there have been many builds of them here on the site. Do a little searching about and you should be able to find all sorts of good info.

Welcome to the site, too.

[TutTech]

Like others have said there are many builds of the R-16. Baja brothers did two of them
and they turned out great. They even race theirs down in Mexico and love them. They
have nothing but good things to say about them.

I use .120 because I race and it's the law.
But in my cars only the suspension mounts, shock mounts, tranny rails etc. are .120 and the rest
of my cars are .095 and I have never had the .095 crack or had any problems with the .095 and
my car probably weighs a ton. No seriously about a ton.

As for the parts you asked it is up to you if you are going to do your own body etc. then it
sounds like you might use some of those pieces of equipment. But for frame building and
general building I use my sander/notcher more than any tool next to my welder and chop saw.
So really up to you and what you want to do or have done for you. Sorry not much help.


Welcome to the site and nice to see you asking questions and getting input that is always a
great idea especially with all the very smart and talented builders on this site. I am impressed
daily by all the awesome creations I see on here.

I look forward to seeing your build and please be careful with your neck and don't over do it.

[gibberogill]

I guess you guys are right. I'll stick with the design specifications. I should have known the R16 would be engineered well as I just got done with the framing for my table. The plans specified 2x3x 0.25 rectangular tubing!!! Way over kill. Yes, I used what was specified and then added two extra cross-members just for good measure. I'll get pics as soon as I sweep out the garage.

[gibberogill]

Hey, does anyone have an idea how to attach the MDF to the quarter-inch wall tubing I used. I'd prefer not having to drill and tap each hole. This step wasn't specified in the plans. I had thought about welding 1/8" tabs where I could use self-drilling countersunk screws. Using a flat plate steel top is cost-prohibitive if I am to keep within my budget. Thanks for your suggestions.

[standfast]

You can just use self drilling countersink screws with a fine thread. You may still want to pre-drill though if you have issues with cheap screws breaking. Just make sure the drill tips on the screws are as long or longer than your metal thickness.

[Montanaminirail]

I used Lath screws and they worked great. They are self drilling screws with a 1/4 drill tip and are readily availible at Lowes. Just need to countersink the MDF for the screw head.