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    GSXR Wire Diagram
    #1
    Senior Member
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    Bugpac request and Jody's response:

    www.hyperracing.com

    $150 apc. They turned them around in about a week. The motors fired right up with no guess work.

    edit: if you want to use the stock gauge cluster tell Hyper.....
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    #2
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    Does anyone suggest not using something like this? I just talked to them, and it looks like I could totally tell them to keep any controls or anything I want to keep, and they ditch everything else. I am HIGHLY considering doing that for sure. Gosh, It would really be nice to just start working on other shit, and then get the thing back in the mail in a few weeks. 150$ is not a bad price at all! Then again, from what I understand it takes much less money if I go the DYI route. What about the time I would spend doing it all? Is that extensive? I don't have much wiring experience, just plug n play... Would this job be over my head even though I am a really fast learner? (Ive never built a sandrail or designed one either, but i feel pretty good about how Im doing so far.)
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    #3
    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    It's not that hard. Just get a wiring diagram and then get help here on the board if you ever get stuck. Really just a matter of you spending your time or your money. I have done a couple GSXR harnesses, a Honda harness and now I'm just building my own so I have learned a little about them. Others here have done the same, no rocket science is involved. I can't speak for them but I'm happy to help answer specific questions if I can, just ask. Tim
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    ok right on man. I think I won't send it to them then. I don't think they were going to do much anyways, since I want to keep all the controls n stuff, and gauges ect.

    Maybe you could tell me the 1st and 2nd things to do...? the harness is on the engine sitting in the car right now.
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    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    OK, help me get calibrted a little bit. What engine do you have (model, year etc)? Do you have the wiring diagram? Do you have all the stock sensors etc that plug into the harness? Do you have a stock fuel pump that you are going to use? I had a pretty good summary written up for Bug at one time but didn't keep a copy. I can reproduce that I guess once I know what you have. In it's simplest terms you are going to keep all of the sensors that the CPU needs to decide how and when it wants to inject the fuel and add spark to the engine, bypass a couple of switches that are used for permissive start like the clutch and side stand switches, and keep the feeds to the gauges (I assume you are keeping the gauges). The other wiring that is there for lights, turn signals, brake lights etc can either be cut out or just sealed up. For the first try I'd just seal it up for now and I'd also just keep the stock fuse block and fuel pump relay. So give me a summary of what you have on hand... Tim
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    #6
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    I have everything that you just mentioned. remember, I bought the whole bike.

    I want to keep the lights wired, because I will wire in lights in its stead. Also, street legal would be cool, so break lights and signals some day.

    It is a 2003 GSXR 750. I am using the stock fuel pump, and gas tank if I can't sell this one on ebay, and get a housing made for a cell or an alum one. Non issue at this point. The biggest thing is getting the engine to start and run.
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    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    OK, lets start here then. Some basics off the top of my head. I don't have a wiring diagram handy so hopefully I haven't forgotten anything major but we can always add to this later. Others who have done this already, if I have accidentally left something out chime in.

    In order to know how and when to inject fuel and spark the CPU needs:
    1) Ambient air pressure
    2) Intake manifold pressure
    3) Engine operating temperature
    4) Intake air temperature
    5) Throttle position
    6) Cam Position
    7) Power
    8) Injectors connected
    9) Coils connected

    Note: Most bikes have versions of “limp home” software. If the CPU is missing certain signals it will still run but not well (to allow you to limp home). Critical signals (like cam position) will prevent starting.

    Permissives include:
    1) Clutch switch (clutch must be in to allow starter to activate)
    2) Side stand switch (cut fuel if put into gear with side stand down)
    3) Tip over (also called bank angle) sensor (cut fuel if tipped excessively)
    4) Oil pressure (idiot light or permissive = on loss of pressure cut fuel)
    5) Gear position sensor (fuel mix and side stand cut out)
    6) Anti-theft circuit satisfied (if equipped)

    Other accessories are common things like:
    1) Lights
    2) Turn signals
    3) Brake light
    4) Gauges
    5) Horn
    6) Fuel level or level warning
    7) Tachometer
    8) Speedometer (counter sprocket speed sensor)
    9) Test port (error code trigger)
    10) Radiator cooling fan

    That is sort of a general summary, but it is a good start in terms of locating those things that the CPU needs see to allow the bike to run. By the way ... By "permissives" I mean that all the criticfal inputs needed to run are there but the CPU must still give the system permission to start or to keep running. For example tip a running bike over, the bank angle sensor trips, the CPU responds by cancelling permission to run by killing power to the fuel pump. Put a running bike in gear with the side stand down and same deal. Try to hit the starter with the clutch out and no permission will be given for power to flow to the starter solenoid.
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    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    So now for the practical ... go find all of the items in the first list (the top 9) and make sure they are all connected. After doing that find all of the items in the permissives list and then we can discuss those.
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    #9
    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    If I were you I would bypass the following permissives... Solder a jumper into the clutch switch so that the CPU thinks the clutch is always in. Obviously you could rig up a switch to your clutch pedal so that your buggy wouldn't crank unless the clutch is in but in my mind that is overkill. Second use a multimeter to read the resistance of your tip over sensor and then go to Radio Shack and buy resistors of that approximate value and solder them across the two wires that go to the sensor. Probably about 60K ohm for your engine, 30 to 100 should work, 1/4 or 1/2 watt is OK. Alternatively open the sensor and fill it with non- conductive silicone, then plug it in and leave it. Then find the plug that goes to the side stand. If you have a multimeter check your switch to see if it is closed with the stand up or closed with it down. Every bike I have seen has been closed with the stand up (including my two GSXR's). In that case cut off the connector wherever is convenient and solder a jumper between the two wires. If you had a switch that was open when the side stand was up then you would just cut the wires and seal them up. Keep your gear position sensor as stock and you have the whole bike so just keep the ignition switch (which solves the anti-theft circuit problem for you). Also just keep the oil pressure sender wire attached to the sender.
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    #10
    Super Moderator rowycoracing's Avatar
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    Oh one note on the temp sender. Most bikes will have two of them. One is usually mounted in the block (head) and reads the engine temp directly. That is the one the CPU uses for fuel control, to richen the mixture for cold starts etc. That sender also is the one that feeds the temperature readout on the gauges. The other switch is usually mounted in the radiator inlet side or just after the thermostat in the cooling water line going to the radiator. That switch is used to turn the cooling fan on and off. Keep it and just use it to trigger your stock or aftermarket fan if you are using one. If not you can leave it unplugged and it won't impact the CPU.

    So let me know when you get this far along... I have to run for now. More later.
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