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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #21
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    The upper link is an a-arm that's mounted at an angle (back mounting points closer together than front mounting points). *It pushes the upper link of the bearing carrier forward as it gets to the upper and lower parts of the arc it travels through as it cycles.

    The drag link from in front, mounted lower on the bearing carrier, pulls against the a-arm and it causes toe change - it's really minor, but it works. *I think Jay said it's only .5 or 1 degree of change.

    His suspension also changes rear wheel camber a bunch as the suspension cycles - especially at full droop - his idea is to keep the contact patch as wide as possible at all times. *- It does a pretty good job.
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #22
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    The front of my cars have zero contact patch *scrub thru 20'' of travel.
    I didnt get that carried away with the mini im building. I did notice the difference in the pickup points in the picture.
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    Dyno report.
    #23
    Senior Member Philabuster's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    A local shop was hosting a "Dyno Day" for Miatas (girlfriend's car) and I asked if I could bring my car along to get it checked too. *They said no problem. *

    The techs were familiar with the CVT drivetrain, but the dozen or so people from the club were intrigued to say the least. *They strapped my car down tight to a Dynojet roller machine and hooked up the exhaust sniffer. *They were about to connect up the engine and I said that was not necessary. *Most car dynos are not equipped to deal with a CVT transmission as K-fab experienced with his testing. *I didn't want any data other than rear-wheel HP as I can monitor the engine RPM myself. *

    This data is going to be my baseline as I modify the clutches. *This data represents the Yamaha primary clutch fitted with Heel Clicker flyweights, Arctic Cat secondary clutch with 48/44 helix green spring @ #4 hole position (1 is loose with 5 being wound tight) and a Carlisle Ultimax 3 belt 138-5120U3. *Engine was holding a steady 10,000 RPM and climbing slowly to 10,200. *I am running 8:1 gears in the RPM gearbox and 31-10.50R15 Goodyear MTRs. *In retrospect, I should have increased my tire pressure to ~35 psi because the tires were pretty squished with only 10 psi in them as we cinched the ass end down over the rollers. *

    I was wondering why my car was not accelerating as quickly as I thought it would and the tech said the dyno drum I was spinning weighed about 3,000 LBS! *No wonder my belt was slipping when I hammered it right off the line.

    I had fun and will do it again as I get my car dialed in with my new goodies. *[smilie=ninja.gif]
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #24
    Senior Member Philabuster's Avatar
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    K-fab, [smilie=sign_help.gif]

    Would you move this thread to the "Show off your toys in here!" section for me? *It seems to fit there better. *

    Thank you.
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #25
    BANNED renegadespec1's Avatar
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    Philabuster,
    Those are some wicked arse kicking numbers ...We all need rear wheel dyno's...Around here it's seat of the pants,stop watches and the calculator...and I can't forget boxes of springs ,weights,jets,helixes,150 tape measure, and burnt up tires...
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #26
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    How is the D-dog holding up? *Anything you don't like. *I haven't got to ride mine much but so far I love it.
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #27
    Senior Member Philabuster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelerman\";p=\"41326
    How is the D-dog holding up? *Anything you don't like. *I haven't got to ride mine much but so far I love it.
    Car is holding up fine--in the storage unit. * *

    Between me getting sick and the summer heat, I have not driven it since February, *but that's not the car's fault. *

    The car runs fine, but here are a few things currently in process to add/modify:

    Clutching changes to reduce the engagement RPM (more campground friendly)
    Add an emergency brake (not a line lock)
    Replace the four transverse and two drag links with 1.25" 7075-T6 solid bar (Desert use/abuse)
    Upgrade the rear brake rotor and caliper to the model K-fab has on his 10 Dez car (Desert use/abuse)
    Some sort of airbox like on K-fab's original DezTaz (to reduce the intake noise)
    Steering stabilizer (Desert use/abuse)
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #28
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philabuster\";p=\"41631
    The car runs fine, but here are a few things currently in process to add/modify:
    Replace the four transverse and two drag links with 1.25" 7075-T6 solid bar (Desert use/abuse)
    Solid???

    First, I must ask - have you tagged either of the lower bars on anything yet? *Probably not... - they're about as apt to hit something as the front lower a-arms are. *They are really quite well protected. *I'm not saying it can't happen, just saying it's not something to worry about.

    Jay and I have discussed the leading lower transverse link a few time in regard to being out in the desert. *He and I have always felt & agreed that if there is a weak link in the system - from the point of view of being damaged, not design, it would be the leading one. *Still, the chances of tagging one, especially with the tire diameter you're running, are pretty minimal. *The rear link is protected by the front one and any blow hard enough to take out the front one is going to deflect the suspension enough that the rear's not going to get tagged - or won't get tagged with any amount of force.

    One idea that he and I tossed around was to take a piece of thin wall (.045) 2" o.d. aluminum tubing and put that around the transverse link - center the link in the tube and then fill the air space with something like Great Stuff expanding foam.

    The idea is to let the outer aluminum shell absorb any hit that may be introduced, the foam will spread the load and absorb the energy and the suspension should just deflect out of the way.

    If memory serves me from my Strength of Materials classes, solid bar is not stronger than a tube - especially in a bending situation. *The tube has more surface area (inner and outer) and is more resistant to the shear forces than a solid bar is. *A piece of 1.25 x .120 4130 is going to be much stronger than a piece of solid 7075. *The 4130 will also deflect and return to shape while the AL will just bend. *Chromoly has a great ability to spring back into place unlike AL.

    The drag links are safe - any sort of hit that they might see would be a glancing blow - unless you're riding with me again and we get sideways and slide it into something. *

    I feel you're over thinking a problem that's very unlikely to arise. *If you're that worried, how about just carrying a spare link with you? *It will weigh a lot less than changing out the links to solid bar too. *I'd just carry a couple spare heims and not worry about the bar if it were me.

    We'll have to get together again when I get to come back out. *I want to take the 10Dez out where we ran your car and do a bunch of testing when I get the chance. * I'll call you when I do. * * *Sucks - I was supposed to leave this Monday for a couple week's worth of shake down, testing and setup of the car. *But nooooo... I had to go and take myself out for a couple months. [smilie=banghead.gif] *Oh well.
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #29
    Senior Member Philabuster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K-fab\";p=\"41639
    First, I must ask - have you tagged either of the lower bars on anything yet? *Probably not...
    Yep, I tagged the right side forward transverse bar (11/2006) about a month after you drove my car. *This was no slight hit, but I whacked something HARD in the trail. *The link bent, but it did not break. *I straightened it reasonably well with a heavy duty ratchet strap and then drove the car a month later at Glamis with Jay. *

    As you (and Jay) have stated in previous discussions, the 5-link design is not as robust to punishment as a trailing arm setup, but they are much easier to repair in the field. *I have seen custom tie rods and drag links made from 7075-T6 (Jeeps and Scouts) bend and flex while wheeling and spring back to normal after being pushed into rocks that would otherwise kink and bend the original steel and aftermarket 4130 components.

    I understand that tubing is stronger for the same weight of material than if made from solid, but the moment a relatively thin tube kinks due to a sharp strike, it looses quite a bit of it's strength and collapses.

    I do like your idea of a cushion or 'crush zone' surrounding the lower link though. *This would absorb the impact better and not transfer so much of the impact to the rod ends or mounting points on the frame/bearing carrier. * [smilie=blowkiss.gif] *
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    Re: Desert Dog Coyote - Test drive report.
    #30
    Senior Member Philabuster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K-fab\";p=\"41639
    We'll have to get together again when I get to come back out. *I want to take the 10Dez out where we ran your car and do a bunch of testing when I get the chance. * I'll call you when I do. * * *Sucks - I was supposed to leave this Monday for a couple week's worth of shake down, testing and setup of the car. *But nooooo... I had to go and take myself out for a couple months. [smilie=banghead.gif] *Oh well.
    Cool. *Sounds good. *I would like to ride shotgun in the 10 Dez when you bring it out. *

    I've had enough broken bones from riding 'murdercycles' that I refuse to ride them anymore. *But then again, I don't necessarily subscribe to your 'motto'* either. * * * It hurts too much. *



    *For those that don't know:

    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'" - Anonymous
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