JMperformance Badlands buggy ST3 thread

[kustomfab2003]

So a couple of things.

1. Yes you need to use the same contact tip size, if not the current is not being passed into the wire as it should be

2. Your travel speed looks slow (only by the picture) and what thickness is the material trying to be welded? That looks like normal square stock or is it tubing? You would see the same issues with a industrial welder at the settings you are trying if indeed that solid bar square stock.

3. The wire diameter you are using is .023, basically for sheet metal and cannot carry much current. You will probably need to go up to .030" 0r .8mm if you expect to see any favorable results. Be sure you aren't dragging the weld use about a 10-15 degree push angle and stay on the leading edge of the puddle.

4. Since I work for Miller I am a bit more biased. I can say that the import welders are closing the gap on technology, but not reliability or duty cycle (not to mention outside sources of input power etc). Since the later probably aren't as important to you at this point in time, get what you can afford.

[Matt]

Looked a little dirty, how much gas are you using? Argon co2 mix?

[Kuma]

I am using 0.6 solid wire from Lincoln electric. The highest my welder runs is 120 amps, that is what I was running.

could the contact tip be an issue? I am using a 0.8 tip with 0.6 wire, should I buy some 0.6 contact tips?

I linked some pictures of the weld:Attachment 37190

With that thick of metal you are going to need more heat and or V notch

[JMperformance]

I have two welders. a light duty 120v MiG welder, and a 120v/240v Hobart DC inverter.

Could I use the stick welder running on 240v to weld some of the most structural welds of the buggy? if so, what electrodes should I be using?

here is a link to the Hobart:

https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipm...te-160i-m30147

[kustomfab2003]

If you are going to stick weld it then your best option would be 3/32 7018 rod. Make sure the weld area is clean, you wont need a lot of amperage probably 85-95... depending on joint fitment and tube thickness... If you aren't familiar with 7018 and the slag pool then lean more towards a 7014. 70 is the tensile strength, the one indicates all position and the 4 is the flux/slag composition and current type.

[JMperformance]

What do you do if the rust is inside of your tubing on your sand rail? My project St3 has holes in it for the flooring. When you look through the holes it seems as there is surface rust on the inside of the tubing.

I linked some pictures:
rust hole.jpgrust hole 2.jpg

[JMperformance]

Hi MBN community,

over the summer of 2020 I acquired a badlands buggy st3 frame. Recently i just started to get on to working on it and the more I dive into the frame the more issues arrive. Here is a list of the issues that I have been contemplating with(and possible solutions:

1) the previous owner who was building the frame did an absolute TERRIBLE job on welding the underside of the frame. I should have looked before I bought it.

solutions: grind all of the old welds off and then re-weld the joints between the metal.

2) the inside of the frame has rust. I'm not sure how much but its there. there is a hole in the square tubing for the flooring to go on the frame rails of the buggy. when you peer inside it seems as if there is a ton of surface rust. In one of the holes you can even see some old welding wire that must have broken off. I know the amount of rust in the square tubing but I am definitely unsure about the amount in the circular tubing that makes up the cage.

solutions: Get a can of rust exhibitor and spray it into the holes.

3) metal quality. Earlier today I was starting to re welding the underside of the buggy. I was running my stick welder at a fairly low voltage. (I think 75) and it burned straight through the metal. it did not do this in any of the previous welds that i did before it.

solutions: patch the holes I make and just keep re-welding. (unsure)

All in all, I really don't want to build a buggy that's going to look nice but on the inside be really crappy. do you guys think I should continue with this project or sell it and start from scratch. Would these solutions be worth my time and effort?

Please let me know,
JMperformance

[XJZ33]

My personal opinion on this (I'm not a materials expert) but looks more like surface rust to me. I'd guess it's pretty localize to where any water could get in, i.e. at the holes or incomplete welds, and not everywhere inside. Once its welded up it should rust anymore anyways as there has to keep having oxygen present to keep producing iron oxide... could probably put some paint or light oil in the holes and move it around to coat the inside before welding. Others here probably have way more experience than me but I'd probably not just give it up on the chassis. Good luck with whatever you do.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

[JMperformance]

I've decided I'm going to just use the frame as a learning platform and just build it. Luckily I am buying a Hobart 140 MiG which should make this process a whole lot easier.