Willy's Flat fender Buggy Build

**plkracer** · 01-10-2019 05:31 PM

I believe mine are at 7 degrees to the line perpendicular to the car centerline. Arms are ~24 inch on center, 16 inches of travel, and something like 3 degrees of camber gain from droop to bump.

You will need a lot more bracing than what you have. I have some pictures of my arms somewhere, which is the standard bracing setup. TutTech had some good pictures of proper bracing as well.

Basically you need to turn the vertical spread on the bearing mount plate to horizontal spread at the arm mounting points. Then you need to add tubes between the forward/aft tubes to truss the structure to take the torsion due to the wheel being offset, and side loading.

**sosasser** · 01-10-2019 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by plkracer

I believe mine are at 7 degrees to the line perpendicular to the car centerline. Arms are ~24 inch on center, 16 inches of travel, and something like 3 degrees of camber gain from droop to bump.

You will need a lot more bracing than what you have. I have some pictures of my arms somewhere, which is the standard bracing setup. TutTech had some good pictures of proper bracing as well.

Basically you need to turn the vertical spread on the bearing mount plate to horizontal spread at the arm mounting points. Then you need to add tubes between the forward/aft tubes to truss the structure to take the torsion due to the wheel being offset, and side loading.

I know I've seen the box style arms, and I've seen others. But I was looking all over and couldn't find very many good pictures with tubing. Any pictures you have would be great. Anything I can get before I build them. The Waterject company said they won't be getting around to my parts till next week. The wheel bearing plates are part of those parts.

**sosasser** · 01-11-2019 02:52 AM

What do you guys think about this one?

**bdkw1** · 01-11-2019 04:26 PM

It's going to twist up like a pretzel.

With the frame in the way like that, the only solutions I can see would loose a lot of ground clearance.

**K-fab** · 01-12-2019 02:01 PM

I agree, it’s going to develope a lot of camber that you don’t want.
Gonna twist the arm right there at that flat plate.

**bdkw1** · 01-13-2019 05:04 AM

If you want trailing arms and decent travel without being sky high, your going to have to back half the frame or loose some serious ground clearance.

This is similar to a 4-link with a solid axle, Frame is in the way if uptravel and or mounting shocks.

Even with a 3, 4 or 5 link the radius rods would foul the frame.

**sosasser** · 01-14-2019 03:10 PM

I figured out that if the trailing arm comes up that far to be even close to touching the frame, the tire would be like about 2" into the fender. So I'm going to have to take another look and see what I can come up with. I think I'm going to have to move the 3rd member down along with everything else. Meanwhile I was surfing around looking at pictures of trailing arms, and found one on Tatum Motorsports that I think I'm going to try to copy. Better off that way anyway so I don't have to have any bends. My tubing bender is for pipe measured to the ID so my test bend last night did not turn out well.
https://tatummotorsports.com/product/930-midboard-4130-trailing-arms/

**K-fab** · 01-14-2019 04:22 PM

Those should be a good model.

**bdkw1** · 01-14-2019 05:37 PM

Those are good arms. Only change I would make is uniball inner pivot and hiem outer.

**plkracer** · 01-14-2019 07:40 PM

Nice, mine are really similar. I have a vertical tube between both pairs of the forward running tubes, and a shear web between those two vertical tubes. I also have a single tube from the front of the bearing mount plate to the vertical tube, instead of the double that Tatum uses.

The shear web helps absorb the torsion, where as the Tatum design looks like some of the tubes are at an angle to the earth plane.