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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #11
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    You’ve got the right idea with that plate.
    Time for some CAD (cardboard aided design) work!
    Mock up what you have and then start playing with the top link’s mounting point and length and you’ll quickly see what happens.
    Try to keep the line between the two pivots as close to centered on the CV cup as possible to help combat axle plunge.
    Search around the site for inspiration as there are some very clever suspension designs floating around. Copying an XP’s setup wouldn’t be a bad start.

    BTW, what part of Hell (Ohio) are you from? I did my 25 year sentence; escaped almost 5 years ago and would rather eat toenails in a WallyWorld than go back there.
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #12
    The Bob Ross of MBN Bullnerd's Avatar
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    "eat toenails in a WallyWorld"

    That is Nasty!
    "Speed is time-time is speed"-Dennis Hopper

    Quote Originally Posted by TALON View Post
    did you use a special bigfoot camera or something ,you know all blurry could be a tree stump kinda thing .
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #13
    Millenium Member plkracer's Avatar
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    Must be an expression from Ohio? Never heard that one before!
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #14
    Senior Member
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    friend with the revolt is Nick, he has since sold it to Nukem, not sure if he is a member of this board,
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #15
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    My job brought us to the Columbus area around 15 years ago. I'm actually about 30 miles outside Columbus.

    Out of curiosity...where in "Hell" did you live?
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #16
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Iiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnn Milford! (Holiday Homes TV commercial quote) about 3 o’clock on the I-275 loop where US50 and State Route 131 cross over.

    I miss my friends but fortunately they come out here in the winter and we go play in the desert on our bikes.

    I’m now forced to deal with sights like these from this past Tuesday:

    774C6E9E-BB6D-4DCC-9A89-6AD057040993.jpg 75C4CDC8-2EB9-46AF-9844-0D2E5478B733.jpg A0CFD15E-60A6-45A8-9C75-D7F39628CDFB.jpg

    It’s just horrible, I tell you! Street legal RZR, street legal KTM 350... horrible, just horrible.
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #17
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    that last pic would make a nice hat band
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #18
    The Wizard bdkw1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank View Post
    thoughts?
    Time for some CAD....... Cardboard Aided Design.

    Take the spring off the shock. Take off the upper rear link. Make adjustable dummy link. Tape cardboard to back of frame. Set your castor at full droop too -2*, draw arc with dummy link on cardboard. Set at ride height too -.5* and draw arc. Set at full bump and -3* and draw arc. If there is not a nice meeting point of all three arcs, change the length of the dummy link and try again.

    My guess is the link will be about 2" shorter and the mount about 1" down. In order to maintain low axle plunge you really need to move both mounts so that the line between them goes through the center of the CV. Just changing the top will give you more plunge but it may not be a deal breaker.

    Edit: should have read page 2 LOL, lots of this is covered. Also, K-fab stealing my jokes.
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #19
    The Bob Ross of MBN Bullnerd's Avatar
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    Here's some dims I took for K-fab a while back.

    rear dims.jpg
    "Speed is time-time is speed"-Dennis Hopper

    Quote Originally Posted by TALON View Post
    did you use a special bigfoot camera or something ,you know all blurry could be a tree stump kinda thing .
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    Re: Redline Revolt rebuild / modify
    #20
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    Here are some pics of my "set up" identifying mounting points of upper drag ling (radius rod). so that i get more camber when cornering.


    • I noticed that the inner mounting points sit "rear" of the trailing arm mounting points by 2 1/4". How much affect does this have on toe change? Based on my tinkering, it DOES affect toe change during movement.
    • Because the inner points were so far back the cardboard arms weren't ideal. So I took a piece of flat stock and bent accordingly. drilled a hole on one end to mount to the upper mounting point on the trailing arm and drilled a row of holes 1/2" apart on the other end. the holes were big enough for the tip of a pen to fit through. it worked well.
    • After finding my new "mounting point", I made up a temporary wood spreader that allowed me to check the axle plunge at "dead level" compared to the original configuration. still had plunge.
    • Instead of cycling the shock every time I needed to check a different length, I made up a "step block" that represented the full droop, ride height and full compression positions. made it much easier.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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