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    Re: Standard chassis material
    #21
    Senior Member jumpin jellybean's Avatar
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    Jun 2008
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    hooray almost every post said the same thing design is most important with correct size tubing (strength wise)but rules will never get set straight untill every one bitches about it enough. just my .02
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    Re: Standard chassis material
    #22
    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Scottsdale, AZ. 10.9 miles from the trailheads
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loboracer View Post
    New to Mini Buggy here... and I openly admit that I'm still getting my feet wet with fab work...So you can take the two cents or leave it... but I've heard that you can apply different tube diameter/thickness/and material for that matter dependent on the potential load that the tube may come into "contact" with. (i.e. 4130 Chromoly for your top hoops with a thicker wall because it will be your primary protection in a rollover) but then reduce the specs and switch to DOM tube in general support lengths. In a nutshell... A well engineered car will have the necessary protection where it is needed and reduced protection where it is not. Lighter= Faster...right? I could be completely off base...but in my mind a combination of materials would be optimal... So long as it is all carefully planned.
    We have another winner!!!
    Who's gonna give him his cookie? (on going thing ....)

    Great first post - welcome to the site.

    You've nailed it. Use the correct material in the proper manner.

    Thicker, larger and even chromoly for main frame items such as hoops and suspension mounting, smaller, thinner mild for bracing and such. It just makes sense.

    I guess the sticking point to it all is "Just what is sufficient?" for the app.

    From what I've seen over the years, 1.125 x .083 mild works as a basic, across the board size. I've even tested this one a couple of times.
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    Re: Standard chassis material
    #23
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    The Odyssey frame is doubled up in certain areas like where the main hoop connects to the main horizontal tube. It is also gusseted quite a bit at the tube intersections. The low points are the large window openings. It's not that they screwed up in design, but that entry ease was given a priority over strength there. The brace tubes from the front upper corners of the roof just connect into the B-pillar with no continuation behind them. There was probably a conscious decision that even though the B-pillar just bends in the middle, that it provides and acceptable resistance to the roof crumpling. It does not take much modification to significantly increase the strength of the cages. That is for an Odyssey which has a .065 cage. A Pilot is .048 with .065 main frame. Adding a tube in the front of the window opening shortens the span on the front tubes. A tube can be added to continue the gusset from the front of the roof down to the back of the frame. While the side to side gusseting is minimal, I have not seen the cages distort that way significantly. Mostly has been the front corner of the roof crush in. Strengthening the cage front to back may change that though.

    I did not continue the roof gusset back on my own cage or add any extra tubes for that matter. I lowered the roof gussets down increasing their leverage. I also raised the side gussets up. They are still essentially dead tubes. However, for the B-pillar to bend where the roof gussets come in, the side to side gussets also have to bend. In a side to side roll, the roof gussets now have to bend if the B-pillars bend. A, B and C pillars are all tipped out widening the cage and leaving more room between my head and the ground if I land on the side as well as more room between my helmet and the cage. No more red marks on my helmet. The whole cage is .095 wall. The total weight is about the same due to getting rid of 8 of the cast bolt together couplers.
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