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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #81
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    Agreed, most of my welds need more attention as I was just trying to get it together to make sure it worked before burning it home.
    Now that the shifter is working, I have shifted back to the motor and today I got it started up! I had my '89 lincoln fuel pump in backwards so once I flipped it around and it would push fuel, I set the pressure regulator to 40psi and tried firing it up. It coughed and sputtered a bit trying to burn thru the cobwebs and old varnished fuel in the fuel rail, but it eventually came to life. My 18 yr old heard it and came running outside (nope can't get him to help), but it was pretty satisfying to hear it run. The dash even came on and worked properly after repairing some of the wiring to it. I'll have to do something about the fuel light to get it to stay off though.

    I see the dash has a temp listed (I assume the temp is for the coolant) and an oil can indicator light. Is the oil indicator visible because it's not sensing oil pressure, or does it flash when the oil pressure is low? I'm just wondering if I need to replace the sensor... thanks!

    Just found this in the manual (should have looked there first). I have the red light on "A" but the LCD "B" wasnt flickering. If it does, that means no pressure I assume...

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    Last edited by XJZ33; 11-13-2020 at 02:00 AM.
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #82
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    I know you were having some wiring troubles and I had a similar issue. In my case there was a single wire that went to the oil pressure sensor that wasnt wired in and once I wired it back into the dash no issues. I tried looking at the wiring diagram you posted but it wasn't the whole thing. If possible can you post the entire image ?

    That's where I would start before replacing anything
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #83
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Wiring... The hardest part of getting things right!
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #84
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    Here is the original diagram showing the oil pressure switch and that it only goes directly to the speedo.
    I also wired up the new fuze/relay block today that I will have to add into the original wire harness to keep it all safe from burning up after much of it was removed from it previously.

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #85
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    It appears that if the switch is closed, it completes the circuit and lights up the indicator on the dash (instruments/speedo - thing you look at that tells you stuff...)

    Soooo..... If the engine is running I wonder, does it open the switch? Seems backwards but???

    Can you check the continuity of the switch without the engine active?

    Just a meter on the lead out of the switch and the body should tell you if it's open or not.

    Now if it is open (you get no beep from your meter) and you turn the engine over, does it change and you get a beep (close the circuit)? Seems like an odd setup if it does - as you'll have to crank a minute before the engine builds pressure.

    Just thinking out loud, trying to help get a direction.
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #86
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    good you got it running and even got the gauge cluster working. in the fuel level, if you locate the wires that go to the original sensor you can either put a resistor in and make it think there is gas in it ir actuallt get a level sensor if you have a way of putting it in the tank and hooking it up.
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #87
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    So I measured the resistance from the oil pressure sensor to ground with the engine off (its 237 ohms) and then I measured it again with the engine running (it jumped between 7-9 M ohms) so I need to do some reading in the manual to see what that means.
    I got a new fuze and relay block wired into the harness as the OEM one was missing. I moved the ECM and a majority of the harness into a plastic ammo can I bought from Harbor freight, which is where I mounted the fuze block. I'm using it to help keep water out of the electronics as a JIC.


    I mounted the battery up front to try and distribute the weight a little better as so much of it is out back already.


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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #88
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    Dumb question: wouldn't you want the weight biased in the rear to aid with traction/jumping? More weight in the rear would allow more power to the ground without slipping the rear tires. Also, I've noticed a lot of buggies/prerunners nose dive a lot while jumping so wouldn't more weight in the rear help with that as well?
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #89
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aschn View Post
    Dumb question: wouldn't you want the weight biased in the rear to aid with traction/jumping? More weight in the rear would allow more power to the ground without slipping the rear tires. Also, I've noticed a lot of buggies/prerunners nose dive a lot while jumping so wouldn't more weight in the rear help with that as well?
    You can do more with suspension tuning and throttle control. Closer to 50/50 and a chassis that has the ability to move in the suspension will give better handling and such. The weight will move fore/aft with brake & throttle.
    Most nose dives are due to feathering off just a hair. Keep the fun pedal buried until the tears are off the ground.
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by K-fab View Post
    Keep the fun pedal buried until the tears are off the ground.
    I know itís a typo.....but it works!
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