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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kustomfab2003 View Post
    Just curious, since you were re-building the front end, why you didn't include any rake/layback into your design? Right now both your arms are traveling straight up and down, had you included a 5-8 degrees of rake/layback (back angle, front pivot point being higher then the back pivot point at the connection of each arm) the suspension should work a bit better. If you look at many of the the a-arm designs out there quads, SXS, trophy trucks etc. you will see they all have about a 5-8 degree angle to their design.

    I like what you have done, just thought I would ask.
    I agree there needs to be some rake to help absorb impacts more and distribute the forces on my A arms more equally. I couldn't easily package the 5-8 degrees due to my steering rack placement and my tie rod routing through the the lower mounts. My justification for this is squat that will get me to that 5-8 degrees. I did overlook the awkward angle during braking, which the built in rake would have helped.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #22
    Senior Member kustomfab2003's Avatar
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    I understand, sometimes things just don't work out...did you ever think of cutting a notch into the frame past the rear arm mount (2.5-4 degrees) and welding, boxing and plating it up. That way you could get the rake desired and still use your current setup? I know it might make the tub/plastics fit different, but they don't help with suspension geometry.

    I have been down this road before, just asking the questions, please don't take it as an attack.
    Marine Veteran Sgt USMC 8151/8541 1992-2000
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kustomfab2003 View Post
    I understand, sometimes things just don't work out...did you ever think of cutting a notch into the frame past the rear arm mount (2.5-4 degrees) and welding, boxing and plating it up. That way you could get the rake desired and still use your current setup? I know it might make the tub/plastics fit different, but they don't help with suspension geometry.

    I have been down this road before, just asking the questions, please don't take it as an attack.
    I'm still learning so no offense taken. I did consider that, but the original FL250 tub is something I wanted to keep no matter what so that made it hard to package also. I definitely overlooked a few things while I designed the front suspension, but this definitely won't be my last build so I'll make sure to incorporate that into the next one. I've driven buggies with 5 degrees of rake and 15 degrees of rake back to back and couldn't really tell the difference anywhere besides hitting logs, so I'm not too concerned about it being a big enough issue to change it at this point.

    Thank you for your input, it helps having extra sets of eyes on things!
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #24
    Senior Member kustomfab2003's Avatar
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    We are here to learn, and pass on knowledge when we have it
    Marine Veteran Sgt USMC 8151/8541 1992-2000
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #25
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    Over the holidays I managed to get the rear suspension all tacked on and lined up. I had to modify the rear end to allow for enough bump travel so that the trailing arms did not hit the frame.





    Next up is mounting the rear shocks and then I can finally move on to my driveline.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #26
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    Rear shocks are mounted! The buggy stood on its own 4 wheels for the first time today.



    I also started to mock up the rear driveline. I still have to machine 3 more bearing carriers total, one more for the spool and two to hold the driven clutch jackshaft.




    One thing I decided to do on this build is to integrate the ball grooves of the plunging inboard joint into the spool and bolt the sprocket on to the spool. Has anyone ever tried heat treating at home before? My ball grooves will definitely be too soft to hold up to the abuse of the axles.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #27
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I’ve seen plain (1018 or the likes) steel heated up with a torch to red then quenched in motor oil for a home heat treating. It worked quite well.
    That said, I think the cv cup races are induction hardened - not sure what will happen to that part.
    go for it.
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