You can buy them but they are not always cheap. Nor do they often contain all what you need for the motor you got.
So you put one together yourself.
Go to you favorite automotive store and buy a good vacuum pump. Its also a good thing while there to buy a manifold vacuum guage with a fuel pump pressure tester like older cars would use ( NOT a FUEL INJECTION pressure guage. WAY to high of a pressure!)
A good hand held vacuum pump will already have a vacuum guage on it. which is good for the negative pressure test of the crankcase. But for the positive you want a guage that also goes positive so you need the manifold/fuel pump pressure guage (it goes both positive and negative pressure. But only a few psi in each!)
You then need to hit the local hardware store. You are looking for PVC pipe end cpas and or copper end caps to match the rubber manifold your carb fits in. Measure the intake side of the boot and find one thats a good tight fit.
Then measure the exhaust side port. You will need to be able to seal this side too. In the same hardware store you should be able to find rubber pipe caps right near the other stuff. Again measure and find one that will fit tight.
Once the carb port and exhaust port have these caps on or in them put hose clamps to hold them good and sealed. You also need to seal the fuel pump port on many two strokes.
Once you can seal all the ports you need a way to get the pressure in the motor. If its a single cylinder with a fuel pump vacuum port on it thats a good way. If it does not have this then you will need to make a port in one of your caps you stuck in the exhaust or intake so you can add vacuum or a few pounds of pressure. (NEVER EVER EVER more than 6-10 psi and not over 6 if you have not glued the crank seals in!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Do not use an air hose!!!! You will blow the seals out. Fill a portable tank to about ten PSI then bleed it down to about 6 PSI.
So basically you need a vacum and pressure guage and a way to make vacuum and low PSI and anything you can to seal the motors intake and exhaust. As well as good quality hose and fittings to make sure they do not leak.
While at the harware store buy two spray bottles too. One for soapy water and one for clean pure water. The soapy water making bubbles one the 6 PSI pressure test is the easiest way to find a tiny leak that will likely grow.
Thread: Fl350 tuning
Results 11 to 20 of 27
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04-13-2015 07:47 AM
Now that NOBAMA has PROVEN he is the absolute WORST president in the history of history Jimmy Carter can thank him for stealing the dunce crown.
Lets hope the next guy repeals NObama care along with the rest of the stupid crap this blight on our windshield has done.
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04-13-2015 10:14 AM
All great advice as long as you've checked the basics first.
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04-13-2015 11:07 AM
That's what I was hoping to do. What else could it be. Carb is out of whack I think.
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04-13-2015 11:28 AM
I would consider the basics things like vacuum lines installed in the correct spots and not cracked or so hard they don't seal, good spark plug, good spark plug wire, good electrical connections, good compression, good fuel supply.
It sounds like a clogged jet but you mentioned that you already cleaned the carb.
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04-21-2015 02:54 PM
Did you ever get around to pressure testing the crankcase??
"Hello. My name is Dan and I'm addicted to buggies."
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04-21-2015 03:11 PM
I will add that if you have a bad crankcase seal nothing else matters.
Crankcase seals ARE the basics on a two stroke.
Its not that hard to check. The parts you buy can be reused again and again.
Above it was aslo mentioned the carb slide might be closed to far. Do you know how to check that?Now that NOBAMA has PROVEN he is the absolute WORST president in the history of history Jimmy Carter can thank him for stealing the dunce crown.
Lets hope the next guy repeals NObama care along with the rest of the stupid crap this blight on our windshield has done.
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05-02-2015 01:35 PM
Ok, i got it to idle fine, ordered sigma racing jet kit. Now I bog over 1/4 throttle? Smaller main? I have a 145 in it now.
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