Help with Brake Line setup?

[rgvkid]

How's it going guys! It's been awhile but Im trying to make some time to get back to the buggy setup. I'm in need of better braking!
The original brake setup just isn't pushing what it should. I've looked into these factory Joyner/Roketa Master cylinders and they all seem to not do so well. So I picked up a few parts to try and get better braking.

First off, I got a CNC single port 3/4 Master cylinder. I'm hoping that it will be suffice to run 4 way calipers on all 4 corners. First time running a single port Master.
Maybe some of you guys are more familiar with this Mastercylinder.


K-fab had recommended a Proportion valve to help getting better braking along with possible parking brake. So I picked up this cheapy from Amazon.
Also, my current setup.

[rgvkid]

So this is what I was thinking. But I'm not sure exact what size brake lines to be using. Also, is it ok to be running 3 way adapters or should I get a 5 way adapter?

[K-fab]

That should work but you want the valve on the front line, not the rear. You bias out front so you can initiate slides and such with the back brakes. They need to be full power all the time.

[K-fab]

Put the parking brake on the rears too.

Tees will work just fine, btw

[mech_head6]

I would not recommend putting the prop valve in the front line. You'll be giving up stopping brake performance to be able to lock the rears.

Is there a reason you switched to a single port master cylinder? You no longer have a redundant system. What is the bore size of the original?

Do you have the same calipers on all corners?

[rgvkid]

Thanks for the insight guys.

Mech, I tried rebuilding the old master along with bleeding the lines over and over again. I just can't get the wheels to lock up.
The new Master is 3/4, do you think I will have a problem?

On Buggynews there's a few threads about how bad these masters are and one guy swapped it out for s Ford Escort master which worked great. But it had a plastic reservoir attached.

I got this CNC Master brand new for $50 bucks so I figured it would probably work better then the master that's on there now.

The rear calipers are bigger, I think the are Geo Metro calipers.

K-Fab, I get what your saying about the fronts to rears. I also remember that your a Double Footer Rally style! 👍
And for the price of the valve, might as well get 2 for parking brake!

[mech_head6]

No doubt a non-leak in master is better than a leaking one.

All OEM UTV have plastic reservoirs. They will be fine unless overly exposed on your car.

Are you planning to use the prop valve as a parking brake? How does that work?

[K-fab]

I would not recommend putting the prop valve in the front line. You'll be giving up stopping brake performance to be able to lock the rears.

I'll argue this. If you put the valve in the rear you will begin locking the front wheels prematurely and also induce understeer under braking. It'll push worse the more you bias.

The idea of the the bias valve is to start with it so that all four wheels lock up and then be able to dial out front braking. I always point the lever forward indicating full front bias (all four wheels lock up at same time). As the lever comes back it dials out front power.

This will let you brake slide to set chassis rotation through both weight biasing forward and increasing the ability to get the rear end loose while still having maximum steering traction because the fronts are now doing more steering through gaining what would be braking traction.

Its sort of like turn brakes for a spool rear drive train.

Ever ride a dirt bike? You steer them through the use of the back brake as much as you do with the bars. It's similar in the car but you use a lever to control it.

[Lance-W]

The proportioning valve he picked is only $25. Buy two and put them on both and figure it out from there. I've always run them on the rear line............maybe that's just a paradigm from street cars though.