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    Mill scale :mad:
    #1
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    Hey guys!

    So I am using hot rolled steel for my tubing as well as my laser cut parts. I figured that I would be able to use a sending disk on an angle grinder to take the mill scale off.... Well, it's not working out so good. It seems to be clogging up....I have been using a grinding wheel on my welding practice pieces, but I think it may take too much material off.

    With a whole bunch of frame in front of me, I'd like to get some pointers from the pros (you guys!) on what is the most effective/easiest way to remove my scale.

    Thanks!
    Mike
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #2
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    Flap disks work ok but are expensive when you use a lot. I buy in bulk from ebay. Sandblasting is a nice option but not practical in most cases. Why do you think that you're grinding too much off? What size tube and sheet are you using
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
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    If the parts aren't to large you could set up a small tank and acid dip them. Lots of into on youtube. Watch the fumes.
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #4
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    a lot of times it comes down to the sandpaper/disc. the old style red discs with a thicker fibrous paper hold up much longer and resist clogging. Those are disappearing from a lot of stores in favor of cheap thin paper discs (yellow,or beige and even some reddish ones) that lose their grit under slight pressure or clog very quickly. If you have a vertical belt sander, clean all your tubing before making any cuts or bends by slowly rolling it against the belt. my old enco blew a few bearings out last year until then it was my preferred cleaning method, especially for powder coated tubes. tedious, but very effective. and the belts lasted a fairly long time. Now I use a flat 5 inch disc with velcro backer in my cordless drill. i use gator brand discs that come in a 20 pack for about $25. about the best of the latest cheap stuff on the market. Stone or angle grinder is too much bite for cleaning tubing.
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #5
    J.M. Action Figure flyerrider's Avatar
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    double post.
    Last edited by flyerrider; 02-05-2015 at 04:19 AM.
    Over complicating mini buggies since 2005

    Certified lazy fabricating laser junkie

    K-Fab Says: Don't ride with me - I flip stuff like RZRs and myself over the bars...
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #6
    J.M. Action Figure flyerrider's Avatar
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    4-1/2 in. Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel

    ^^^ Comes right off with these. This is a Harbor Freight abrasive that actually works better and last longer than the name brand more expensive products. DON'T waste your money on the ones from Grainger, MMC, or Home Depot/Lowes. These are better and half the cost. Sand paper on sanders takes forever. Flapper disks remove way too much metal. The Polycarbide wheels tear the scale off instantly and remove very little if any steel. This is the best viable option I have found. I agree with you on removing the scale. It sucks.

    Here's a fairly close up shot of the metal after using a PC wheel.



    Why hot roll tubing? I understand the sheet but CDS or DOM would be much better at a nominal cost increase. Tubing is the last thing I would skimp on. You will still have mill scale on DOM and Chromoly.
    Last edited by flyerrider; 02-05-2015 at 04:21 AM.
    Over complicating mini buggies since 2005

    Certified lazy fabricating laser junkie

    K-Fab Says: Don't ride with me - I flip stuff like RZRs and myself over the bars...
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #7
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    Flyer's is also an excellent choice, also known as 3m paint and rust stripper wheel (or a "wooly bugger" in old boy body shop terms) but at about 2x the price of the HF link. Good price! You can get them for drill mandrel mounting as well. Only issue is that you have to be very careful using them. If you run them into an edge (holes, corners, tabs etc.) with it rotating INTO the edge, they'll self destruct very rapidly. As with most abrasives, grind with the rotation going off the edge or contour, not into it.
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #8
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    Cool, thanks guys! I suppose I'm really not taking that much off with a grinding disk, but I just hate how it scores the metal creating stress risers. I'm using .095 wall DOM tubing. Sorry, didn't explain that properly, hot rolled laser cut parts, 1.5" square HSS steel for the base structure and 1.5" x 095 wall DOM tubing for the upper cage.
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #9
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    Was hoping the Polycarbides were at princess auto (our version of HF) but they don't, so I'll either have to buy them off eBay for $14ea plus shipping or Goethe flapper disk rout.. How many poly wheels would an average buggy take to do?
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    Re: Mill scale :mad:
    #10
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    you could probably do all your tubing with 1 or 2. As I noted, you just have to be careful with them. doing flat parts etc with edges, one grabbed edge can wipe half the disc right out.
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