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    Secondary Helix selection questions
    #1
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    I have identified that my current helix is a straight cut with a Black/purple spring (160-240). Research suggest this set up is more for drag racing (upshifts quick, quick to top RPM and quick to back shift) as I do mostly trail riding, not the "ideal" configuration for my riding conditions. Also saw something saying turbo charged engines benefit from a different helix configuration (multi angle).

    So my questions...

    1) what are the trail riding guys using for secondary Helix & spring configurations (straight, progressive, multi angle)?
    2) After adding a turbo, has anyone found they needed to change out secondary set-up because of the turbo install?
    3) Suppliers. I found two places, SLP and Venom. Any other recommendations? I heard TEAM only deals with manufactures, not "general public"

    Knowing this is one of those subjective questions as we all have a "preferred" feel. I am looking more for general feed back, not necessarily specifics.

    Thanks, Frank
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #2
    Intense Moderator Rat4020's Avatar
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    I don't use a team, on mine Artic Cat roller driven is what ive had for 10yrs but as far as your upshifting to soon that has a ton too do with the spring rate more than the helix in a buggy application . I started with the yellow spring which is the standard for cat sleds my belts where not lasting long and the clutches where frickin hot and full of belt dust after a days ride ive tried straight cut and multicut the biggest difference that ive found was changing too the green spring that is the stiffest that cat has for sleds
    Since I changed too the grn spring and 52/48 helix temps are way down and belts don't blow anymore.
    After adding the turbo around 100hp gain I didn't touch the driven but had to add 10grams to the primary weights base weight. I found adding the turbo made the clutching better with less heat and belt and clutch wear.

    Black Magic is another team suppler
    Hope this helps a bit Frank
    The question is not if its gona roll. Its when ..

    That be some kind of church cruzzer or commuter bike thingy ?
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #3
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    Thanks for the info. Secondary running hotter than primary was what got me looking into the set-up. looked at the snowmobile, that uses same engine as mine, for reference and found only real difference was Helix. similar to what you have (steeper initial rate than lower rate at finish).

    Guess I should be happy helix's are fairly cheap
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #4
    Intense Moderator Rat4020's Avatar
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    A snowmobile engine in a sled is a lot different than in a buggy I've found.. You should try to aim a GoPro at the clutches and see what is going on I would bet when you mash the throttle the secondary is going to high gear way too soon. Also , when you let off do you hear the sheaves slap back?
    The question is not if its gona roll. Its when ..

    That be some kind of church cruzzer or commuter bike thingy ?
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
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    Yes, I can hear the secondary slam shut(releasing side pressure). And my understanding...the way to correct is to reduce the helix final angle. Is that correct? my understanding is that the secondary spring is what you adjust for belt side tension or address secondary heat issues. Does that sound correct ?

    we are stuck in a rain pattern for the next couple days, so I will try to get some video this weekend.

    I want to verify that the belt is fully seating in the secondary and have read that you can make a sharpie line on the sheave and verify travel distance by amount of sharpie line that has been removed (rubbed away). Have you ever heard of this or know of another way to check?
    Last edited by Frank; 09-25-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
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    Sharpie trick sounds like it would work
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #7
    Intense Moderator Rat4020's Avatar
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    I used the sharpie pen on my primary it worked . With the driven clutch I set the shims so a new belt rode about 1/8'' above it and after bout 45 gal of gas run or a seven day ride the belt rides bout even with the top. Now in a snowmobile you can remove a shim and the belt will the belt up above again but I just replace it and use the old as a spare.
    If your driven is slamming open when you mash it at takeoff pretty good chance a steeper angle helix is not going to solve your problem ,that tells me your spring is way too soft I would get a different stiffer spring and try that before the helix
    what engine is in your buggy? what primary clutch
    The question is not if its gona roll. Its when ..

    That be some kind of church cruzzer or commuter bike thingy ?
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #8
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I’m with Rat. Try upping the spring rate.
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #9
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    It is the immediate closing (taking pressure of the belt) of the secondary when I even slightly let off the gas that I'm hoping to change. I instantly loose my RPM's and any boost built up. hoping to find a way to slow down the secondary disengaging so quickly.

    Engine is a 750 cc, 2 Cyl, 4 Stroke made by Weber, who knew they made anything but carbs for Willy's, lol. Polaris used it in FST sleds from 06-13 with a different ECU.

    Clutches are both TEAM, Primary is Rapid response and Secondary is TIED Rapid reaction. Both look to be in good shape.
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    Re: Secondary Helix selection questions
    #10
    Millenium Member plkracer's Avatar
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    Heavier spring will keep the belt further out on the secondary, raising rpm in that situation.

    The helix is your torque sensing element, and is likely providing most of the clamping pressure under acceleration, but when you back off, the angle isn't contributing, and the primary shifts up without much effort. Stiffer secondary spring will likely raise rpm on acceleration as well.
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