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    Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
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    Millenium Member standfast's Avatar
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    I had a hard time finding out any info on wiring a Kawasaki for buggy/race use so I went through it and figured it out the old fashioned way. Coincedently it appears all the techniques to wire it up are very similar to the Suzuki 600/750/1000/Busa. I am guessing that most newer fuel injected Kawasaki bikes will be similar as well. Here is the ZX14 specific info though. Hopefully this can save others some time.

    Here is the run down on bypassing antitheft and unused circuits

    Ignition and Anti-theft Circuit

    If you are not going to use the stock ignition key tumbler, you are going to need a resistor inline one of the wires at the ignition key switch. There is a 20-gauge GREY wire that runs from the ignition switch directly to the ECU. The white wire at the switch bundle of wires is the 12v from the battery. The brown wire is the ignition on wire so you can put your ignition toggle switch or whatever between these wires. You want to tie that grey antitheft wire into the brown wire but with a 1/4 watt 100ohm resistor in between them so the signal back to ECU is dropped to the appropriate voltage. Without this, the engine will not run. You can get the resistor at radio shack.

    Side Stand Switch

    Just connect the two wires. One is black/yellow and the other is green/white. These colors apply to the harness side of the connector, not the switch side. You can use this as a antitheft system with a hidden switch somewhere if you like that bridges this circuit.

    Clutch Switch

    This is referred to the starter lockout switch in the wiring diagram and is located in the left handlebar switch housing bundle of wires. You also connect these two wires to bypass this. You can also run this to a 2 prong brake pressure sensor in your hydraulic clutch line as a safety measure if you like. You can get the pressure switch here at the very bottom of the page. Buggy Throttle,Cable Brakes & Hydraulics - Page 1

    Engine Stop Switch

    This is located in the right handlebar switch housing bundle. This can be run to a safety switch or simply connected. It is either one of the red wires on the harness side of the connector and the brown/white wire.

    Engine Start Switch

    This is also located in the right handlebar switch housing bundle. This is the circuit that you will want to use a momentary push button switch on that will actually control the starter. It is either one of the red wires on the harness side of the connector and the black/red wire that need to be connected when your button is pushed.

    Fuel Level Sensor

    If you are using the factory bike gauge cluster and you don't want to see the fuel level bar flashing in series all the time, you will need to ground the white/yellow wire on the gauge pack bundle of wires. If you would like to use the factory fuel level gauge in the cluster which would be pretty nice, it operates with a 220-10ohm fuel level sending unit. This means 220ohms empty and 10ohms full. One side of the sending unit needs to be connected to a ground and the other connected to that white/yellow wire. I have a standard 240-33ohm sending unit that you can get from a boat parts supplier. I prefer the reed switch style that is in a tube instead of the type with a float arm hanging off, especially for an offroad car. I have a seperate fuel level gauge but I am going to try to tie it in since it is so close of an operating range. It should work well, I will let you know on that one. I got the sending unit here. Fuel Sending Units I got a seperate gauge from them as well. Fairly cheap and they got me what I needed without problems.

    Tip Over Sensor

    This is referrend to as the Vehicle Down Sensor in the wirirng diagram. You can try to leave this in place but I have read it will cause problems in real rough bumps etc. so this is how you bypass it if you choose to. The sensor has three wires going to it. You cut and cap/or remove the brown/black wire. Then you need to connect the blue and the yellow/green wire with a 1/4watt 68k ohm resistor between them. Make sure you get 68K and not 680,6.8k etc. This reistor drops the voltage from the blue wire to the yellow/green wire within the operating range of the TO sensor in the upright posistion.


    Obviously you can go through the harness and get rid of all the other stuff that you don't need like lights etc.

    If anyone has any questions on this, shoot me a PM or post it up. I have this harness memorized at this point. If you need a wiring diagram, let me know and I can send it to you. I don't know where to host it right now because it is too big for the site's limits.

    Here is a host of the service manual. Don't know how long it will last. If it doesn't work, PM me.
    http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=9...4e75f6e8ebb871
    Last edited by standfast; 03-03-2009 at 04:20 PM.
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    Re: Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
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    Standfast

    A million thanks to your posting although I am not making a buggy the 1/4 watt 100 ohm resistor on the brown to gray will solve my problem.
    I will be able to override the anti theft wire and get the remote start to work properly.
    I was thinking of placing a 6v diode instead but I could of fried the ECU!!


    where do you find the service manual (the link is down) I have the paperback did you scan them in just wondering
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    Re: Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
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    Great writeup, anything like this on an R1?
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    Re: Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
    #4
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    I just used your instructions on by passing sensors on zx14 your a life savor lol I had a tough time as I cut and soldered harness back to gether what a mess but its paying off it runs with 1 toggle and 1 push button all factory relays, fuse boxes. I an going to use Autometer gauges and not the the factory dash so cutting the CAN bus wires, I wasnt sure if it was going to run . But it does ... I had to add another resistor in line of the 68k to lower voltage a bit more for the tip over sensor other than that perfect thank you Standfast
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    Re: Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
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    Anyone having done a zx14 engine swap into a buggy please email me at chipbrockwell@yahoo.com or call me please at 706 527 9745.

    I am in the process and am catching fits with the wiring and controls.

    Any advise is much helpful to me at this point.
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    Re: Kawasaki ZX14 Wiring / Sensor Bypassing
    #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by standfast View Post

    Tip Over Sensor

    .. Make sure you get 68K and not 680,6.8k etc. This reistor drops the voltage from the blue wire to the yellow/green wire within the operating range of the TO sensor in the upright posistion.

    Thanks for sharing. I searched on the zx furom for this info but I eventually landed here. I used a 61K for a 2007 zx6R. Worked fine. Good stuff Standfast
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