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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    This Is The Second Brake System I tried , it is working better that the first brake system set up I showed in the previous post. I am showing the details for this vacuum brake booster for information only. After testing this setup I found it does not produce enough braking power to be to used on the Yamaha. This is not something that will produce good results went you use a hand master cylinder to drive the system.

    I will next start on installing a HYDRATECH brake booster (also called Hydro Boost) this type of brake booster requires a GM power steering pump that is driven by a engine fan belt.

    I am showing the details for this vacuum brake booster for information only.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I am using a vacuum brake booster on this set up. The vacuum is produced by a vacuum pump running off the buggy electrical system. I built a yellow bracket stand to hold the brake booster and parts for the booster. I am going to call this the brake assembly tray. This tray will set in the back bed of the Yamaha YXZ 1000 there is lots of room in the back bed.

    Vacuum brake boosters have a diaphragm that has a vacuum on both sides, when the brake is applied atmospheric is applied on one side of diaphragm. This causes a force to be applied to the shaft that is pushing on the brake master cylinder, this gives you more braking power. Some vacuum brake boosters have two diaphragms these produce more power than a vacuum brake boosters with a single diaphragm. Vacuum brake boosters come in 7 inch diameter single or dual diaphragm, 8 inch diameter single or dual diaphragm, 9 inch diameter single or dual diaphragm and 11 inch diameter single (only) diaphragm . A 9 inch diameter dual diaphragm has the most surface area and will produce the most power. I am using a 9 inch diameter dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster, Tuff Stuff Vacuum Brake Boosters part number 2224NB from Summit Racing
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-2224nb

    On my last buggy I used a Hydratech brake booster (also called Hydraboost) this is the most powerful brake booster you can buy. This kind of brake booster requires a GM power steering pump that is driven off a engine fan belt, the Yamaha does not have a external fan belt pump pulley to drive a power steering pump. I am going to have to use a brake booster that is electrical powered. I using a motorcycle hand master cylinder to drive a slave cylinder is to push on a lever arm to amplify the movement. When the brake master cylinder on the steering wheel is pulled in all way the slave cylinder only moves about 0.15 inch . The lever arm set up gives me about 0.35 inch movement at the brake booster. Using a Coleman push slave cylinder with a 0.625 dia piston.







    This picture shows the steering wheel. The hand brake master cylinder is on the left side of the steering wheel.



    For the steering wheel I started out using 2009 Honda CBR1000RA master cylinders with a 0.68 inch diameter pistons and later changed to Magura 195 radial master cylinder that has a 20mm diameter piston (0.787 inch diameter piston). I needed to be able to move more fluid to get things to work better. As the master cylinder piston size gets larger the pressure the piston produces drops lower, but the larger piston can move more fluid. Other company's that make hand operated master cylinders are "BRAKING" and "SHINDY PRODUCTS"



    The Yamaha foot brake pedal has a switch on it that tells the ECU when the brake pedal is depressed this is a required function for the buggy to run. I am using AN-3 steel braided lines so I got a inline pressure sensor fitting that fits on the AN-3 steel braided lines.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890002/reviews/ Pressure switch part number SUM-890002 from Summit Racing
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2881 AN-3 T-fitting to connect line pressure switch to AN-3 steel braided lines part number AER-FBM2881 from Summit Racing







    I am pointing to the inline pressure sensor I installed in the AN-3 steel braided lines for the brake










    This is the side of the brake assembly tray that faces toward the back of the buggy. This shows the yellow bracket stand to hold the brake parts. The big round part is the vacuum brake booster. There is a vacuum reservoir tank in the lower middle of the picture. The lever arm for the slave cylinder and brake booster is at left side of the picture. On the right side of the picture is the electric vacuum pump. The little black boxes towards the front of the picture are the pressure reduction valves so I can reduce pressure in the front or back brake line to balance the brakes













    This is the side of the brake assembly tray that faces toward the front of the buggy.



    This picture shows the lever arm. The slave cylinder is the red part at the bottom of the picture. The master cylinder on the steering wheel actuates the slave cylinder and pushes its shaft moves outward, the level arm pivots and pushes the brake booster in which applies the brakes. The lever arm is set up to amply the movement from the slave cylinder this reduces the force produced at the brake booster end of the lever arm. The slave cylinder does not produce enough movement to operate the brake booster, so the lever arm set up is needed to amply the slave cylinder movement.






    This picture shows the slave cylinder.





    This shows the pressure reduction valves so I can reduce pressure in the front or back brake line to balance the brakes. SSBC pressure reduction valve part number A0707-1 from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...07-1/overview/




    This picture shows check valve on the brake booster , this check valve holds the vacuum in the brake booster.




    This shows the vacuum reservoir tank, I am pointing at the check valve on the tank, this check valve holds the vacuum in the tank. Run the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump to this check valve. COMP Cams Vacuum Canisters part number 5200 from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-5200/overview/






    This picture shows the vacuum pump. The is CVR electric vacuum pump part number VP655. I got the pump from SUMMIT Racing.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-vp655
    This pump will increase levels to 20 in. of vacuum when it drops below 15 in. of vacuum automatically . You need a pump that is able to do this or the pump will run all the time and burn up the motor.




    I am using a Wilwood aluminum tandem master cylinder 1.125 dia pistons part number 260-8556 (from Summit Racing) bolted to the brake booster. This is the master cylinder that is connected to the brake calipers.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...FYs6gQodb-cAYQ
    Last edited by stress; 01-19-2018 at 01:13 AM.
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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    For the brake lines and the clutch line I am using EARLS AN-3 brake lines and fittings
    https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

    I order my EARLS stuff from
    Summit Racing (discount mail order company)
    JEGS Racing (discount mail order company)
    Pegasus Racing ( good place to get hard to find fittings) https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...oryID=PLUMBING

    The AN-3 EARLS hose is steel braided line , I cut it with a chop saw. The hose end fittings are easy to install.

    I removed the rubber brake lines on the A-Arms these line flex and reduce your pressure. You can feel difference after converting to AN-3 EARLS hose is steel braided lines.



    The following pictures show the AN-3 EARLS hose is steel braided lines running from the steering wheel to the back of the buggy



    The brake line and clutch coming from the steering wheel












    Last edited by stress; 01-20-2018 at 01:22 AM.
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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    Streamline Brake has a larger front brake disk kit on there website. They have cut a alot of surface area out of the disk with slots. I question the way they have cut up the disk, I am not planning on trying their disk.
    http://www.factoryutv.net/product/st...ig-brake-kits/



    Tower Works Motorsports has front brake kit that has larger brake calipers and larger brake disk
    http://towerworksmotorsports.com/yam...0r-big-brakes/
    Last edited by stress; 01-26-2018 at 12:28 AM.
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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    This is my first try at installing a electric push button shifter. I Had Problems Getting This To Work, I Have Remove it From The Buggy. I do not think this is a bad shifter , I think there is something about the Yamaha YXZ 1000 that is causing the problems.

    The electric shifter I tried after the KILTRONIC shifter is a PROSHIFT electric shifter.
    As I have been e-mailing PROSHIFT I am getting a better understanding of the problems I am having. It takes more force on the shift lever to shift from first gear through neutral to second gear than the force required to shift from third gear to fourth gear. It takes more force on the shift lever to shift from second gear through neutral to first gear than the force required to shift from fourth gear to third gear. The shift actuator is not producing a force large enough to make the shift from first gear to second gear and the same for shifting from second gear to first gear. This is most likely the problem I was having with the KLIKTRONIC electric shifter also.

    This is a KLIKTRONIC electric shifter it operates from push buttons, it has an actuator that shifts gears and it has small control box. This is what they call a open loop system this means this system is not wired in your gear position sensor on the Yamaha transmission. So this system does not know what gear you are in. If you push the button it shifts.
    http://www.kliktronic.co.uk/

    The KLIKTRONIC electric shifter comes with a book that explains the details of installing it, this is a good book. This is a universal kit, you need to build brackets .


    This is the problem I am having :
    It takes about 3 tries to shift to first gear. Then when I shift to second gear it goes in to neutral , 80% of the time. Once I get to second gear every thing works like it should. It will upshift from second to third , no problems. It will upshift from third to fourth , no problems. It will upshift from fourth to fifth , no problems. It will downshift from fifth to fourth, no problems. It will downshift from fourth to third, no problems. It will downshift from third to second, no problems. When I downshift from second to first gear it goes in to neutral , 80% of the time.

    I spent about 40 hours trying to adjust this shifter and nothing helps. I do not think this a bad shifter , I think there is something about the Yamaha transmission that is causing the problem. The transmission acts like if a fast shift is made going to first gear or second gear it wants to go in to neutral. There is no way to adjust the shifter speed with the actuator. This system shifts in 70 milliseconds, this is fast. I have no way to check out this idea.






    I made a bracket to mount the electric actuator mounted to the frame. I welded bracket to the frame.





    This picture show the electric actuator mounted to the frame







    I made a bracket to bolt to the Yamaha gear shift lever for the actuator shaft to bolt to.



    Later on I made a new bracket for the actuator shift shaft to bolt to. I did this to get more adjustment , this did not help.






    I welded a piece of aluminum to the reverse lever and mounted a shift button on it. With with this you can pull the reverse lever back and hit the shift button to go into reverse.
    Last edited by stress; 01-26-2018 at 12:56 AM.
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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    Yeah I know mean. I had one that I used and well it felt like you had to turn the wheel almost 2 inches before it would move the wheels. It was just worn not.
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    Re: Paraletic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    For people looking for hand control ideas the following link has a lot of posts about hand controls

    RZR Modifications for the Disabled - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net
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    Re: Paralytic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    This is my second try at installing a electric push button shifter. I Have Removed This From My Yamaha I Could NOT Get This to Work Correctly. I do not think this is a bad shifter , I think there is something about the Yamaha YXZ 1000 that is causing the problems.

    I have been e-mailing PROSHIFT and they have been giving me setting to change in the software, nothing has helped so far. PROSHIFT says they have seen some models of motorcycles that have a lot of slop in the shift drum and this causes the electric shifter to hit neutral when shifting to first gear and second gear.

    As I have been e-mailing PROSHIFT I am getting a better understanding of the problems I am having. It takes more force on the shift lever to shift from first gear through neutral to second gear than the force required to shift from third gear to fourth gear. It takes more force on the shift lever to shift from second gear through neutral to first gear than the force required to shift from fourth gear to third gear. The shift actuator is not producing a force large enough to make the shift from first gear to second gear and the same for shifting from second gear to first gear. This is most likely the problem I was having with the KLIKTRONIC electric shifter also. I tried many things to get this to work but nothing helps. At this point PROSHIFT has stopped replying to my e-mails for help. Also you wire this system into the coil signal wire so it control box can get a tachometer reading , but the control box was picking up noise in the wiring and could not get a good tachometer reading. I had several software problems with the control box.

    This is a PROSHIFT PS3.5 electric shifter it operates from push buttons, it has an actuator that shifts gears, small control box and auto-blipper box that blips the throttle when you downshift . This is what they call a closed loop system this means this system is wired in your gear position sensor on the Yamaha transmission. So this system knows what gear you are in. If you push the button it shifts.
    http://www.proshift.com/proshift_ps35_gearshift_system

    The PROSHIFT PS3.5 electric shifter comes with a book that explains the details of installing it, this is a good book. This is a universal kit, you need to build brackets .

    You connect your computer the shifter control box and teach the system to shift. It records the voltages reading for each gear , this how the system knows what gear the transmission, I had a lot of problems with the software while doing this and PROSHIFT was having a hard time helping me with the problems . You can set how long each shift will take. You can set how long the auto-blipper will last in each gear. There are many other setting you can make to the system.

    This is the problem I am having :
    It takes about 3 tries to shift to first gear. Then when I shift to second gear it goes in to neutral , 50% of the time. Once I get to second gear every thing works like it should. It will upshift from second to third , no problems. It will upshift from third to fourth , no problems. It will upshift from fourth to fifth , no problems. It will downshift from fifth to fourth, no problems. It will downshift from fourth to third, no problems. It will downshift from third to second, no problems. When I downshift from second to first gear it goes in to neutral , 50% of the time.








    This a picture of the PROSHIFT system





    I welded brackets to the frame to hold shift actuator.


    I bolted a aluminum plate to the brackets I welded on the frame



    This shows the Yamaha YXZ shift lever, you can see a large hole in the lever. I am going to mount a shaft in this hole for the shift actuator






    This is the shift lever that came in the kit. The other part is a 2010 Yamaha YZ450 shift shaft. I cut part of the shaft off and welded beads on the shaft and then used a grinder to get it round again but now its bigger diameter. I am going to slide this into the Yamaha YXZ1000 gear shift lever.



    I slid the shaft into the Yamaha YXZ1000 gear shift lever



    I welded the two parts together






    This is the shift actuator mounted to a plate









    This shows everything installed





    This is a picture of the insides of the shift actuator






    This a picture of the auto blipper box



    This shows the end of the auto blipper cable mounted to a throttle body box I made. The auto blipper cable is the cable towards the bottom of the box. This cable has a rod that push on the yellow throttle pulley part and this opens the throttle (the auto blip) the PROSHIFT control box does this . Go to the section where I showed how I modified the throttle body for details.





    Because the PROSHIFT is a closed loop system it is wired in your gear position sensor on the Yamaha transmission. So this system knows what gear you are in. So when you shift in to first gear the system knows you are in first gear. When you try to shift to reverse the system will not let you shift to first gear with the reverse lever pulled back because it knows you are in first gear. The only way you can shift to reverse is to manually shift. I needed a way to have reverse lever to stay on by its self so I could use my hands work the clutch and the manual shift lever. I got a 8 speed bicycle shifter setup and built a reverse lever that will stay in place by its self.








    I made a bracket to hold the bicycle 8 speed shifter



    The reverse lever is on in this picture


    The reverse lever is in the off in this picture
    Last edited by stress; 01-26-2018 at 01:45 PM.
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    Re: Paralytic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    I changed the tires on the Yamaha, it came with MAXXIS Bighore tires. My last buggy had MAXXIS Bighore tires and I was always getting flats. There is no way I going to drive on the MAXXIS tires. The new tire are GBC Kanati Mongrel Radial ATV 27x9-14 Front tires and GBC Kanati Mongrel Radial ATV 27x11-14 back tires.
    These tires keep the Yamaha at the same seat height. I did not want the buggy to get taller this only makes getting in and out of the buggy harder.



    This how I broke the bead on the old tires uses the my trailer tong jack













    Last edited by stress; 01-20-2018 at 01:37 AM.
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    Re: Paralytic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    I have a LifeStand wheelchair it is a standing wheelchair. I depend on this wheelchair to be able to most of the stuff I do in the shop. I can stand in front of the drill press, the grinder, mill, hydraulic press and the buggy to do work. This wheelchair restraints you legs just below the knees , this also makes your body stable in a setting position. I can lean out of the side of my wheelchair and not fall out of the wheelchair.

    This shows some of the ways I work on stuff. Keep in mine it is going to take longer to do things from a wheelchair. Over time you get better at working from a wheelchair.
    Because you have muscles that are paralyzed you will not as strong as a normal person. Your arms will get tired quicker

    A large part of doing things is figuring out how to support your upper body by leaning on a cushion or some part of the buggy.


    Here the wheelchair is in the setting position. The side arm rest that I have my arms on can pivot so they can act as a upper body restraint then I go to a standing position.


    Here I am using the side lever arms to raise the wheelchair to a standing position. There are gas shocks connected to the wheelchair that lift part of your weight.
    The side arm rest have been pivoted so they can act as a upper body restraint .


    Here I am in the full standing position. The side arm rest have been pivoted so they can act as a upper body restraint .







    In this picture I have a cushion on top of the fuel tank. I use the cushion to support my body weight when I lean out the side of the wheelchair. I do not need to use my hands to support my body, so hands will be free to work with tools




    In this picture I am leaning out the side of the wheelchair on a cushion that is supporting my body weight. I used this when I was working on the throttle body, I spent a lot of time in this position.




    The wheelchair restraints you legs just below the knees , this also makes your body stable in a setting position. I can lean out of the side of my wheelchair and not fall out of the wheelchair.




    When I was working on the front of the buggy , I would pivot the upper body restraint out the way and lay the cushion on the buggy and lean on the buggy with my elbows on the cushion to support my weight . I had my hands free to work with tools.





    In this picture I have the cushion on a crate and I can lean on the this to support my weight


    To make it easier to work on the buggy I take the wheels off so I can get the wheelchair closer to the buggy. In this picture I needed the buggy a low position so put a 2X4 wood block under the A-Arm ends and lowered the buggy down on them with jacks. If I need the buggy in a higher position I use jacks to raise the buggy and put jack stands under the buggy.
    Last edited by stress; 01-20-2018 at 01:50 AM.
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    Re: Paralytic (how to make a hand control steering wheel)
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    Welding tips for a paraplegic


    On my welding table I welded a 1 inch tall lip at the front of the table to stop any hot metal sparks from rolling off the table on to me and my wheelchair. When I TIG weld I lean my arm or elbow on the vise on my welding table to support my upper body.
    When you TIG weld it takes two hands, one hand is working the electric torch , the other hand is used to feed the filler rod into the weld. So you need to lean your arm or elbow on something to support your upper body. I only TIG weld if I I am welding at the welding table



    I think the best type of welder for a paraplegic is a MIG welder (wire feed welder), you can weld with one hand with a MIG. When you pull the trigger on MIG gun, wire comes out and starts the weld. When I am welding on the buggy I use a MIG. I can use one hand to support my upper body and weld with the other hand.



    I got a MIG welder that has wheels . I can push the welder next to the buggy and weld on the buggy.



    I have two leather welding aprons that I lay in my lap when I am welding in a setting position. When you are welding hot metal sparks will land in your lap.






    When you are welding you need to have a fire extinguisher next to you. Being in a wheelchair you can not move as fast as normal person , so you need the fire extinguisher next to you. There will be the cable for the MIG gun on the floor , the ground clamp cable on the floor and the power cable for the MIG on the floor . When you try to move fast your wheelchair is going to get hung up on all the cables on the floor.
    Last edited by stress; 01-20-2018 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Ya gotta remove the s from https!
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