Thread: Panther rebuild

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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #11
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    That'd be awesome thanks! I'm heading over to the shop now to take a look at some buggy measurements and fix a Ford Model-A starter that petered out on me a few weeks ago.
    Opinion on 930 CV stuff (F150 shafts) and dual H-arms with KLR power? Too much rotating mass?
    Dune 500
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #12
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Drive parts - no, probably not too much mass and worth the durability. If you can get the articulation out of Type II they'll save on weight/rotating mass and be able to handle the power.
    Sand is for fast cars
    Dirt is for fast drivers



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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #13
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    Thanks Kfab, I'll keep 930's on the table then as an option.
    Started actual progress by cutting out one bar so I could mock up the existing trailing arm (it's about 20" long pivot to axle). I don't have a swingarm/trailing arm 3D calculator so a quick question. Is there an ideal angle to mount trailing arms to get to 10" travel with zero plunge with approx 8" wide (flange to flange) center carrier? Or a calculator someone could point me to? Also pulled the upright apart to measure dimensions and see what I'm working with. Width between the rear wheels is approx 48" so I should have decent space for the drive (each rear tire is 11" wide).
    Last edited by Calibuggy; 05-12-2021 at 01:49 PM.
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #14
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I just sent you the Panther plans. I tried to take a quick look, but each page is an individual .pdf, so it's slow scrolling. If I'm reading the plans correctly, he uses a 30 degree angle for mounting the trailing arms. From what I remember, the Type 1 CV's would handle 8 inches of travel and he said that you could push it to 10 inches, so his plans should be correct.

    I collected a few pictures some years ago. You may have seen this, but this is a green Panther with modified trailing arms, a snowmobile engine and a Comet differential. The other Panther is using trailing arms similar to what my brother-in-law built.
    liquid cooled rearend.jpg
    Green Panther - Trailing Arm.jpggreen snowmobile rearend.jpg
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #15
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    Thanks so much Darwin! I'll be looking those over and checking things. I came up with 27 degrees? Close enough? And that angle is to eliminate CV plunge correct? I'm hoping to find a few deals on the T1 stubs w/T2 flanges, and a pair of T2 flanges to build my own center section. Not sure which rotor and sprocket to use yet but I really like light commonly available off the shelf parts.
    I have seen the green one before, very clean. Looks like the blue one has beefed up arms and turning brakes.
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #16
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Yes, the angle is to move the CV axle through a smooth arc to avoid plunge, instead of simply moving the axle up-and-down and creating a bunch of plunge. The exact angle should be spelled out in the plans I sent, but 27 degrees sounds really close.

    For the rear sprocket, I've been using azusaparts.com You can get #520 aluminum sprockets with a variety of bolt patterns and number of teeth. They'll also make it a split sprocket for a nominal fee. It's the most convenient site I've found to get an off-the-shelf sprocket with the features I need. They also have a lot of other parts that might be handy for your buggy.

    I don't have a source for the center spool. I was planning on using a VW differential, but that's not a good fit for most buggies. However, good luck finding a splined shaft for the spool. I took a quick look and didn't find one.
    Last edited by darwinpayne2000; 05-13-2021 at 11:53 AM.
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #17
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    Got it.

    Not bad prices on sprockets. The center carrier I have is from Short Sand Cars, and is custom built; sadly they are out of business now, but the bearings do have parts numbers on them and they already have 930 CV flanges bolted to them as well as a rotor and I even have the 4 piston caliper with decent pads in them.

    An idea would be; since I'm trying to go smaller/lighter than 930s, I wonder if I could have my 40 spline center carrier shaft resplined to accept the Type 2 flanges? Or if I don't mind the extra 1"-ish length, bore out and center weld the T2 flange inside the 930 flange (leaving enough room to get the retaining bolt and washer out). Bit of work for that though... but it saves the choice of going 930 in future if I ever need (unlikely) but I do already have the carrier.

    Or, I can make my own from scratch, using either T1 to T2 conversion transmission flanges (and can turn a little off the snout to fit available bearings, or just use a T2 snout. Anyone know if the outer diameter of T1 and T2 CV flange snouts are the same? Sure seems like a bunch more work going down a size or two from the 930's, but I'd feel like it'd be more fun to drive with less power wasted on spinning monster CVs.
    Dune 500
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #18
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    Edit:
    Hopefully this builder doesn't mind me linking his pictures but on page 18 about 1/2 way down.

    Mini Trail Buggy Build

    He used 15 spline x 1" shaft from surplus center with matching splined mini-hubs welded to the CV's. Would something like that be sufficient for 50hp with target weight 800lbs including driver and fuel?

    I can essentially "trade" VW CV-flange splines for the weld-on mini-hub splines that slips right onto center carrier shaft by cutting off existing splined section and welding new 1-3/8" 21-splined mini hub on.

    Where exactly should I be measuring the "CV pivot point" to fab H-arms? Right smack in the middle of each exterior cage?


    Thanks for all the help; learning as I go.
    Last edited by Calibuggy; 05-17-2021 at 02:32 AM.
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #19
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    Made some progress today. Pulled VFR motor and cut a few tubes off.
    0C45A440-FA36-4FB9-BD8C-134D9E368912.jpg
    Dune 500
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    Re: Panther rebuild
    #20
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    Good stuff.
    All dressed up and waiting for the beer to arrive.
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