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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #61
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    I changed my mind on fuel line routing and placement of my fuel pump. I think this will be much more tidy and keep it further away from the hot exhaust. I still need to add a fuel filter and have ordered one for a Ford Ranger as I have a Ranger and could verify the fittings would work (5/16" on both sides of the filter). I also spent most of the day building a frame tie-in for the motor that can be removed so if I ever have to pull the motor it will simplify the job.

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #62
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    I've been off this week and spending the days out in the shop working on the buggy. (Not a bad way to spend a few days of leave) I managed to build a gas pedal assembly and have put in some diagonal braces behind the seat as well as a few more strategically placed ones. Not too much progress on the wiring yet but I hope to tackle it soon.

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #63
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    The pedals are sweet - nice, simple, clean execution.
    What are the nuts (bolts?) at the top of the brake and clutch, just under the frame bar?
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #64
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    They are carriage bolts that I'm using for hard limiters for the pedals. This way I can adjust the pedal positions, how far towards the seat they swing, and how far away they can be pushed. I wanted to prevent putting too much force into the throttle linkage or into the clutch arm. These long pedals have more leverage than a simple twist throttle or standard clutch lever for a bike. I wanted to protect the motor/tranny.
    The stops for the throttle are a little different than the clutch/brake pedals, but for the same purpose. I still need to work out how to attach the cables to it though.

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #65
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Cool.
    Very innovative.
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #66
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    Was planning on using a paddle shifter setup to shift this thing. Not doing any kind of interrupting ignition like others, just a standard push in the clutch and shift. This if close to what I was thinking but will probably have to rework it some if I use this (too cluttered looking).

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #67
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    So I've started to tackle the wiring on this motor. I got this motor for Kuma here on the board, so it was previously in a buggy he bought then replaced with a busa. I've identified the locations where original installer spliced in the resistors for the anti-theft, TO sensor, and the GP switch. I dont see the point of eliminating the GP switch as it would be nice to have a dash light showing when in neutral. Is there something I'm missing about deleting the GP?


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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #68
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    So to explain where I'm at after today I need to give you some background on what isn't in my wiring any longer (how I inherited this wire harness).
    I dont have a few obvious things like any lights at all, pair control solenoid, gear position switch, ignition switch, side stand switch, or any handle bar switches, speed sensor, fuze block, clutch switch, TO sensor, cooling fan relay or fan.
    I do have:
    1. A 100 ohm resistor between the O/Y and O/W wires (anti-theft ignition).
    2. A 6.8K ohm resistor between the P and B/W wires (Gear Position switch).
    3. A 92 ohm resistor between the B and B/Br wires and a 191 ohm resistor between the B and R wires (Tip Over switch).
    4. The Y/R wire was soldered to the O/W wire and connected to keyed +power.
    5. The R/Bl wire was soldered to the R wire and it's too connected to keyed +power.
    6. The clutch switch wire B/Y was cut but not attached to anything.
    7. The Y/G wire connects the starter relay and ECU but was cut from the starter button that was removed.
    8. The side stand switch & wire (G) was removed with the fuze block. Not sure if this is addressed.

    When I turn on the new ignition I hear the motors and such at the throttle bodies adjust so I know they are getting power.

    I cranked over the motor and got no pulses on the noid light for a primary injector. I do have power on both the O/W wires (coils) and Y/R wires (injectors) when new ignition is turned on (as checked by my voltmeter).

    I dont believe the fuel level is an issues on the GSXR750 like it is on some busa's.

    If you have suggestions then please shout them at me. I'm using this as a way to collect my thoughts a see if I missed anything.

    You can see the "new" ignition, temporary fuze block, and alternate relay I'm using for the starter sitting on the stool but I removed the battery to charge it.

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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #69
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I wish I was more versed in Suzuki.
    Seems like you’ve covered your bases.

    When you put the stand down, does it close the switch or open it? If it closes the switch, that can go away. If it opens it, that means the switch is closed when the stand is up so the ECU would be looking for a grounded circuit to operate. (Does this make sense?

    Same for the clutch.

    I’ll guess it’s one simple wire causing the issues.
    Sand is for fast cars

    Dirt is for fast drivers



    Yellow Dog Racing
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    Re: Desert Panther based (loosely) 2 seater
    #70
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I wish you luck. I've never tried to wire up one of those motorcycle engines, for good reason. Very intimidating. It seems that it only takes one misplaced wire to stop everything from running. The industrial engines that I fuss with are wired like a Model T, in comparison. An ignition switch, a voltage regulator, a fuse and a wire running to the battery. That's it. A voltmeter and about 5 minutes are all you need to figure out where you have an electrical problem.
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