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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #11
    Junior Member
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    Here is what I came up with for a work table. I used a piece of MDF 5'x10'x0.75". I also pre-drilled and chamfered all the holes prior to screwing it down with torx metal screws. Here are a few pics of the table and the screws I finally went with. Thanks for all of your suggestions.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #12
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    Oh, by the way, here are a few pics of my mig and tig welders, my JD2 bender and "the beast" notcher. I left the last two feet of my table to be used for attaching the notcher and for other jigs.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #13
    Admin Gene's Avatar
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    That notcher is a beast. Where did you get it, how much and what angles can it achieve?
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #14
    Millenium Member plkracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene View Post
    That notcher is a beast. Where did you get it, how much and what angles can it achieve?

    It's a JD2 beast notcher. Van Sant Enterprises carries it for a price. I think it can do 50-60 degrees? A real plus is that you can notch in the center of a bend, say if you are doing a arms and want to put a bung in the middle of a 180 degree bend.
    Proud owner of a two seat pucker-mobile. Funco inspired mini buggy powered by a Busa. Giving out free rides to anyone brave enough.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #15
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    I thought I would display a couple of pics of what I accomplished today. I drew the plans for the lower frame on the table. I will put cleats along the marks every 12 inches or so. I hope this will allow me to know whether or not I am bending each tube correctly. I will then tac weld this bottom frame together. Then, I will repeat the process for the middle and top frames. I really like how it looks.
    Having a smoking area in a restaurant makes as much sense as having a peeing area in a swimming pool.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #16
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    Well, its been a while since I last posted. I got all of my tubing and started the first of three frame layers. I needed a piece of 1.5 x 0.120 DOM for the transom tube. I only had chromemoly in this size. After researching a bit on this site as well as a few welding sites, I found that I could attach the DOM tubing to the chrome moly tubing by TIG welding them using ER70S-2 filler rod. I tacked them together using a mig welder and finished with the TIG. One of the pictures below is of one of my welds on that tube.

    This was my first experience using the JD2 Model 4 bender. After figuring out the initial starting degrees and then the number of springback degrees, the bending went pretty well. The one problem I have had was keeping everything level. I ordered a digital angle finder from Van Sant with the mounting bracket. It should be here tomorrow and I hope that will make the process that much easier. I just have to figure out how to use it.

    It might not be apparent from the pictures, but the frame appears to have about a 1/4" rocker from bow to stern caused by the unequal heating of the tubing. Will this be easy to take out when I put the second layer on?

    At this point I had read how Standfast had changed the framing around the Ecotec motor between the first and second layers. Thanks for your advice and sending the pics. The appropriate changes will be made.

    This weekend, I plan on working on the second layer and the cross-bracing between the two layers. I'll update you all then.
    Having a smoking area in a restaurant makes as much sense as having a peeing area in a swimming pool.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #17
    Junior Member
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    Oh, by the way, I contacted Frank Berry of Minybuggysupply.com (Kludge). I have received the laser cut parts for the R16 shotgun II. I am extremely impressed as to the workmanship/quality of these parts. Everything fits together precisely and as you can see from the second picture below, there is little to no work to get these parts to fit together well.

    I was so impressed that I also ordered the machined parts kit. He was extremely amiable to talk with and was willing to be a resource person to help make this project a rewarding and successful endeavor. THANKS FRANK!!!
    Having a smoking area in a restaurant makes as much sense as having a peeing area in a swimming pool.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #18
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    I wouldn't weld the joints like that until you have both layers and bracing done. Just tack it all together at points that can easily be ground off so you can take the tubes apart. Only exception is that you may want to weld the joint that gets coverd by the next tube. That should help eliminate the warping.
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #19
    Senior Member N8ball's Avatar
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    Yeah. Ditto on what Dunerocket said. Tack the whole chassis together before welding it. Then when you do weld it up, only weld a 1/2" max per joint at a time. Move around doing little 1/2" welds on different intersections. If you weld each tube all the way around at one time you WILL have warping to deal with. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way to deal with it is to start over. If it were me(and trust me, it was me trying to force parts together) I would cut the bow tubes off and try again. I had alignment issues with the front end of my Shotgun, and ended up cutting the mid layer apart, and all the bracing out, and cutting the bow tubes off of the lower layer. Frustrating? Yes, but a little tweaking and I got it straight. I thought about the time and money I was commiting to this project, and it made sense to do it right, so that the end product would reflect the investment. Just my $.02.
    Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.- Ferris Bueler
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    Re: R16 Shotgun Project
    #20
    Millenium Member standfast's Avatar
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    Just clamp your bottom layer flat to the table before attaching the 2 layers to help straighten them out. Leave it clamped down for the rest of the frame build up. Just FYI, if you just tack on the sides of the tubes not on the top and bottoms you won't bow the frame. This leaves it relaxed so you can cinch it all down to the table with a bunch of clamps to tack it. Keep in mind, the worse the fit up is (gaps to weld up) the more warping you will get so it pays to get the notches as best as you possibly can, even if it means scrapping a piece and starting over.
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