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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #31
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    I did this on my current buggy. Then I realized the valve stem was on the inside of he rim. I had to change it back.
    HARD WORK PAY$
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #32
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanDa_ View Post
    Was wondering, on the rims, could I flip them around, like instead of the 3" backspacing on the outside, like normal, could I put it on the inside, backwards basically, to shorten the trailing arm axle part? or could I cut it and weld it back with more offset, like 2+6? (2" being from the hub in, so outer rim, them 2 inches in is hub? I think I explained that right?)

    Thx
    If they’re spun aluminum rims like a Douglas you can flip them around and relocate the valve stem with you’re friend Mr. Drill and either weld the old hole shut or find a mechanical plug like you’d use for a leak down test, but small in diam.

    Get your offset figured out and overall tire diam you plan on using decided for the front. It affects scrub radius (keep it between .25 and .5”) which directly affects steering input power. The higher the scrub radius, the more feedback you’ll get through the steering wheel and the more strength required to steer which leads to fatigue.
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #33
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    So I've decided to model the front suspension from a trophy kart, seems easy design, and looks strong, I mean it must be if its a trophy kart hitting 80+ mph. What do you think? Anything to change, add, or anything that could be made better? Going to use 1.25'' x 0.120" DOM Tubing, Heims on top inside, Bushings on bottom inside and Uniball's on both outside. (In the pic thats how they would be mounted)

    EBKA-ArmDesign1.PNG

    Thx
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #34
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanDa_ View Post
    So Inner Bushings, Something Like this? https://www.4wd.com/p/synergy-manufa...-FSVG-4300-125
    I believe comes with everything, Tube, Bushings, Bolt and Nut, Not bad for $10.99

    Thx
    How do these things work exactly? can you remove the rubber part of the thing and weld it? Or do you buy a pipe with the ID the same as it's OD and slip it in?
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #35
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    Yep, tack it in so you get it in the right place, remove the inner sleeve, poly bushings and weld the outer sleeve in place.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJZ33 View Post
    Yep, tack it in so you get it in the right place, remove the inner sleeve, poly bushings and weld the outer sleeve in place.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    So what size did you end up using? You know of Anywhere to get dimensions?
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #37
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    I used that same size as the 4wd link (1.25" O.D.) for my front A-arms.

    I used larger bushings like these from Barnes 4wd for my rear semi-trailing arms. https://www.barnes4wd.com/DOM-Sleeve...ole_p_891.html

    The dimensions are in the listing of width, bolt size, OD etc.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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    Re: Lil Ripper the EBK
    #38
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    Yes, the Dimensions are listed on the website, It's 1.25 x .120 Tubing, uses a 3/8" Bolt, and mounts at 2" Wide I believe. You would weld the tube (Without Bushing) to the A-Arm, then put the bushings in, bolt the mount tabs on the ends (or pre-cut plates if your using that) and tack on the mounts, Unbolt and weld fully, or with plated mounts, skip welding the tabs and you just bolt it up, and that's it.
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