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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #11
    Millenium Member jersdunz's Avatar
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    One nice thing about straight tubes, they're a lot easier to get square and straight. May want to keep that in mind.

    Oh also make the rear bulk head or whatever you want to call it, make it so the whole back end bolts in.. Cause you never know when you'll want to have a reset on mc power, boosted subie, LS or k24 on a mendeola.

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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #12
    Millenium Member jersdunz's Avatar
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    Another thing, ... Lol
    Give yourself lots of head room. Ya don't want to be knocking the noggin on tubes while smashing flailing arms... Ouch.

    The tall cage isn't very sexy but it's nice piece of mind. I almost made mine to tall.

    I remember back in the 90's the trend was to lay down in buggies you couldn't even sit up in..









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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #13
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I’ll second that on headroom. 4” as a minimum, 6” is even ‘more better’.
    I’ve used up all my headroom in a crash, strapped in tightly and still can’t get over how hard we got pile drived into the roof on the last hit.
    Headroom, like a helmet, is a life saver.
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #14
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    I'm a bit of a design guy, at least that's what I'm paid to do by my employer! Even before specifying tires, wheels and working inwards - functional requirements are the things that you want to consider first. This is just a fancy way of saying "what you want this thing to do". Are there size constraints (can it fit on a 50" only trail... fit in a garage, in a pickup bed? Is it going to be street legal? What kind of speed/performance is desired? What will it's primary operation be? The next big driver of the final vehicle design will be fitting the components that may not necessarily ideal, but fit a persons budget! One functional requirement is that your wife will need to be able to drive it - this changes the powerplant from a sport bike engine to a snowmobile engine - Yamaha RX1 for example to get you the sport bike engine sound. Just wanted to help get you started down the right path! All good advice from everyone else that's posted!
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #15
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    I love your model. Did you create it yourself? AutoCAD it looks like?

    I'm taking some advice and designing the thing from the wheels in. hopefully I can incorporate one of my changes into the design. I want to keep this buggy width to 72" wide. I want to put down about 150hp some way or another and I want around 24"+/- of travel front and rear. I have been thinking about a chain driven rear swing arm design like this for some time now. What do you think?
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #16
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    ok, so your asking for some specifications in a way:72" widewheelbase: TBD ~ +/-110"primarily used for weekend excursions, trail riding.wife has to drive it, so no clutch. (her rule)It will be street legal when it's all said and done, so turn signals, lights etc.top speed of around 55mph tops. More low end, less top end.I like 30" tires, but 32" tires are pretty nice too.+/-24" of suspension travel, front and rear.rear swing arms, front A-arms
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #17
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    We all want 24" of travel in a 72" wide car. Good luck! Most things start binding around 20" unless you go the route JGSturbo has with his pivots and such and he's strapping out some of the droop. You'll not get that out of trailing arms without going to a non-plunging CV or the Intrepid and F150 axle setup (search this - look under flyerrider's stuff and JGSturbo's builds) but then you'll need a plunging axle (which does NOT work - been there, done that, thrown away a few tries). You can get more travel out of an A-arm rear setup and using the non-plunging stuff than you will out of a trailing arm. Trailing arm is beefier but not as adjustable than the a-arm - you can design better wheel motion (changes in camber) with the a-arm, though.

    With any of the powerplants you've mentioned your top end will be closer to 75/80 or more depending on your final drive. Gearing it too short will lead to a lot more wheel spin than you're going to want. Apex motor coupled to an RPM box with an 8:1 gear ratio and 30" tires will lead to killer acceleration and around 85 top end. I'd bump up to 32" tires if I were you and stick with the 8:1 RPM and Apex - slightly less acceleration (still more than enough for any situation) and probably closer to 90 mph for top end.
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #18
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    I agree with you on the 32" tires. Did you see my post above about my chain driven swing arm? it's based on the following images...


    199_9947-large.jpgbigbuggy19.jpgEBK-Style.jpg247650.jpg
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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #19
    Millenium Member jersdunz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67StingrayJ View Post
    I agree with you on the 32" tires. Did you see my post above about my chain driven swing arm? it's based on the following images...


    199_9947-large.jpgbigbuggy19.jpgEBK-Style.jpg247650.jpg
    Play close attention to the power plants and the weights of those rigs.
    I didn't see 150 hp ..

    I'm not saying that won't work. But I Will say that chains seriously dislike misalignment. And tube steel is really quite
    Bendy.. There are solutions on here proven the non plunging setup is my favorite.

    Not to mention that a-arms can be as weak or as strong as you want them. Mine are 1" 0.083 wall, miter cut & somehow have held up. Trailing arms are voodoo magic...lol

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    Re: Design Phases 3D model of frame
    #20
    Millenium Member Deranged's Avatar
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    Did someone say radius tubes?


    And a-arm rear suspension?


    This started out as a perfectly fine AR-51 car and now its a 100" wheelbase, 80" wide single seat busa powered monster! Here is my rendering I did while chewing on crayons. LOL
    Nowhere near the desert.
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