Thread: Tazcar clutch

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    Tazcar clutch
    #1
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    Hello,

    I just purchased a used Tazcar with a 2.2 ecotec engine I took it out to Gordons for a day trip and it ate 3 belts, a friend of mine went through the same problem with his car but Niel from ATVR got his problem fixed for him, Im looking to do the work myself I really want to learn as much as I can so If something happens out at the dunes I can fix it myself any help would be appreciated.

    I did some searching on the site and found out a few things Im going to check the alignment, the drive faces are worn so im going to replace it should I replace with the Micro Belmont? should I replace the driven so both are new?

    I have no idea how the drive comes off is it splined or tapered? do i just get a Comet puller?

    also what are the part #'s for the drive and driven can I buy them online or are they special order from ATVR?

    are there any manuals I can buy?

    Thanks for any help I love my car once I get the belt issue worked out im sure I will really love it.
    Last edited by afastcar; 04-18-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
    #2
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Let's see...

    Clutch comes off w/a puller. It's a tapered snout that the primary is bolted to. The puller is a threaded rod with a section of it made so it fits into/through the adapter and pushes the clutch off the tapered snout. Purchase a puller for the clutch brand you have.

    If the faces are worn, then you may want to consider replacing it. Put a straight edge along the faces and see just how much of a bow has been warn into them.

    I hear that the Belmont clutch is awesome - it's a pretty piece too. It's also pricey. If the price doesn't scare you, it's probably the way to go.

    No clue on part numbers.

    The Team driven is pretty durable and darn near bullet proof. Check the faces of it also for straightness.

    The clutches are off the shelf. Neil figured out the spring and helix for the Team and just orders them from Team. The drive clutch, on the other hand, has custom weight arms that Neil has made for him. Talk to him for those items.

    If you want to learn all about CVT systems, purchase the Bible of the CVT world - Aaen Performance is the place to get it (and most of the parts you might want too). Olav Aaen helped develop the modern day CVT systems found in sleds. He writes in a manner that's easy to follow. He gets way deep into how they work too.
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    #3
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    K-fab pretty much covers all the bases. Also call Neil he will more than likely walk you through it. The olav book k-fab mentions is great, it helps wrap your mind around the CVT concept. Get an alignment bar, it will help get your offset right on. If you think you are shredding belts because of too much HP then get the micro belmont, I just got one and have not had a chance to try it out yet.
    Good luck and keep us posted
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    Last edited by bajaBrothers; 02-23-2011 at 10:28 PM.
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
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    thanks for the fast reply I take it this is the puller I need? NEW! COMET CLUTCH PULLER TOOL 108 EXP 4 PRO 217153A - eBay (item 250348758658 end time Apr-26-09 23:45:17 PDT)

    also I know the clutch faces are worn so Im going to replace the clutch im thinking about the Micro Belmont but cant find anyone that sells them or any info........

    has anyone had a problem with the rear main seal leaking on there Ecotec? I know the oil being slung onto the belt doesnt help at all.

    and where can I get a clutch alignment tool?
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    #5
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    I posted a link to the alignment bar I think the web site is hiperf.com
    My friend in Mesa can order you the micro Belmont. He and a couple of his friends also have tazcars.
    Let me contact him and I'll pm you his info.
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    Last edited by bajaBrothers; 02-23-2011 at 10:29 PM.
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
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    Quote Originally Posted by bajaBrothers View Post
    I posted a link to the alignment bar I think the web site is hiperf.com
    My friend in Mesa can order you the micro Belmont. He and a couple of his friends also have tazcars.
    Let me contact him and I'll pm you his info.

    Thanks for all your help I found some which one do I need there are a few of them?


    Hi-Performance Engineering Clutch Alignment Bars
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
    #7
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    You can make your own bar/do your own alignment.

    You have to make sure that the clutches are parallel to each other, not only looking down from the top of the machine, but also from the front (or back) of it too.

    To do so, you need a pair of straight edges.

    As looking down from above the car:
    Put one of the straight edges on the back side of the primary (drive) clutch.
    Put the other straight edge on the back side of the secondary (driven) clutch.

    You want both of the straight edges to be parallel to the ground. If you can attach them to the clutches so that they overlap a little that's even better.

    Now, as you look down at the two edges, are they parallel to each other? They will be offset probably around 1/2" or so, so don't expect the two edges to butt up against each other.

    This will show you if the back side of your clutches are parallel (and if the input shaft of the tranny and the engine's crank shaft are parallel) - at least in the axis from the top view.

    Now rotate the clutches (with the straight edges still attached) 90 degrees so that both of the straight edges are pointing up. You can now look at the edges of the two straight edges in relation to each other and see if they are parallel. Don't necessarily try to focus on both edges at the same time, instead, look at the, what will appear to be a, black line that shows up at the edges of the two straight edges. - if there's any sort of V between these two lines, then one of the components (engine or tranny) is not straight in the chassis.

    If both of these scenarios provide that your clutches are parallel, then move on to making sure that they are in alignment w/each other.

    This is actually very easy - two straight edges again.... Put one straight edge on the back side of the secondary clutch and point it towards the primary clutch (as if you were starting to check parallelism). Take the second straight edge and drop it into the fully open primary clutch so that it's sitting down between the clutch faces on the area that the belt would ride.

    Make sure that the two straight edges are parallel and then take the other end (not the one in the primary clutch) and see if it drops down in between the faces of the secondary clutch.

    If I had paint, I'd Yoshi-Cad this stuff for you... Not sure what the program is on this MacBook, as I'm still learning it.

    edit - borrowed my girlfriend's computer and used Yoshi-Cad... Drew it in "Top View" for you.
    Last edited by K-fab; 04-19-2009 at 06:50 PM. Reason: adding Yoshi-Cad pic to help explain my long windedness
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
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    Thanks again for all your help........ do you know what the exact offset is on the 2 clutches? you stated a 1/2" plus so does it need to be exact or somewhere between say 1/2" to 5/8"? im just trying to learn all I can.

    also is the primary spring loaded do I need a tool like the one for the power block clutch for the pilot that holds it together when i pull it off? so what im asking is will the face come flying at me when i pull the crank bolt out?
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    Re: Tazcar clutch
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Just guessing on the offset. No actual clue. It would vary with what combination of clutches you would use. By going through the setup I described above, you'd be able to figure out the offset by measuring the distance between the two parallel edges when they're attached to the clutch backs.

    The primary clutch will stay as one piece when you remove the bolt that holds it onto the engine and it will stay in on piece when you use the puller. The bolts around the top cap, that thread into the towers (where the weight arms swing) are what hold the spring in place. Fear not during clutch removal!
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