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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #21
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    What do you mean "the base"? Like the bottom mounted area? Maximum width? Whatever you need off them I'll go measure them.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #22
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    Nevermind...just saw one of the reviewers took pics and a measurement.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #23
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    The Deuce i want to put them in has the lower bars tapered in at the bottom. I got the measurement I need thanks!
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #24
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    Well I needed a new intake. I whipped this up out of the scrap I had laying around. I had to pie-cut the bend, but maybe next time I can do it with a pre-made bend. The K&N is from a '02 GSXR600. Still needs some cleaning up and paint..and I need to make a bracket to hold it steady. I think it will serve nicely.








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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #25
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    New shoes and...uh...socks?





    245/70-16's. Lots of sidewall. DOT legal AT's I think will be the best things I can run on this machine. I'm keeping my 27" bear claws in case I want something a bit more dedicated, but I bet these will suit most of my riding.


    I had to run a 2" spacer in the back to get them mounted proper and clear everything. I thought I could get away with a 1" spacer in the front but, at lock, it rubs the body. Just barely, and only at lock. I'm not sure how to address it, though, because a bigger spacer will just increase my circumference and I'll rub somewhere else. My bushings up front are completely shot, though, and the arms aren't serviceable...maybe time to build a 1~2" wider track. [b]I'd love any suggestions that don't involve making the thing wider, though.[b]





    ...I'm such a damn yuppie.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #26
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    I've been looking for a set of RZR shocks but they're mostly still a bit out of my price range. These things are actually not that much heavier than the wheels and tires that were on it...I don't know how they compare to stock, though.


    I started working on the tank last night. Cut all the handles and feet off. I've seen this done a couple times, and I did something similar with my GK13 but I left the feet and handle on. Something I've never seen mentioned is DO NOT use a grinder. The metal on these tanks is a bit soft, and much thinner than you'd think. Cut the handles off 1/8" above the tank and use a flap wheel to bring them down.





    I'm going to use the factory inlet bung for my fuel out. They're 1/2" pipe thread. I used a bushing into a 1" tee, and then bushings back down to the 1/4" barbs. The stock tank on the GK34 has both the supply and return lines right on top of each other, which pushes air bubbles back to the fuel pump, which causes cavitation. On my GK13 I solved that issue but have the in and out bungs separated...the problem I had with the GK13 was that if I was on a steep incline, and my tank was less than 1/3 full, I'd start fuel starving because there's no sump. Using this large tee fitting will act like a sump and should give me a bit of time at an incline.





    I'm considering going back and putting a ball valve between the tank and the tee. I hate not have a cut off, but I don't know if I've got the room. We'll see, I suppose.


    I'm going to cut the fuel cap off the stock GK34 tank and weld it to my new one.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #27
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    Got the same tank to modify.

    I made one out of a keg a long time ago but can't find it to cut off the filler neck...now i have to buy a filler neck somewhere. Couldn't find one at Tractor supply.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by makenzie71 View Post
    I'm considering going back and putting a ball valve between the tank and the tee. I hate not have a cut off, but I don't know if I've got the room. We'll see, I suppose.


    I'm going to cut the fuel cap off the stock GK34 tank and weld it to my new one.
    Couldn't you just put a 90 on that or does it have to be up and down for some reason?

    Also, why can't you just return into the top of the tank instead?

    I was wondering about tilting the tank just slightly to whichever side had the fitting so the gas would run "downhill" when it was getting low...
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MASCMAN View Post
    Couldn't you just put a 90 on that or does it have to be up and down for some reason?

    Also, why can't you just return into the top of the tank instead?

    I was wondering about tilting the tank just slightly to whichever side had the fitting so the gas would run "downhill" when it was getting low...
    I'm wanting to use the fittings as a sump. My first idea was a 1/2" tee right off the bung, then I was going to weld my filter and pump clamps directly to the tank. Keep everything right there in line and it would look very neat and clean. But I thought about the problems I had with my VFR buggy...while I doubt I can ever get this with this buggy, if I was less than half a tank that thing could accelerate hard enough to starve the line. Plus, as said, on steep inclines it could starve.

    I can't see myself getting into the same kind of problems...especially with an 11 gallon tank...but just in case. By volume that tee should give me nearly 4 minutes of idle....obviously less under load, but all the same. It'll only give me that if I'm drawing from the bottom, though. If I turn it sideways or orientate it differently then my volume will be cut in half.
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    Re: Mak's next buggy.
    #30
    The Bob Ross of MBN Bullnerd's Avatar
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    Speaking of how thin the tank is, is it safe?

    How much of a hit can it take before it spills fuel onto the occupants?

    Are you mounting it up high like the stock one?

    If I was driving something on the street with my family in it, id make sure they would be as safe as possible.
    "Speed is time-time is speed"-Dennis Hopper

    Quote Originally Posted by TALON View Post
    did you use a special bigfoot camera or something ,you know all blurry could be a tree stump kinda thing .
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