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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #31
    Senior Member JD66's Avatar
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    Looking like the way to go is Intrepid hub and F150cv/stub, keep as many off the shelf parts as possible. I plan to run inboard brakes, but would like to leave the option open for outboard. I'm thinking about a 5 link setup, need to read through Slow Build by Engineer's build thread. I like the packaging for my spare tire (will be above the motor) better with the shocks forward of the rear wheels so thinking either 3 link or 5 link.
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #32
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    Yes i'm running a fixed 930 inner cv. Inboard brakes. But with the intrepid hub drill for chevy pretty sure you can run the hat/rotor that comes with the empi racetrim setup?3


    VW Brakes – Dune Buggy Braking Systems | AppleTreeAuto.com
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #33
    Senior Member JD66's Avatar
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    Ok, cool. I already have parts to run inboard brakes, so no need for brakes at the wheel hubs but nice for future changes if needed.
    Last edited by JD66; 05-14-2014 at 07:12 PM.
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #34
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    I'm assuming you have to run a spacer of some sort if not running outboard disc's?

    Is there someone that makes this spacer?

    When eliminating the brake rotor, there is a gap between the VW wide 5 adapter and the bearing assembly. I purchased all of my rear drive parts and forgot to take this into consideration. With the stub axle in the bearing assembly, there is no way to mount the wide 5 adapter without a solid surface to make up for the missing rotor.

    The cap on the wide five adapter hits the end of the micro stub by alot, it almost looks as though even with a brake rotor on the small 5 pattern the center would not go.

    Is there a spacer I'm missing between the micro stub and the bearing?
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #35
    Senior Member NoClue's Avatar
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    It's the rotor hat the makes up the difference. I ended up having the adapters machined out to fit.
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoClue View Post
    It's the rotor hat the makes up the difference. I ended up having the adapters machined out to fit.
    So you just did away with the small cap that covers the nut (36mm) on the adapter?

    The nuts that come with the adapter would have to be changed for shorter, as they have a shoulder on them right?
    Last edited by Vorra65; 04-03-2015 at 11:24 PM.
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #37
    Senior Member NoClue's Avatar
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    Ahh. I don't have one...yet. The adapters I have are from the empi/race trim kit. Planning on on eventually buying the caps, but they cover the lug nuts of the hub.

    Check starting from post 92 on my build thread.

    https://www.minibuggy.net/forum/proje...em-lol-10.html
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #38
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    Sometimes.........doh!

    Problem solved, much less expensive than having a machine shop CNC from stock.

    12mm 5x4 75 5x120 7mm 70 5 Chevy GMC Pontiac Olds 5LUG Flat Wheel Spacers | eBay
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    Re: Micro Stub Fundamentals
    #39
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    FYI I've toasted 3 Timken intrepid bearings (replaced under warrenty LOL) beacause the f150 splines are bottoming out before the cv cup pulls tight against the bearing. I'm running the 3/8 spacers but I used on the nut side. I had designed my non plunge setup with f150 cv right where it is and puting spacer on outside moved the cv 1/4" Thats too much for a non plunge setup.

    So I found some BIG washers at McMaster-Carr that are 1/8" thick and now it snugs up nicely.
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