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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #11
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odyknuck View Post
    Just reverse the polarity on the fan to make it run the opposite direction. Yu really want the fan to pull thru the radiator as it is much more efficient.
    Often the fan blades are designed to go one direction. Just reversing polarity may not yield the results you're looking for if the fan is this style.
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #12
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    My fan is like that . It pulls much harder than it pushes. Blade shape
    if your not livin on the edge you're takin up too much room
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #13
    Millenium Member Lug-Nuts's Avatar
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    The little details, fan blades being directional.

    I'm using a civic radiator, and it only get s warm if I let it idle.

    When the stock fan kicks in it ccccold down in just about 20 second s

    Goes from 220 down to 180 quick!
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #14
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    Straight blades can usually be reversed w/polarity w/o much change. Curved blades the reversing has a big impact on cfm.
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #15
    Super Moderator Wheels's Avatar
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    if i were to switch my radiator around.. keeping the fan on the front side(essentially, the opposite side it came from the factory on), any issues with this?
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #16
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheels View Post
    if i were to switch my radiator around.. keeping the fan on the front side(essentially, the opposite side it came from the factory on), any issues with this?
    Once again, it goes back to the fan shape. If it's a puller (back side mount), then just reversing the polarity may not be the most efficient way.

    Take a look at the fan and see what the blades look like - post pix of it - and we can decipher if it's a directional fan or not.

    If it is directional, if you can reverse polarity and if the blades will come off of the shaft, you can reverse the setup and have it work right. It's all about making the fan spin in the direction it was designed.
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #17
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    Please allow me to chime in here. I am building this hot-rod thingamawhatsit in my garage, and have been mulling over where to put the fan, because, lets face it, there isn't much room to spare.

    Radiator- Should be mounted with cap at least slightly higher than the highest cooling port on the engine. This will allow for quick and easy bleeding of air out of the system. Air pockets create steam, and steam is hotter than the coolant, and WILL damage internals and cause overheating. If you can't mount it like this, then making movable for filling is an easy option. Another option is to run an inline petcock or bleeder port at the top of the cooling system, whether on the engine or one of the hoses. Mounting in just about any location is possible, as long as you can get air through it, and the air out of it.

    Fan- Puller type fans are close to 100% efficient, add shrouds, and they become very effective. Putting the fan in front of the radiator drops the fan efficiency to 60-70%, based on air flow disturbance in front of the cooling fins. Of course, should you decide to run it in a pusher set up, DO NOT add shrouds, that would only block off fins and drop efficiency even more. Many 2 wire fans can be reversed, just switch the polarity and make sure it flows the direction you want. Multiple speed fans get a little trickier, and should be avoided if possible.

    Coolant- sport bike coolant additives, such as water wetter, and redline coolant claim as much as 15 degree drop in coolant temps, and having used them in the past, I really couldn't tell the difference on the street, but might be worth the couple bucks in extreme conditions. Many people mistake coolant to be the end all, be all to cooling system performance. In fact, water has a much higher heat sink ability over coolant, so if you run the mix a little light, you should see an improvement. Coolant is still needed as a lubricant for the internal moving parts and corrosion inhibitor, so running all water is not recommended.

    Water pump/thermostat- Make sure they are in good working order. Might want to splurge and grab a new t-stat for cheap insurance. I have seen water pump impellers either come off the driven shaft of corrode the blades right off, so might be worth inspecting as well.

    Source- Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
    Last edited by Masteryota; 02-09-2014 at 07:07 AM. Reason: me no spell
    ASE and Toyota Master
    Buggy building Trainee
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    Re: Radiator mounting do's and don'ts
    #18
    Senior Member bamabuggy's Avatar
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    Hey guys fixing to mount rad in my piranha the flow is bottem is cool to the pump right
    One GSXR 600 piranha One unfinished TL1000R double seat torque monster One 800 polaris buggy
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