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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #11
    Senior Member jimmyg's Avatar
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    Good stuff.

    Best thing about steel is you can always change things if your not happy.
    All dressed up and waiting for the beer to arrive.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #12
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    Got my steering rack mounted (again) but this time I'm happier with the placement. I decided to flip the rack and "push" on the front of the upright to steer instead of "pulling" like a conventional steering setup. I still have to weld my mounts to my upright for steering and calipers.






    I also got the original FL250 Honda fiberglass tub in (with some modifications). I'm thinking about making my own fiberglass fenders to bolt on after patching the clearance holes with fiberglass.

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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #13
    Senior Member
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    Lincoln, Nebraska
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    This thing looks pretty cool. What are the dimensions going to be overall for this?
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JagerDanger View Post
    This thing looks pretty cool. What are the dimensions going to be overall for this?
    With the front A arms horizontal it will be 64" wide, 62" wide in the rear. About 16" of travel in the front, the rear is TBD depending on shock placement and CV angles, but my goal is 18" rear travel. Wheelbase is 68".
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #15
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    Starting to look like something! I've still got a ways to go on the cage but at least my suspension is all welded.



    What are some good looking color schemes you have seen? I'm thinking black for the main frame (bottom) but I'm not sure what to paint my roll cage and suspension components.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #16
    Member 67StingrayJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2019
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    Las Cruces, NM
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    I played that game on my current buggy. I went with a ‘bud light’ blue with red accents. Called it my my little buddy build. Unfortunately the paint I got doesn’t hold up to anything more than a bump. I would suggest going with a rustolium product that has a proven track record as far as surface durability. Others online here can make a recommendation. I can’t remember what h should have used. I read somewhere about the rustolium stuff being hard as nails but I went against their suggestions and I regret it. Once you determine what the stuff is, you’ll have narrowed your color pallet down quite a bit. But when it’s all said and done, does it really matter? I mean your gonna drive the piss out of it either way right? And it’s going to get dirty so it’s only going to look shockingly good until you take it riding. Let’s face it, all you really need is to keep the thing from rusting should the occasional puddle come out of nowhere. Soooo, with all that being said, I love a good bright color on my buggy, and a true black on the upper roll bars. It makes the think look lower, especially if the cage is quite high.
    HARD WORK PAY$
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #17
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    Got the main roll cage all buttoned up, I still have a lot more to finish weld and add more tubes for braces.

    I also got my front shocks (thank Frank!) and got them mounted. I have 22" of total front suspension travel, which will be plenty.





    I have a little more bump steer than I want, but I think I can mess around with the ends on my steering rack to eliminate some bump steer.

    Has anyone else here ran air shocks (2.0 fox air shocks) before on a build? If so what did you start out with nitrogen pressure and valving, and how heavy was your buggy?
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #18
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
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    That's gonna be a ripper. Light, good HP, travel. Yeah, nice.
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #19
    Millenium Member
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    Lansing, MI
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    The 12 inch travel 2.0 shocks on the 600 Pilot (about 700 lbs) came with 30/90 valving and that allowed the rear end to pack down. I went with what I understand is the standard, 50/70, and have been happy. I can't recall pressures, but buy or borrow a nitrogen bottle, every buggy and/or driver likes something different.
    I race, therefore I am
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    Re: Honda FL 440 Build
    #20
    Senior Member kustomfab2003's Avatar
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    De Pere, WI
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    Just curious, since you were re-building the front end, why you didn't include any rake/layback into your design? Right now both your arms are traveling straight up and down, had you included a 5-8 degrees of rake/layback (back angle, front pivot point being higher then the back pivot point at the connection of each arm) the suspension should work a bit better. If you look at many of the the a-arm designs out there quads, SXS, trophy trucks etc. you will see they all have about a 5-8 degree angle to their design.

    I like what you have done, just thought I would ask.
    Marine Veteran Sgt USMC 8151/8541 1992-2000
    Process Improvement Specialist Miller Electric MFG LLC
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