1st Protolite Rebuild

[Protolite 2]

Well after a summer of racing, we are taking the first buggy we built & rebuilding it to match our current model. That 440 snowmobile motor just doen't have what it takes to keep up.

[Bugpac]

cool, more cars to trade paint with...what engine is this one getting?

[Gene]

I see the future of racing in one of those pics! Great looking kids!

Looks like you have a powderpuff coming up first to race the rebuild. The pit crew appears ready to support big sister achieve podium glory.

Lucky kids.

Gene

[Protolite 2]

This one is getting a 03 GSXR 600, It will be just like our other ones with a few mods we would like to try.

Thanks Gene, the kids really like helping out. This winter we are hopefully building them miniature versions with 5-8 hp karts so they can do some racing to.

[ProtoDie]

Well, we have been busy building, (and not typing) Here is an update on the rebuild.

The main cage is rebuilt with a new front and rear end. *I spent alot of time redesigning some new features into this build so we could get every tab and plate laser cut. This is a huge time saver now that I have the design changed.
I also changed the fuel cell design so that all the plates and pieces were waterjet and interlock like a puzzle, to make it easy on the welder to put together.
I am having this tig welded by a certified welder, so I will have to not do any grinding or clean up. The fuel pump mount was cnc milled, and will be welded in to the bottom, just like the 1st cars.

All the A arms are built and ready to go.

I made new cnc bearing retainers that get welded right into the motor plates and the rear wheel assemblies. There will be double bearings in all of these.

There will be a new pedal assembly up front, that is all laser cut. *The pedals will now be overhead, hanging down. The master cylinders will bolt right into the plate behind the dash, with plenty of adjustment.

We are working on the engine cradle and plates right now. *I have smaller plates that mount to the motor and then lock in and bolt to the cradle box, to make mounting the motor even easier.

Next I will be cnc milling the front spindles, and we should have the car up on all 4 wheels in few weeks.

Sure feels good to be building again. It is so nice having all these laser, waterjet, and cnc parts. It comes together so much quicker.
I think we *will be cutting 100hrs of the build because of this.

here are a few pics

[ProtoDie]

Here are some more.
If anyone needs a custom fuel cell sometime, I can design up the plates and send the file to your local waterjet house, or get them cut and ship them to be welded by your local welder. *
This is not the cheapest route, we will have around $350 into this one, but it sure fits nice. *
Back to the build, I hope to update pics in a couple of weeks again.

[boilermaker]

That looks like the kind of build that we all wish we could do. I can tell this isn't your first rodeo,i knew it already as i have pictures of your cars playing on slide show on computer along with some others i consider great. Keep on coming with info. *Boilermaker

[Rorty]

You've been a busy boy! Aren't keyed parts the greatest? Not only do they speed up the process, you and get any half trained monkey to weld the assembly and be assured it will be straight and accurate. *

I'm not being critical, just wondering; why do you double up the rear tube? Surely that adds unnecessary weight to an area that doesn't need that sort of reinforcement? Also, is there a reason you joined the ends of the new rear end onto the nerf bar diagonals rather than running them straight into the rear of the hip rails?

Keep it coming!

[elvergonmexicano]

I like the style of your buggy a lot...


seeems like you got a good rear design too...

[ProtoDie]

Thanks Boilermaker,,,,, cool to be in a slide show

Rorty,
We are using $7 sealed bearings on the drive train which lasted all summer. The double bearings are just trying to extend life on inexpensive bearings. *The new bearing retainers are real light, it will be just be the added weight of another bearing spinning.

The rear bars attach to the nerf bar diagonals for several reasons.

1. Different style, I like the way it works with the rear panel, kind of a intake look by the nerf bars

2.It provides a good mount location for the adjustable shock mounts

3. Provides good clearance for the rear shocks

here is a pic from Silver lake,,,showing the shock mounts