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    Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #1
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    Hi All, I am having a spot of bother with my water pump on a ZX12R 2003 motor in my buggie. I replaced the oil pump impeller, shaft and water pump impeller. I purchased all the parts from a local Kawasaki agent who imported them from Japan. I have re-assembled to find that the water pump impeller is fouling the outer water pump casing. The pump seems to be about 2 to 3mm out of position.
    The question is, has any one heard of any issues with the length of new oil pump shafts and or the size of the water pump impellers? Thanks all
    Last edited by tbwcurtis; 04-16-2012 at 01:02 PM.
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    Re: Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #2
    Millenium Member nutz4sand's Avatar
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    I do not of your situation but on a lot ofthe smaller liquid cooled Poalris motors you NEED to set up and shim the water pump. To much clearance it cavitates. To little it hits.

    Your setup may need to be shimmed or you may have got a spacer in the wrong place?
    Now that NOBAMA has PROVEN he is the absolute WORST president in the history of history Jimmy Carter can thank him for stealing the dunce crown.

    Lets hope the next guy repeals NObama care along with the rest of the stupid crap this blight on our windshield has done.
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    Re: Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #3
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    Thanks Nutz, I have found the issue, The rotor that was supplied by Kawasaki was too long, I had it surfaced ground, but the pin slot was 3mm too deep and thus caused the issue. I now need to find out which pump rotor I need, I am now not sure if the motor I purchased was really a 2003 ZX12R. Thanks for the help.
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    Re: Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #4
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    Problem solved, the motor that I purchased was not a 2003, but a 2001 - naughty naughty. Every component in the oil and water pump are the same, except for the rotor. The rotor is 3mm longer and the pin slot 2mm deeper. Dang it all. Luckily the 2001 rotor is way more common and I picked one up at a local dealer. oil pressure is now smokin hot.

    Any body know how to stop the oil form the oil cooler draining back in to the engine. How about a one way valve. only issue is that the inlet and outlet are on the bottom of the cooler, so I can install a one way on the inlet, but not the outlet!!! Any Ideas - how about just running with more oil!!
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    Re: Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #5
    Millenium Member nutz4sand's Avatar
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    To much oil in the crankcase will cause windage issues where crank rotation at high speed creates wind in the crankcase that actually whips the high oil level up and throws it everywhere and then the piston rings CANNOT remove enough oil off the walls of the cylinders and the rings "float" or hydroplane on the extra oil and it will start burning it. The rings can only plow so much oil of the cylinder walls!

    So thats not a good option!

    Not sure where the oil cooler is? Can it be relocated? If it was not an issue with the bike it should not be a big issue here? Or did you move it already from its stock position?

    The one thing I can think of is to NOT start the engine and rev the sheet out of it till its ran for say ten seconds to give oil a chance to get where its going.

    Thos guys who start an engine and rev the sheet out of it instantly need to be slapped off thier machines.
    Now that NOBAMA has PROVEN he is the absolute WORST president in the history of history Jimmy Carter can thank him for stealing the dunce crown.

    Lets hope the next guy repeals NObama care along with the rest of the stupid crap this blight on our windshield has done.
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    Re: Water Pump Impeller Fouling pump casing?
    #6
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    Agreed, good point, I agree on the rev side, I like to get the engine up to operating temp before any form of revving. I think adding extra oil and allowing the motor to push it through the cooler is the best option as I cannot move it at this point. Thanks
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