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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #61
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Jso red and yellow tubes should be all one continuous piece?
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #62
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Yes, that's better.
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #63
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Should the navy blue and lime green all be the same tube as well?
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #64
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    If possible. The main cage will have interruptions where the a-pillar/roof/downbar attach.

    Check this link - when I did the cages on the XP900s we used to own. That will give you some thought on cage design. Might poke around on the Tazcar links there too.
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #65
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. I'll check that out for sure.
    Take a look at my last pics posted, what would you call the green hoop? Wouldn't I want that to be a continuous piece? Do all these members have names? I know A-pillar, and B-pillar. How about main hoop? What's a main hoop? Sorry for all the newb questions, but thanks for the reply's.
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
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    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    OK, I read over most everything. looked at another few places as well. The green is the main hoop and that apparently is where everything is built off of. Is that right?

    Where I'm getting lost with my design is I have the entire cage elevated some 5" to give me the head room I need, but also give that look of not being such a tall buggy. There are other reasons for this too, ground clearance, higher sides for rocks, smaller belly, etc. I have seen it done on other buggy and I want to do it too. What I'm having trouble with is how do I get that main hoop (Green) that is 5" above to attach to the belly bars (light purple). Should I round out the main hoop to the rails (light yellow) as shown in the second photo? - or - Should I have the belly be fully rounded as in the first photo and figure out how to connect the main hoop?

    Help please
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
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    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    ok, someone please take a look at what I have done. I wasn't sure how to attach or structurally connect the pan rails to the rest of the cage. So, I came up with the attached.
    Does this make sense?
    Is it the right way to do it?
    Is it overly complicated?
    Is it even possible?
    Should I abandon ship all together?
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
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    Millenium Member Deranged's Avatar
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    I think you are going in the right direction for sure. Some areas seem like they are overly complicated and may be hard to build. Below are some photos of my old 2 seat car. If you look at a lot of the class 1 cars as well as the trucks, you will see that there are very few bends in the chassis. Keep in mind the actual fabrication. On my 2 seat car, the rear suspension mounts to a straight tube and everything is built off of that. There are areas where bends will be needed. On my car, I would have bobbed the front end down for visibility purposes as well as raise my seat height a little bit too.
    I hope this helps. Let me know if you would like any more reference pictures.





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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #69
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deranged View Post
    I think you are going in the right direction for sure. Some areas seem like they are overly complicated and may be hard to build. Below are some photos of my old 2 seat car. If you look at a lot of the class 1 cars as well as the trucks, you will see that there are very few bends in the chassis. Keep in mind the actual fabrication. On my 2 seat car, the rear suspension mounts to a straight tube and everything is built off of that. There are areas where bends will be needed. On my car, I would have bobbed the front end down for visibility purposes as well as raise my seat height a little bit too.
    I hope this helps. Let me know if you would like any more reference pictures.

    Justin
    That is very much appreciated. For my post #67 above, I was trying to see if that (white tubes) was the proper approach to connecting a belly structure that was not quite as wide as the sides of the buggy.

    I read somewhere that a 30* bend is better than a 30* weld so I have really been taking that to heart. Obviously there are going to be places where bends just wont cut it. I'm not sure if ya'll noticed or not, but the red tube in my above post #67 is essentially one, uninterrupted tube. Obviously that's not possible from a fabrications point of view but I believe the effect is possible. Or at least those are my thoughts. Was thinking if I strategically butt welded the tubing with internal sleeves and rosette welds, I could achieve the effect? Anyone want to contest me on this theory?

    My focus lately has been on front suspension geometry. I have been paying close attention to the angles at the Heim joints to see what sort of travel I can get out of this thing. It's going to be 4x4 optional so my lower swing arms are 6" apart. Does anyone know if that's enough room for a RZR 1000 front diff?

    Also, when you read data sheets on CV axles and they say 60*, does that mean it can articulate 30* in any direction from perfect center? In other words, does that mean from outer limit to outer limit is 60*? What angle is typical for CVs? Anyone recommend a brand over another?

    I'm planning on using 32" tires, but designing the thing to geometrically work with 35" tires. I been playing around with ride height quite a bit while looking at the angles in the heim joints making sure I don't exceed them in any way (full bump turning, and full droop turning). Do I want the front lower swing arms level at ride height? What is best, a 50/50 split between bump and droop from ride height? I ask because it's proving easier to get about 8.5" of travel at full bump and 11.5" of travel at full droop. Does that sound about right?

    I was looking at a tubing bender the other day and I have the option of getting a 1.5" die, or 1.75" die. Initially, I wanted the 1.75" die but I wonder if that's what I really want to build my buddy out of. The smaller diameter will be cheaper and lighter obviously. How are ya'll deciding on what diameter DOM tubing to use? What are ya'll using for the suspension (swing arms, A-arms, etc)?
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