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    ST2-NG questions
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    A few weeks ago, I purchased the plans for the ST2 Next Gen buggy from Badland. Plans looked good and straight forward. However they do not give suggestions on what to use for ujoints, with the exception of discontinued parts they use to have I guess. So they call for 1" ujoints for 1" shaft with 1/4" key stock. Theres only a handful of ujoints I'm finding that would fit the criteria however there's a few issues. Surplus Center has ujoints that would work, but they are only rated for 10-28hp, my engine is rated for like 50hp or so. For reference these plans call for a 400cc to 1000cc engine. The others being Spicer 1000 series ujoints. However these do not have a power rating or a maximum angle rating. The other option that I could do is Spicer 1310 ujoints. However these require 1 1/4" with 1/4" keyways, but they have a decent power rating and have a 27⁰ to 33⁰ max angle.

    Another question I have is, sprockets. Instead of using the plans layshaft/jackshaft, I'm going to use a Polaris gearbox. It has a 3.5:1 high and a 6:1 low range. I'm going to gear it 13 on the gearbox to a 52 tooth on the axle spool. What do people use for sprocket hubs? How long do aluminum sprockets hold up to abuse? Are their steel sprockets that I could use around the 52 tooth count? I've already done the math, with the 3.5:1, the .76 over drive and the 4:1 final ratio, I'm at 10.64:1 final ratio in high range and at 18.24:1 in low range.

    Edit*

    Another question is, the plans call for using 5x4.5 trailer spindles and hubs in the front and using cut CV axle stubs from a Geo Metro and attach them to the rear axle. 15" steel wheels are common for this bolt pattern, but the pictures of the buggy seem to insinuate something around a 10" or 12" wheel with like a 20 or 22" diameter tire. Would it be better to try to find a 4on4 or 4x110 hub to fit on that would open up for more common ATV and UTV wheel sizes? If so any recommendations for that?
    Last edited by JagerDanger; 08-02-2020 at 02:31 AM.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #2
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I don't have all the answers to your questions, but here are a couple of thoughts

    In my (limited) experience, everyone uses aluminum sprockets once you start getting above 35+ teeth, probably due to the weight. I'm using #50/530 aluminum sprockets that I purchased from azusaparts.com. I liked the price and I could pick basically any tooth count that I wanted. They come with a simple 1" bore or a 1" bore and a 4x4 inch bolt pattern. They sell a 1" sprocket hub that fits the 4x4 bolt pattern, so that is the route I went, but I also welded an additional piece of keyed hub material to the existing hub to provide support for a longer key. I haven't had the aluminum sprockets for a long time, but I figured that a 530 aluminum final drive sprocket would hold up longer than the thinner 520 sprockets, plus they're compatible with the ubiquitous #50 industrial sprockets that fit 1" keyed shafts. Win-win.

    My brother-in-law took a set of steel ATV rims, cut out most of the center, then welded in a new mounting plate with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I asked him why he didn't just buy a set of trailer rims with the right pattern and he said that he needed beadlock rims. I'm sure there are other ways to get the same result, but that was his solution.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    I had forgotten about Azusa, I'm use to the older Auzsa company Azusa Engineering. But glad to know that the aluminum sprockets seem to hold up. I had found a 4on4 bolt pattern for trailer hubs with the same bearing size recommended through Northern Tool. If worse comes to worse, I'll look into cutting out the middle hub and weld in the bolt pattern needed. I had thought even doing wheel spacer adapters, but I'm not sure how it would affect the geometry with steering and how they would hold up overall. I've only found maybe 1 set of wheels around 10" diameter for trailers with the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, but they come with tires as well, I just want the wheel.

    I'm looking to use Kenda Bearclaw K299. But the largest wheel those are listed for is 12".
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    If you're working on your front hubs, then you can try the approach used on the Shredder II buggy. It's the same approach I used and I haven't had any problems. Take a 4x4 or 5x4.5 trailer hub and weld on tabs to create a bolt pattern that fits your rims. My front rims are off a Kawasaki or Yamaha, I don't remember which. Polaris front rims have an even wider bolt pattern, so take your pick. Polaris has both 10" and 12" front rims with two different bolt patterns (10" Trailblazer vs 12" Sportsman), just to keep it confusing for Polaris owners. The Kenda Bearclaw 25x8-12 tires would fit the 12" Polaris rims, no problem.

    If you don't want to weld on tabs, then cut a circular adapter 1/4" thick with the correct bolt pattern and mount/weld it to the hubs. A quarter-inch won't change the front geometry much.

    I'm using the Azusa 4x4 front hubs with a 3/4 inch spindle, but there's no reason you can't use trailer hubs.

    Here's a picture from the Shredder plans, plus a picture of my (ugly looking) hubs.
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    Last edited by darwinpayne2000; 08-03-2020 at 08:47 PM.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    Looks doable and something I might look into. One of my thoughts was to use the Azusa live axle hubs for the rear, I'm just not sure if those will hold up well or not. I'm fine with not using ATV wheels, long as I can find the trailer wheels that will fit the tires and bolt pattern without any issue.

    So another thing speaking of the front hubs, the plans for the buggy and will I think all the other buggies with the exception of the Megalodon and MS2, they only call for a single rear brake. It looks like with yours and maybe you can explain it better, but it appears that you extended the bearing section a bit more and then put a hub to mount a brake rotor on to, is this correct? My original thought was if I had enough room in the rear end, I would do dual inboard brakes with Wilwood SC2 twin piston calipers instead of the single piston.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    Are split sprockets worth it or is it just better to leave the sprocket solid?
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    I'll snap some pictures of my brake setup either tomorrow or Saturday so you can see how I did it. Four-wheel disc brakes will make it stop on a dime.

    As far as split sprockets . . .

    I ordered a custom rear sprocket for my (never completed) two-seater buggy. It didn't cost much to have them make it a split sprocket. Changing out the sprocket on the setup I planned to use would have been a big hassle, so I went with the split. On my single seater, the sprockets are easy to replace, so they're solid.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
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    Yeah I noticed it's only a $0.50 charge for them to make it a split sprocket. I'm just curious if it shortens the life of the sprocket more or not.
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