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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #11
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I took a quick look and saw one of these units on ebay. I would love to see how you are using these in kids ATV's.
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #12
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I'm finally back to Step 2 - Install primary jackshaft.

    Since the cylinder jug angles backwards, I decided to make a jackshaft mount that parallels the angle of the cylinder jug. That moves the base away from the future secondary jackshaft and gives me some room to work. I will add a rear brace after-the-fact when I see how everything aligns.

    The mount is 2-inch square tubing with a 1/8" wall. I'm using some garden variety two-bolt flange-mount bearings to support the jackshaft.

    This setup is Plan A. Plan B is to cut the 2" tubing in half lengthwise, move the right-half outboard and open up the middle for mounting the 10 tooth sprocket.After mounting the engine and jackshaft together and setting the assembly into the ATV frame, it's pretty clear that the primary sprocket needs to be in the center, to allow clearance for the secondary jackshaft and for the rear sprocket to sit a little to the right, in alignment with the rear sprocket on the axle.

    The pictures tell most of the story.


    As an aside, yes, the driven clutch is mounted correctly. The spring-side faces inward, not outward as GoPowerSports and others would have you believe. They're aping the setup for the Model 30 CVT, but the Model 30 uses an asymmetric belt and is designed as a kit to easily upgrade a minibike or gokart from a clutch to a CVT. The model 40 is a different animal and has a symmetric belt. Same as a Comet Duster clutch, Polaris CVT, etc.


    IMG_2482.jpg IMG_2483.jpg IMG_2484.jpg IMG_2485.jpg IMG_2488.jpg
    Last edited by darwinpayne2000; 11-19-2021 at 01:44 AM.
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #13
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    The last two days have mostly been sweating the details. The Comet belt for the clutches finally arrived and, when I installed it, the amount of slack was about a 1/4 inch too much. So, cut the tack welds on the primary clutch mount, move it back 1/4 inch, then reweld. Similar story with the trailing arm. After I installed the rear axle, something looked off. It turns out that the rear trailing arm isn't actually symmetrical. I measured the original swingarm and there was a 3/8-inch offset to the right. So, cut the tack welds on the trailing arm, move the assembly to the right 3/8 inch, then reweld.

    The secondary jackshaft is stubbed in. I have it hanging between the two bolts holding the trailing arms in place. After staring, measuring, staring again and measuring again for an eternity, I think I have a plan.

    There's no room on the right-hand side to run a chain between the primary and secondary jackshafts, so I will cut the existing jackshaft mount in two, leave the left-half as-is and move the right-half over to the edge of the engine mounting plate. That will open up the middle for running the chain between the jackshafts. The alignment of the rear axle sprocket puts the front sprocket fairly close to the secondary jackshaft. A 10-tooth sprocket will fit without any issues, so that confirms a 3.7:1 rear drive ratio. The front ratio can be anything I want, but I plan on using a 10-tooth sprocket on the primary shaft and a 23-tooth sprocket on the secondary. Multiply it out and that will give me an 8.5:1 final drive ratio. I can go up or down from there, depending on how the engine performs.


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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #14
    Duck in a Tux jimmyg's Avatar
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    Make amazing progress.
    All dressed up and waiting for the beer to arrive.
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #15
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Step 3. Attach engine mounting plate to ATV frame.

    I'm mostly ready to finish Step 3, but I'm leaving everything loose right now so I can have room to work on the secondary jackshaft.

    I made some weldment tabs for the front of the engine plate. They are slotted, so I can slide the plate forwards or backwards to tension the primary chain.

    I know I'm preaching to the choir here, but some of these "simple" tasks take an inordinate amount of time and brackets/tabs are the worst offenders. I have spent hours fashioning brackets that are just the right width, just the right length, with the holes in just the right spots. Then, I started over because one of those three measurements was off!

    Same story here. Using the time-tested "measure once, cut twice" method, I fashioned a pair of weldment tabs with hand drilled/hand filed slots that looked absolutely perfect. I laid them in place and realized that the tabs needed to be 1/4 inch wider to put the slots in the right spot to clear the frame. Arrgghh!!! Start over.

    The tabs and slots are in place on the engine plate. I also split the primary jackshaft mount in half and it's tack-welded in place. The base plate for the secondary jackshaft is also tack-welded and ready for me to fabricate the secondary jackshaft mount. I'm thinking that it will look similar to the primary jackshaft mount. Aesthetics.

    IMG_2492.jpg IMG_2493.jpg IMG_2494.jpg IMG_2495.jpg
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #16
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Step 4. Attach secondary jackshaft to ATV frame

    The secondary jackshaft was fairly easy to figure out, but I did make the mistake of cutting it a little too short. I could have started again from scratch, but that didn't sound like fun. I ended up making a "wing" bracket for the top to hold it in place. I also added rear support brackets to the primary jackshaft. I did a final alignment check with the chains, etc and everything looks good. Getting close to welding everything up.

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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #17
    Duck in a Tux jimmyg's Avatar
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    Loving it. Thing is going to be nuts fun.
    All dressed up and waiting for the beer to arrive.
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #18
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'm in the latter-half of the 80/20 rule, where the last 20 percent of the project seems to be taking 80 percent of the time. Welding up the swing arm and jackshafts took for-e-e-e-ver. Lots of small welds on the trailing arms and lots of brackets. The final add to the project was a pair of stop-bolts to keep the engine plate from creeping back after I tension the chain and tighten the plate bolts.

    The final two steps before liftoff are the intake and exhaust.

    The exhaust will be a problem. On a camp cruiser, you don't have any plastics to deal with, so you can just run the exhaust pipe straight back or, route it however you please. With the ATV plastics on this kids ATV, you need to keep the exhaust as far away as possible from the plastic. That's tough, when the exhaust port is in the back and up high. You also have the CVT belt and clutches directly below the exhaust port, so you're really constrained. Realistically, I may have to cut out part of the ATV plastic to get the clearance I need.

    I started prototyping the exhaust, but it's angled too high. I need to bring it down a couple of inches.

    IMG_2501.jpg IMG_2502.jpg IMG_2503.jpg
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #19
    Duck in a Tux jimmyg's Avatar
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    Can't you just run it straight out the back beside the the rear shock?
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    Re: Re-engine Chinese 110 with Predator 212
    #20
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    There are two issues with running the exhaust straight back and to the side of the rear shock. The battery sits in the middle space, just aft of the engine. That is not an insurmountable obstacle. I can move the battery to the right-rear. The bigger issue is the heat. The plastics would tend to trap the heat underneath the rider and make it uncomfortable and might also melt the plastic. Better to run it to the side where the exhaust can radiate most of the heat to the air.
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