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    Stretch you solid axle
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    Seņor Banned Member Chikin's Avatar
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    Ok well I have decided to making more of a effort to show how to threads. I don't want to add it to my build as it should help others.

    So if you have a solid axle ( automotive axle) like out of a pick up or a car (RWD)
    So let's say you find a deal on a axle and well it's not the right size that would work for you and your on a budget. Most people are not made with credit cards or a bank roll.

    Now before you read and make comments. Remember this is meant for off road use only as super high speeds will need to be balanced axle shafts to not have internal axle wobble.


    So this is a 1978 Toyota carolla rear diff that is made off set to let the left wheel be the power wheel. With this set up. There is more weight on the left rear wheel.


    So I wanted to cut the axle and make the wheels even on both sides.
    So with the diff out of the car. Make sure you measure every thing a keep that paper in a safe place. You'll need it.

    Measure and make the pieces you need to move.




    Take out the inner axle and find out the length you need to to make it. Mine is 6 inches more.
    My axle shaft is 1 inch. So I got 1.25 dom (.250 wall ). This will make the shaft fit snugly.




    So here is how you start to stretch the shaft. Place the dom over the axle and find some wood and notch it so the axle can spin so you can see of it is balanced.
    Spin axle and make sure there is not a wobble. Then TACK WELD. And stop!!!
    Continue to spin and check and recheck. And then ask some one else to look at it. Do not continue to weld ... Only tack well the axle 180 degrees to the first weld.. Then stop!!!




    Note we're spinning and stopping....



    Now move to the other side of the axle. Position the shaft inside the other end and spin and check for wobble... Only when you have no wobble and it's strait.... Tack weld 1 spot. And Roll and weld another tack on the other side



    Measure to verify your tack welds are holding your axle to your new width. Then ask some one to check it to make sure your good.
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Seņor Banned Member Chikin's Avatar
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    So now moving on to the axle. The measurements that you made for total axle length will come in handy. So since you already have one side of the axle apart. Take out the internal guts and just use the empty housing and get a longer piece of steel tubing that will fit your bearing caps of a spare nose cone. Slide the tube through the axle housing and add the end cap pieces in to center the axle. This will align the ends for a proper fit.

    Here is a few pics of the nose come jig.
    Nose cone and the center steel to alignment rings.



    This is the center bar.




    This is how it is installed in the housing to align every thing.


    Now weld up the center tubes and the ends. Bazinga.

    Note... I have mounts that I did not want to remake... So I added a piece. You could just start new... I didn't. Oh well. It will work.
    Last edited by Chikin; 10-13-2013 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Added text
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Seņor Banned Member Chikin's Avatar
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    So I spent 20 bucks and I have a axle that will be equal on both sides. Will post pics on the final product later this week.

    Street versions need a axle that will not wobble and well buy one from a shop. This was made the same way most all dwarf car/ legend car guys do them. (Note it's low dollar budget racing and well the way you save money is to make it work.... On the cheap)


    So if you shorten the axle... It's the same process. Make sure you have a bad ass welder and not harbor freight junk. See it's has to hold up to abuse and well you do not want a shit weld to kill you or some one else who would get hit by a flying tire or axle.

    High heat welder and burn it in. Make the welds hot and strong.
    Last edited by Chikin; 10-13-2013 at 07:13 PM.
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Senior Member Duane's Avatar
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    The first thing my welding instructor told us was "Hot, close and fast".
    Nice post Chikin. That is an awesome watch band!
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Seņor Banned Member Chikin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duane View Post
    The first thing my welding instructor told us was "Hot, close and fast".
    Nice post Chikin. That is an awesome watch band!
    Yeah I have 2 welder that are ok...well my brother has the right welder. It makes all the difference. Even a bad ass welder can make a novice look good and like he knows wha he is doing.


    Here is a better pic of the bracelet.
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Wondering Chiken did you drill the outer sleeve and weld them to inner axle? along with welding the ends of the sleeve? this would make the sleeve better and stronger also am i right???? any time i have to splice i always drill holes 180 deg around outer sleeve to weld through to inner tube as well as the ends. plus less chance of just the outer weld breaking. if doing this would be harder to balence it but in your case no big deal. LOVE THE CAR!!!!!!!
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Ah never mind me its late and i just noticed the holes in outer sleeve in third pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Seņor Banned Member Chikin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisMX-15 View Post
    Ah never mind me its late and i just noticed the holes in outer sleeve in third pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Yeah I turned up the welder to "lava" and the speed to normal and we'll let's say that it made short work of it. If it breaks..... It's not from the welding.
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
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    Good i have welded up alot even multi pass welded 1/2 plate for a guilotine blade to put on fork truck so when drive next to what ever needed to be taken care of the blade would slice straight through. it didnt work but nevr broke a weld and we even bent the 1/2 plate steel but my little mig welder welds held up nice and strong and never cracked etc.
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    Re: Stretch you solid axle
    #10
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    Thanks for posting this Chikin. I have been reading about this because I want to extend my cv shafts. Is your shaft itself spliced then sleeved with the Dom? Or is it just the Dom? Are you running the diff or are the spiders glued?
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