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    U-Joint Axle help needed
    #1
    Junior Member DRS1301's Avatar
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    First off I'm a total newb to forums, so I apologize if in the wrong spot or category etc. I bought a R1 Mini Buggy total custom build from what I can tell and don't know what parts were used building it. All was good till I lost a bolt on my rear suspension and gernaded my u-joint axle I've done lots of searching and believe I have a Dana 30 27 spline yoke and a Jeep hub 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern That fixes one broken part, but I can't seem to find the driveline being used. I thought it was maybe some sort of PTO. I took it to my local (Sacramento) driveline shop and they were no help at all. I was told to just changeover to 930's, but that's not the easiest to do with what I have. The sprocket side has a 6 bolt pattern like most cv's but the brake side is only 4 bolt. Not to mention, the plunge wouldn't work for my setup. I'm going to try to post some pictures of the driveline I damaged and what the good side looks like if anybody could help identify the driveline, or know how to setup a CV with the 4 bolt brake side. Any other advice....

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    Last edited by DRS1301; 12-07-2016 at 06:15 PM.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
    #2
    Millenium Member darwinpayne2000's Avatar
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    Generally speaking . . .

    Most of the builders using U-joints get their slip yokes from Tractor supply houses. Finding a perfect match may be a stroke of luck but that doesn't mean that you're dead in the water if you don't find one. You can probably adapt another slip yoke (by welding on the flanges) to replace one or both yokes on your rear-end.

    Back in the day, you could walk into your local auto-parts store and the guy behind the counter could puzzle out what you need. Today, they want to know "what it came off of". That's tough to do when its a custom build. Nobody has a gut feel for this kind of stuff anymore.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
    #3
    Millenium Member Deranged's Avatar
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    Well, I hate to say it. 930's would IMO be the best option. We can collectively help you out with the swap. You may even get more suspension travel too. Can you post more pictures of your car? If it helps, upload your pictures into Photobucket, and attach the direct link (I think) to your post.

    Welcome to MBN too

    Justin
    Nowhere near the desert.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
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    Junior Member DRS1301's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice Here are more pictures. I can definitely get more travel with 930's, I'd need to put straps as limiters so as not to over angle or drop the axles out I think.





    Last edited by DRS1301; 12-07-2016 at 11:12 PM.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
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    Millenium Member Deranged's Avatar
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    That is a KILLER car! I think it would be WELL worth the investment to upgrade. If you set things up right, I think you can run without limit straps if you set up the shocks right. My single seat doesn't have limits on it. It is also a small single seat car. BTW, what size tires are you running? Weight? I think you need more of a coil spring too. We will get you dialed in.

    Justin
    Nowhere near the desert.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
    #6
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    Buddy of mine built quit a few u-joint setups. He uses the jeep bearing and the 27 spline microstub. but has his axles made with flat plate to bolt to stub axle. Could certainly cut the old ujoint off old have it machined and weld new parts to.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
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    Looks like Sand Mountain NV. ...nice buggy btw.....930's are the way to go
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
    #8
    Junior Member DRS1301's Avatar
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    When the damaged happened it also cracked the shock mount. I didn't realize it at the time until I pulled the axle that the axle is the limiter also. With the axle removed, the suspension drops down a lot, but then all the stress is on the shock if you're up in the air. The shock can be welded, and it needs rebuilt or replaced anyway. I have no idea what the rear shocks are, and I agree it needs more spring. Got a smoking deal on the buggy itself, and it came with three sets of rear tires and wheels (Dirt, Street, Paddle) The Paddles were huge, (33X13.50X15) and really messed up the gearing (sprockets 12 & 60). Could barely even get it into third gear. Couldn't find low profile paddles to correct the gearing, so bought 12 X 12 DWT's and Doonz tires 25.5 X 13.0 Those are the same diameter as the street tires and dirt tires. It made a huge difference and helped a lot, just wish they had a little more "bite" to them. Only played the one day a few times before it came apart. I haven't weighed it, but I expect it to be fairly heavy just seeing the way it's built. I'd feel safe taking it off a cliff-LOL Only thing I've done besides the rear tires was put the wrap on it, re-did the dash (carbon graphite wrap), added the Halo LED lights up front, got rid of the old school KC's, and added the stereo. I did find out from another member here that the hubs and yokes are off a jeep Cherokee 27 spline, and the other half of the slip axle looks to be off a 280Z. In doing that research I found people changing to CV's on the Datsun's also, and they have an adapter from the 4 bolt axle to the 6 bolt CV's. 930's are seeming like a better option in the long run. I appreciate all the advice and help. Here's some pictures when it was purchased, and before and after of dash.







    Last edited by DRS1301; 12-09-2016 at 03:58 AM.
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    Re: U-Joint Axle help needed
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    The Wizard bdkw1's Avatar
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    The shocks look like Fox's. Your springs are way to short, you are probably coil binding the crap out of them. Being as they were not originally coil over shocks, it might be worth it to upgrade them.
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