View Full Version : Drive Hub w/vw type2 or 4

11-10-2007, 04:07 PM
I plan to redo my rear hub by using two vw drive flange type 2 or type 4 if I can find them. But I can't find any short axle with 33 spline.

Where did you guys find yours ?
Do any of you have any old type 2 or 4 drive flange , cv axle ???

11-10-2007, 07:51 PM
short sand cars sells the axle for about 165.00.

11-10-2007, 08:28 PM
Do you have their web address ?

11-10-2007, 08:39 PM
Does somebody know an another place ?

11-10-2007, 08:42 PM
I have a spare set of vw axles and type 4 CV's. *PM if you are interested

11-10-2007, 09:08 PM
In2Sand sells 16 1/4" axles for $143. You can also order them from Danís Performance Parts. I think 16 1/4" is the shortest you can get with out custom ordering them from Sway-Away or Gear One. If you're just starting to build the drive line go with 930. I went with type IV and regret it now.

The other option is to go with u-joint plunging axles. You will save the expense of buying CVs, boots and axles. King Sand Cars sells them for $795 a pair. driveshaftsuperstore.com has them for 610 a pair.

Cost analysis (prices based on Danís Performance Parts, does not include sales tax and shipping)

Type II CVs = 43.95 (kit includes boots) x 4 = $175.80
Type IV CVs = $96.95 Ea x4 = $387.8
930 CVs = $56.95 Ea x4 = $227.8

Type II (included in CV kit) $0
Type IV (set of 4) = $22.95
930 Boots = $28.95 Ea x4 = $115.8

Type II/IV and 930 Axles $149.95 Pr

Stub axles:
Type II/IV and 930 are the same price $99.95 ea x4 = $199.90

Price break down for Type II, IV and 930 drive line, includes axles, CVs, boots, clips and stubs. Cost break down does not include bolts.

Type II = $525.65
Type IV = $760.85
930 = $693.45

I would not recommend Type II CVs due to the limitation in the maximum degree of angle (18*) you can achieve with them. Type IV is better with 22* degrees but the cost is way too much. This is a result of supply and demand; drop in demand reduces supply and drives up cost. Type IV CVs have become a specialty item. A word of warning, when ordering from most online sources you must be careful. They will ship Type II CVs and not Type IV CVs. I have gone through this myself as well as Protodie. If you are interested I can give you the specific GKN CV stock number for Type IV. If it does not match then do no order the CVs or they will be Type II or even worse Type I/III. Make sure you order from a reputable VW source if you decide to go with Type IV CVs and not one of the online drop ship companies.

Look at the cost break down, it just makes sense to go with 930 if you are set on a conventional driveline. U-joint plunging axles would be much better and easier to work into your project. Measure the distance from flange to flange, call up and place your order. Simple as that, no searching for specific axle sizes and you can achieve up to 35 degrees which is better then stock 930 CVs.

I did not include any pricing for the center bearing carrier. Yoshi $1000 (Honda qaud style adjustment), Doubledown $500 (930 only), Protodie $500 (many options, Type I/II/IV, 930 or custom). I may have new stubs, CVs, boots, bolts, 16 1/4" axles and a Protodie carrier for sale soon. Still debating the move to 930 or u-joint plunging axles.

Hope some of this information helps out. Not trying to drum up a sale for my parts, just going through all this mess myself and weighing the cost. Type IV at 22* is just not working out for me. I need at least 25* but 28* would be perfect. Thus u-joints might be the way I will go.


EDIT: Check with the above posts, might be able to get a deal on Type IV CVs. *Also a source you can trust. When I purchased mine I got a deal through Bugs-R-Us my Uncle's VW repair shop. Hook ups make all the difference in the world on the final price.

11-11-2007, 10:00 AM
AS right now I just want to fix my center bearing carrier mine is made out of two drive flange type 2 from and auto tranny, and I use a Ruland and a 1/4 keyway to hold them together, it work well so far, but since one axle is little bet short at full drop it pull the drive flange apart .
You are right of the cost and if I do a full rebuilt I will go with 930, the type2 is enough for now , my limit come from the design of the rear a-arm, more than what I have and the tube touch the CV allen bolt, so until I change the rear design I'm stock with type 2, type 4 cv will offer a safety.

As I mention more than once the way the rear of the st2 is design is not the optimum way, I can't put a rpm or something else, the motor sit high, have to use a jackshaft, all this doesn't please me but until it brake down I don't plan to do a full rebuilt.
I'm not looking to race or jump xx feet just to have a good buggy for a price I can afford. AHHH If I just find MNB before I built..... [smilie=banghead.gif] .
So I'm looking for a small shaft around 9" long, if I can't find one I will fab one.

11-11-2007, 10:02 AM
here is a pic

11-14-2007, 07:30 PM
Can any one tell me if the type two flange will adapt on the type 2 33 splines shaft they seem the same...
but I have no spare axle to try.

11-22-2007, 03:59 PM
I need some help here.

I replaced my type 2 cv by type 4 (34.2 mm thick instead of 32.00) and when assembled on the buggy they came at the same result than the type 2, the steel part of the boot is a little bet shorter than the type 4, but I have the same angle that the one I have with the Type 2.
[smilie=big_explode.gif] *[smilie=big_explode.gif] *[smilie=big_explode.gif] *[smilie=big_explode.gif] , any body got a good pic of the type 4 boots, I have no clue where is the problem.

11-22-2007, 04:04 PM
and I can't even post a pics..... [smilie=big_explode.gif]