View Full Version : C-clip Out

01-22-2008, 10:15 PM
This Sunday I took the ST2 for a spin, it was the first time I test it since the last mods.
While pushing trough the gears I hear a noise . It was the third of the fourth run.
The below picture show what happen, the C clip move out the groove (or this one wasn't properly placed ??). [smilie=banghead.gif]

So far no a lot of damages, the chain seems fine, the sprocket is a little bet damaged, but can be smooth out, and the clip was glue on the grease it didn't reach the CV.

I put the C clip back (for now) but it seems "loose" to be exact, the groove seems wider than the clip. Do any one of you if it exist two different size, or one "thicker" than the other, the clip could belong to the bus set up.

Do you guys thinks the clip needs to be changed or "glued" to be sure it do not happen again ?
Do you guy have same problems or experience to share regarding this issues ?

01-22-2008, 11:16 PM
Do you have a picture of the clip you are useing?

01-22-2008, 11:18 PM
Have you tried using a spiral clip? I know they make them for the axles. I was told that C clips were junk and to go with the spiral clips from some old buggy guy. They are pretty easy to put on an are supposed to be way stronger.

01-23-2008, 01:57 AM
Use a spiral, or take some small wire and twist it between the holes. Or get a new clip. It shouldn't come out unless it is under stress.

01-23-2008, 05:55 AM
Take a very careful look at the clip. *On one side the edges of the clip will be slightly rounded, while on the other the clip will have a more drastic, sharper edge (it's from where the clip is punched out of the parent material). *Make sure that you put the sharper edge towards the direction that the clip would be pushed. *It helps lock the thing in place, strange as it may sound.

01-23-2008, 08:36 AM
Could it be that the axles are a fraction too short or is it simply a clip problem? Good tip about the clip edge and orientaion. Like little knife edges preventing it from advancing out of the groove. Didn't know that and did not know about spiral clip either.

Let us know what happens next.

01-23-2008, 09:14 AM
Gene, the axle is not to short, that why the c'clip now is not "tight"

K-fab this is a good point I can definitely look at this

Plkracer/SeufererMotorsports this is an another option but the Empi bible state that these one are for 930 I have the T series, do you have the ID and the thickness of the spiral.

I will post a pics asap.

01-23-2008, 01:58 PM
I've seen spiral locks for a 930 size shaft. Dans or gear one might have them.

01-23-2008, 01:59 PM
Or if you can tap the shaft, put a bolt, washer and spacer in there, along with some red locktite on the bolt.

01-23-2008, 04:06 PM
For spiral clips I just went in to my local buggy shop and asked for them. I am sure any VW shop around you will know what your talking about when you ask for them.

01-23-2008, 07:23 PM
drill and tap, use bolt and washer, and the little rubber plug that goes over top, or tack weld the clip...

01-23-2008, 07:36 PM
I've used spiral clips (that others have mentioned) for years with no problems at all on my play cars and on the desert racer.

01-24-2008, 02:13 PM
I check two place already and no luck.

Any body got the dimensions of these or can confirm they will fit on the T2 or T4 axle ?

01-24-2008, 03:02 PM
I just talked to my uncle who owns a VW shop and he said to measure the OD of the groove where the C clip fits and go to a store that sells just bolts and fastners like Ababa. He said you should be able to find one there that fits perfect. He use to buy them from there. He doesn't remember the exact size off hand though.

01-24-2008, 03:55 PM
take the whole shaft with you, tell them you need a spiral clip to fit...

01-24-2008, 07:29 PM
I got mine (930 size) from McKenzies.

05-18-2008, 01:59 PM
Took the St2 for a test ride around the block and the damn thing, clips come apart again, I"m *[smilie=big_explode.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif] , *I just resolve the long lasting problem with the rear brake and injector ( actually it was the plug, see other post).

Do any of you have the part number for the clip or how did you tap the axle , this one is hardened right.

I'm so PO.... Damn.

05-18-2008, 03:36 PM
I use the T4 axle, I check Mc Kenzie, Empi and Bugpac they show that they have one for the 930cv.

I doubt they are the same Id , but what PO me the most it's how it happen. [smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif]

05-18-2008, 09:31 PM
The FWD plunging axles I bought from RCV Performance have these bigazz clips you can actually remove with pliers! This type axle would work well for you.

In any case I hope you get it solved for the weekend. Good thing you tried it before traveling.

05-27-2008, 07:35 PM
I finally got time to remove the axle and check what happen. The C clips still glue to the flange, before putting it back together I fill up the space between the flange and c clip with RVT ( black), this one hold the clips in place and avoid to have in the CV.

I took some measurment of thc clip , 2.5mm thick and just a tidy bet under 25mm. I check empi and they says the "spiral" is for the "930" but I have no clue if the grove and the O.D. is the same .

I still unsure of how it happen (x2), I check RCV performance but couldn't find nothing, I even shoot them an e-mail....

05-27-2008, 07:56 PM
Buggito, are you plunging the cvs to far and popping the clips off?

05-27-2008, 09:17 PM
Normally the clips won't come off unless something is binding or making contact. *I used to take a 1/2'' button tool and make a radius in the type1 axles when swapping in type2 (bus) cv's. *If you didn't, the inside of the cv would bottom out on the edge of the axle when the suspension cycled. *This was before longer trailing arms, etc. *The outboard clips would sometimes pop off if you clearanced the spring plates too far and the suspension hit a couple hard "full droops". *Those clips aren't popping off by accident, something's hitting somewhere. *Either your suspension is cycling too far for your cv's, or your cv is binding the axle on one end and popping the clip on the other end. *Find your problem before you swap in the circlips or you're going to end up popping a cv apart. *You might try buffing your cv splines as a first place to start to make sure both ends are sliding easily with no burrs or hang-ups.

04-11-2009, 07:51 PM
Third is not the charm, I finally took the buggy for a ride and guess what , after 10 minutes of easy riding on the flat surface,it pop again.
No Jump, no quick sift or clutch dumping, I lower the suspension ;I removed 5 psi to the air shock, and I even put back the dirt tires, I drove on a dirt flat road.
Well in one word I don't feel that I abuse it, I'm ready to chop and toss it.

I could go for a RPM, but I don't think the shaft will hold and I don't have the $$$, the Jeffco seems better but no clue of the price.
Before I switch the flanges with shaft (auto transmission with a coupler),I never got any problems on this side.

Here is how it set,from left to right: sprocket, Cv, Cv flange :bearing on the flange: shaft: bearing on the flange, Cv flange, CV.

I think the problem come from the fact the sprocket is OuTsiDe the cv and create a lot of "leverage" on the flange.

Until the money come to be able to buy the Jeffco ??? $$$$, I wish to find a solution, I plant to go bold and weld one side and see what happen, If I pop a CV I will now for sure i have a problem with something else than the clips, I plan to borrow a small camera on the next trip and video the cv in action .

Do you guys think I can weld it ?

Do you guy have any idea of the cost of a Jeffco, will need flange for T4 and ration 4:1.

Do any of you got pics of your rear end ( buggy ;0)

04-11-2009, 09:02 PM
RPM $2500. Jeffco $3500.

You can fix it butit might require some redesigning. I think we need to see some good pictures from different angles to really have a good understanding of the setup.

Don't give up!

04-12-2009, 01:03 AM
Here is fews pics, any comments, inputs, advises are , like always welcome

04-12-2009, 12:46 PM
I think you are correct about too much leverage being applied onto the CV by having the sprocket mounted out from the bearing.

IMO if you could relocate the sprocket to the middle of the shaft and between the inner pillow block bearings your troubles would go away.

04-12-2009, 05:00 PM
That the plan by re-doing everything, the plate at the end of the jack shaft had to be added , believe it or not the one inch shaft was bending and the disc brake was rubbing on the A-arms support.

I think the other shaft bend and the clip is going away, it may also seems to be properly seated when I put it back and not been really in.

So if I want to put a sprocket in the middle of the shaft, I will have to extend the rear, by cutting the square tubing, I think I need two to three inches, by doing so I will be able to fit the sprocket, I have the exhaust who be inches to it as well and will have to make a heat shield, that why I think to go to a gear box $$$$.
I can design a type of cassette but I try to find some pick of sprocket on the shaft to have some idea how I can fabricate something who will fit my budget.

I was planning to redo the rear but not now, I'm working full speed on my Gt40 replica ( Bradeco project).

Do you have any pic ?

04-12-2009, 05:17 PM
Have you seen the design by Nicken? Go to this thread and scroll down to see the pictures.

04-12-2009, 10:10 PM
Yep that what I want to do, except keep the shaft longer for the "reverse".
I'm thinking to use a commercial double strand chain , like the Tsubaki, but I don't think it's wise and instead to upgrade the second chain from a 530 to a 630 like this I put more chance in my side.

I take some measurement and I think that if I back up my rear I would be able to fit the sprocket, the good think is that the two sprocket on the jackshaft can be welded together, yes when one goes bad I will have to replace the assembly but it should be way stronger since the shaft is no longer a part of the drive, it will be use for the brake and the reverse, I have the Grob spline line in 1040 and I plan to use it as well, since it's time to shop better do it the best as I can .

What do you guys think about the double 50h , even if it's industrial, I can have plenty of it as well as the sprockets.

It will be inside so not so much subject to dust......