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    Overflow from a project removal...
    #1
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    When you get it done I'll swing down and test it out for you *8)
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    #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SoCal, USA
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    836
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    For a small fee...of course!
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    #3
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    You know I might stop by to see how it is and check out your plans.

    Do you have all the tools you need? I have a bender, welder, and tube notcher. (well the bender and tube notcher will be here soon) so if you need some help let me know..
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    #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugpac
    yup have all the tools except cnc lathe and cnc mill,and waterjet need one of them yet to,lol. did you purchase bender already?
    Yeah, they're in the mail. Said it would be a couple weeks before they get here. The stand arrived yesterday, it seems to be a pretty heavy duty piece...
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    #5
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    I hope you have alot of braces under the table. I built my first table out of steel with 1 inch particle board on top. There was 2x2 1/4 inch angle every 1.5 foot and after I started getting some weight on there the table started to dip where the tubes were on the board. I built a heavier duty table and now have 2 layers of 1 inch mdf board......
    www.SinisterSandSports.com
    918-521-3736
    Yes, i'm on facebook clicky clicky.................

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    #6
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    I also put aluminium c channel type pieces around the mdf board so I have a straight line to measure from......
    www.SinisterSandSports.com
    918-521-3736
    Yes, i'm on facebook clicky clicky.................

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    #7
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    Your also putting your load across the area of your shoes. The rail tube sits on the table and is round. It only has about an 1/8 of it's diameter applying pressure on the table in the form of a long crease which is where the problem can come up. You will also be putting a motor and anything else you install on the tabel as well to make sure it is all level. The added weight puts the load on the 1/8 inch bars running along the bottom. I thought my table was more than adequate but I still had to add anothr layer of particle board to keep the top flat. My table frame is pretty damn strong so I couldn't believe it was able to bow the wood between the braces. If the table is stationary, you might want to run some more braces to the floor from the middle section. IMO.
    www.SinisterSandSports.com
    918-521-3736
    Yes, i'm on facebook clicky clicky.................

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    #8
    Senior Member bajatex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    San Marcos, CA
    Posts
    376
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    Bugpac,

    It sounds like you are going to make this kind of set up for your rear end.
    I have 6 of these units you see here. If you are interested in one maybe we could work something out. I have the billet bearing block with bearings, splined axles that go between each output flange, and billet crush washers.
    you could buy the output flanges and sprockets yourself. I was going to use a starter motor for reverse on this set up as well. I have around $400.00 in these parts. It would give you a great jumpstart to your project.

    bajatex
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    #9
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    what bugpac has described is the drive cassette that is supplied with the R6 plans from rorty. here is a pic from bob's site.

    alot of pics can also be seen here,

    http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ ... rowse/1e9c
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    bajatex, do you have a picture of your final drive?
    #10
    Senior Member Kludge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    West of Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    505
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    What drives the CV flanges?
    Kludge is pronounced clue-j (with a short J as in Just)
    You know you are blessed when your wife loves you, she understands your need for a shop with good tools
    and she wants you to build her a Minibuggy too!
    Yes, someday I'll get my website up www.minibuggysupply.com (Anybody know a good Web site designer/graphic artist?)
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