Busa clutch adjustment

[midgetll_busa]

Hi everyone,
I am facing little problem in hayabusa powered mini truck clutch adjustment, the clutch won't engage, i will list the procedures done and if they wrong please guide me.

- I lift the the car ( engine not running)
- clutch bleeded
- i saw the rod displaced around 3mm when i pressed the clutch lever
- the wheels won't turn when i put into gear and pressed the clutch. Only wheels free when the gear in Neutral

- is this normal or not?

Note: brooks clutch springs installed and new clutch kit as well.

Thanks in advance

[K-fab]

This sounds like the clutch won't disengage. It's engaged, so you're not getting any slip when you actuate it.

I'm going to guess that you still have air in the system and are not getting enough throw.

What are you using for a master cylinder? Where is the bleed for the slave cylinder (the one that actuates the clutch on the engine). Is that nipple below or above the master cylinder? Can you post any pictures?

[plkracer]

My clutch sticks a little after sitting, it takes a pretty good shock to break the plates free with the wheels off the ground.

Did you check your stack up height? I know there is a maximum before it binds up tight.

I'll check tomorrow to see how far my clutch rod moves.

[midgetll_busa]

Dear K-fab,

thanks for your prompt replay,

I bled air from the upper nipple which has rubber cap.
I am using bike hand master cylinder now and OEM slave cylinder+ support because the previous slave cylinder broken while bleeding the air using car clutch master cylinder by foot pedal. Hence I am using as a prototype bike clutch master cylinder to avoid same thing happening.
is there any other than the top nipple? honestly I didn't recognize this
regarding the pictures I will post them whenever I reach the garage.
Dear K-fab, I mentioned that the engine is not running when I did the adjustment. so is it necessary to start the engine then bleed the clutch? because still engine wiring harness in progress.

thanks for your input dear

[midgetll_busa]

Dear plkracer,

I don't have any idea about the clutch stack up height, because the clutch assembled by one of the famous bike shop here in my country, so my engine is gen 2 hayabusa.

thanks and waiting your feedback about clutch rod

[K-fab]

I agree with plk - the clutch packs can stick when they've not been used for a while. It might be worthwhile to put it in gear, have someone disengage the clutch (pull the lever on the master cylinder) and rock the vehicle back and forth and see if that helps break the clutch free. My KTM350 does this same thing.

Does the clutch lever have any sort of resistance or does it pull very easily, like it's not doing anything? You should have some resistance, like it's moving stuff, not just an easy pull all the way in like it's not doing anything.

[midgetll_busa]

I agree with plk - the clutch packs can stick when they've not been used for a while. It might be worthwhile to put it in gear, have someone disengage the clutch (pull the lever on the master cylinder) and rock the vehicle back and forth and see if that helps break the clutch free. My KTM350 does this same thing.

Does the clutch lever have any sort of resistance or does it pull very easily, like it's not doing anything? You should have some resistance, like it's moving stuff, not just an easy pull all the way in like it's not doing anything.

hey K-fab,

yes the clutch lever got resistance when the system bleeded and the clutch slave rod is move as well. I will follow what you said to make clutch free. to put in gear and pull the clutch lever then try to push the car forward and pull backward. I hope it will work. I will come to you after finishing this trick.

thanks