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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #61
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    For your project, I would use the disc brake that mounts on the gearcase as a parking brake.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #62
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    20210908_121132.jpg
    20210908_121110.jpg
    20210908_121032.jpg

    Seems to work better to take the pictures then screen shot edit them. Much easier to deal with!
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #63
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    From what I've gathered, the engine I may end up using a Suzuki Spirit 500 fan cooled, made about 45hp on a good day. It's the same engine as the Pantera from the same year, however they have some differences, the Pantera had dual carburetors, different CDI and different expansion chamber. And tha put out about 55-60hp depending on who you ask and what literature you read. Would this gearbox hold to the power (45hp) that the engine may put out, or would it be too much for it?
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #64
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Can the gearbox handle 45 horsepower? The answer is yes, and no.

    Polaris ATV riders will pep up their 2-strokes to 50+ horsepower and the gearbox seems to handle the extra horsepower without any issues. However . . .

    A few years ago, there was someone on this forum who built their buggy using a Polaris gearbox and it failed. I'm not sure why, but he wasn't using a ton of horsepower or anything. It didn't make sense to me. I've worked on one of the snowmobile gearboxes with reverse and it didn't look all that robust to me, but they handle 40+ horsepower.

    I don't see any reason, at this point, to think that the gearbox wouldn't work with that engine.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #65
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    Only person I know of that broke a Polaris gearbox was daaboots, but that was due to gearbox modifications since he ran the axle off of the gearbox and did not use it like it was, with chain output. If it's a different build, then I'm not familiar with the issue. But good to know that it should hold up well. Just need to track down parts for it so I can use it more.

    If the snowmobile engine is shot and parts are impossible to get, my next option is finding a different engine. Probably a more common to find 2 stroke sled from the last 15 years. Would go Phazer, but people want way more than what I'm willing to pay.

    There's a expansion chamber program since the current engine uses an oddball kind, doesn't even look like a traditional expansion chamber. http://https://www.buildandclick.com...uned_pipe.html
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #66
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    For those who have built an ST2 NG or LT, is the roll cage fully welded at the rear where the engine gets dropped in? If so, is there plenty of room to pull the engine for either rebuild or to swap a different engine in place? Just a thought I had the other day. In the event that the engine needs to be pulled, judging by the blueprints, it doesn't look like they leave a whole lot of room and I don't want to have to cut and re-read the cage due to possibly compromising the steel.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #67
    Duck in a Tux jimmyg's Avatar
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    That's what angle grinders and welding is for.
    All dressed up and waiting for the beer to arrive.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyg View Post
    That's what angle grinders and welding is for.
    Trying to avoid that.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #69
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    So there are a few small differences between the Next Gen and the long travel. Mainly, long travel has reinforced lower front A-arms, reinforced spindles, slightly longer A-arms (appears to be a whopping 1/2"), different front and rear shock mounts (that was a given).

    Since polyurethane bushings will be too weak, I may look at heim joints. Still stumped on what to do for the front and rear hubs, since the plans call for a 5 bolt pattern from a Geo Metro and use trailer wheels, I haven't been able to find wheels that small (10" to 12" diameter) with that pattern. I can find ATV and other steel wheels with a 4on4.

    My brother is going to see if he can get the sled engine to start up at some point. If that doesn't start, then I'm out of an engine for a while...been looking for motorcycle engines, but nothing in my price range right now. Need something that either has excellent aftermarket support and parts are readily available or is still in production and has OEM parts available, but I kind of dont want to mess with modern fuel injection, wiring is a nightmare for me and diagrams are generally harder to find.
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    Re: ST2-NG questions
    #70
    Senior Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Two thoughts:

    The rear bars on my buggy are bolted on and can be removed. I wouldn't have it any other way because it would be impossible to get that engine in and out otherwise. You think you won't need to mess with or replace the engine, . . . until you need to mess with and replace the engine. Maybe look at some of the commercial buggies and see how they do it. Mine just has the ends flattened so you can put a bolt through them.

    For the rims, my brother-in-law picked up a set of ATV rims that were the right diameter and welded on a new face-plate with the correct bolt pattern. Slightly longer studs did the job. The other option, which I used on my front hubs (4 x 4 inch) is to remove the studs and weld extensions onto the outside of the hub to support a wider bolt pattern. That is the solution used on the Shredder II plans and I haven't had any issues.

    A test-start of the two-stroke motorcycle engine should be fairly simple. Ensure that the stator, CDI and ignition coils are wired up, shoot some carb cleaner into the intake on the carbs and pull the starting rope. Air - fuel - spark.
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