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View Full Version : The Yoot is coming!



Rorty
06-22-2007, 03:48 AM
It's 7:45pm on Friday evening and I've had enough for today. I was going to do a bit more on this SXS I'm working on, but after opening the files up, I think I'll go and get some pizza instead and leave the Yoot until tomorrow morning.

I just thought I'd let you see what I'm doing in my spare time. Have a good weekend everyone! *[smilie=boogie.gif]

yoshi
06-22-2007, 06:38 AM
It's 7:45pm on Friday evening and I've had enough for today. I was going to do a bit more on this SXS I'm working on, but after opening the files up, I think I'll go and get some pizza instead and leave the Yoot until tomorrow morning.

I just thought I'd let you see what I'm doing in my spare time. Have a good weekend everyone! *[smilie=boogie.gif]lol,...Guess everyones trying to tap the side by side market, seeing as how it's so popular. *I have been working on a side by side myself, the frame is close to 3/4 complete, should have the final tubing in today. *Looking forward to seeing what ya come up with....

Gene
06-22-2007, 07:52 AM
This is going to be lots of fun to see evovle. I wonder how long it will be before we see insurance companies selling donor utes to build SUPER YOOTS!

Let's see that frame Yoshi!

Rorty
06-22-2007, 08:43 AM
The one I'm working on is purely utility, though I have a desert bad boy in the pipeline too. I just need to find out more about racing regs for them as this will not have any OEM basis.

yoshi
06-22-2007, 08:49 AM
This is going to be lots of fun to see evovle. I wonder how long it will be before we see insurance companies selling donor utes to build SUPER YOOTS!

Let's see that frame Yoshi!ehhh,..I may start a log on it today, I am finishing up the nose right now, after it's done I may start a build log on it...

minibajaman
06-22-2007, 09:58 AM
The one I'm working on is purely utility

Interesting, looks good so far. *Is this going to be another set of plans or is it just a one off for now? *That looks like a lot of tubes for a utility vehicle.

elmariachi
06-22-2007, 11:13 AM
Regs can be found at: www.utvracingassociation.com/forum/ (http://www.utvracingassociation.com/forum/) *How long before the race version is out? *This was actually the route I was hoping to go in. *If I can add a wish list, this this is what I would like to see in your desert racer: *Rear trailing arms, bike engine, lots of travel at all four corners. *All-wheel drive / 4x4 is not that big of a requirement (more go; less utility) *[smilie=mhihi.gif]

Remember, *It doesn't have to look like a Yamaha Rhino. *Although they where the first to crack the market there are other UTVs out there:

(The first three below have raced in the UTVRA Series)
http://tomcar.com/
http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/ ... xperience/ (http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/Ranger/RangerRZR/Experience/)
http://www.arcticcat.com/atv/vehicle.asp?id=866
http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/SubCategory.aspx?id=15

We are all familure with the Ridge Runner: http://www.ridgerunner.biz/

A MC engine would probably on be legal only in SCORE racing; Best In The Desert may also allow bike engines in the future.

The only draw back to a DIY UTV would probably be the plactics (front hood, truck bed, etc - may not "look" as cool as the OEM stuff). *Yamaha is the most popular because they have a large after-market which is due in large part to the ease in modifying a stock Rhino. *A lot people now seem to be graviting toward the Ranger RZR. *Honda is late to the dance, but should come-out with something similar to the RZR.


The one I'm working on is purely utility, though I have a desert bad boy in the pipeline too. I just need to find out more about racing regs for them as this will not have any OEM basis.

Rorty
06-22-2007, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the info. The UTV forum is a bit of a mess and there don't seem to be any race reg sections although I've seen them mentioned in a couple of threads. I'll post for some info as soon as they send me the activation email.

The manual for the racing version of the Yoot will cover the chassis and suspension, so it will be up to the builder as to whether they build a 4WD or 2WD and what driveline they choose.

Plastics shouldn't be an issue as there are already plenty of companies making replacements and it would be a simple case of trimming them to fit the chassis.

At this stage, the Yoot is only designed as a 2WD. As SXSs become available from wreckers, I'll possibly modify the design to allow the installation of OEM parts like the driveline etc. but at the moment there's simply not enough information out there. After going on three forums and sending 11 emails, I can't even get the stock Rhino wheel centre hole diameter, so it will be a slow process. *[smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif] *[smilie=banghead.gif]

Rorty
06-23-2007, 09:34 PM
From my findings over the past few days, all current race series mandate the use of the stock SXS chassis (although in some classes it may be strengthened). So that rules out a competitive race chassis for the time being. I'm sure there will be an open class in the future as the SXS craze grows.

However, when I get time, I'll probably still go ahead with a desert type version of the Yoot for people who want a play car.

matchew
06-23-2007, 09:37 PM
How 'bout some pics so far?

Rorty
06-23-2007, 10:01 PM
I hope to get some more time on the Yoot in the coming week, so I'll post some pics when I've finished modeling it.

Rorty
06-26-2007, 02:04 AM
Here are some renderings of the Yoot. Thae tyres are simple donuts because the Bighorn tyres I modeled were 68MB and sort of slowed things down a bit!

Rorty
06-26-2007, 02:06 AM
Sorry, I still haven't worked out how to attach multiple images!

Rorty
06-26-2007, 02:07 AM
Sod it!

yoshi
06-26-2007, 06:57 AM
That actually looks perdy good, what are you leaning toward for a power source?

Rorty
06-26-2007, 07:23 AM
This is aimed squarely at those who want a functional, narrow workhorse/part-time play car. I would recommend a 600cc four, or a V-twin. Anything more than that would make it evil.

The purely play version I'm also working on won't look much like this at all. It has a slightly longer wheelbase, wider track and has racier looks, but it's still a SXS, not a buggy.

guy48065
06-26-2007, 11:08 AM
... but it's still a SXS, not a buggy.

What definitions/assumptions are you working with? *The distinctions seem to be blurring as more of each come to market.

Rorty
06-26-2007, 04:25 PM
I think the major manufacturers in the industry make it pretty clear as to what defines a side-by-side; they have a short wheelbase with very narrow track, a utility tray, an engine placed between the two occupants, a sit-up-and-beg driving position and step-through access.

I didn't see any blurring of the definition until Yoshi announced his mini buggy last week.

yoshi
06-26-2007, 04:53 PM
I didn't see any blurring of the definition until Yoshi announced his SXS last week.

[smilie=ninja.gif]

yoshi
06-26-2007, 04:59 PM
you think i'm blurring the definition,..check this side by side out...

http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=107982

Rorty
06-26-2007, 05:29 PM
That's a buggy with raised seats. He can call it what he likes, but having a SXS hood doesn't make it a SXS.

At the end of the day, it's semantics Yoshi - you can call your's a Sherman for all it matters.

Bullnerd
06-26-2007, 05:53 PM
Nice job Rorty that to me looks like a ute,sorry SXS.

The only comment i have is ,watch all the little bends on the front section.Seems to be common on all the china made vehicles,and we dont want anyone mistaking this for them. [smilie=biggrin.gif]

Rorty
06-26-2007, 06:11 PM
Thanks! I don't know about little bends - this is all 1.5 tube. I think what distinguishes the Chinky buggies is the small diameter tube and the chiken poo welds.

Talking about tube size; the trend seems to be, the smaller the buggy, the larger diameter the tube is. The Rhino and other SXS are made from 1.75" OD tube and being the fashion whore that I am, I'm working on 1.75" tube for the desert version and may even up-size to 2" OD in some areas to make it look even cuter. *[smilie=ashamed.gif]

Bullnerd
06-26-2007, 06:35 PM
Yeah i guess little wasnt really the right word.

They seem to put a lot bends right up front.

still looks good though.

rxpo
06-26-2007, 07:56 PM
Chinky buggies and the chiken poo welds.*

You nailed it pretty good there Rorty! * [smilie=lmao.gif]

minibajaman
06-26-2007, 09:37 PM
It looks pretty good so far. *My only thing is like I said before there appears to be a lot of tubes there and many are seemingly semi-redundant or non-structural. *Especially if you are using 1.5" tube, the frame would be plenty strong without some of those members, or maybe places where there are two members parallel could be combined into one. *The reason the Rhinos and such use 1.75" tube is that there isn't much of it in those vehicles, so they need what they do have to be strong. *For your race/play version the extra frame strength is good, but for a play/utility vehicle it seems overkill to me.

Rorty
06-26-2007, 10:34 PM
There's nothing there that doesn't need to be present (with the exception of two horizontal tubes in the front which are there really for somewhere to place a load under the hood). Some of the tube is just a light weight framework to attach internal panels to. Also, the tailgate frame will be 1" x 1" SHS - I just matched the tube size to that of the majority of the chassis for looks.

The main cage is .095" wall, but the remainder is .083" and .065" wall with some of it being 1.25" and 1" diameter.

matchew
06-30-2007, 11:34 AM
More Pics Please!!

ultraman
07-02-2007, 10:19 PM
Rorty

Did you give any dimensions, or did i miss them?

Rorty
07-02-2007, 10:56 PM
Wheelbase is 1910mm (75.2").
Overall width is 1620mm (63.8").
Ground clearance is 355mm (14").
Front wheel travel is 472mm (18.6") and rear wheel travel is 172mm (6.75") (rear travel is limited by the bed height - for convenience of loading).
Overall height is 1885mm (74.2").
Wheels are 14" x 7".

ultraman
07-02-2007, 11:22 PM
Thanks, How about wieght? Also would it be possible to either raise the bed or add wheel wells to get more travel in the rear? I like the narrow track, but more travel too in back.

Rorty
07-02-2007, 11:45 PM
Weight is around 460kg (1015 lb), though it would obviously depend on engine and wheels/tyres choices. It would be very easy to raise the bed.

I've purposely designed the bed almost as a separate entity so that it can be raised if rear travel is preferred over load height. To that end, I have checked the suspension travel for a further 6" in bump and the wheels' attitude remains perfect.

RickS.
07-03-2007, 09:57 AM
It looks pretty good so far. *My only thing is like I said before there appears to be a lot of tubes there and many are seemingly semi-redundant or non-structural. *Especially if you are using 1.5" tube, the frame would be plenty strong without some of those members, or maybe places where there are two members parallel could be combined into one. *The reason the Rhinos and such use 1.75" tube is that there isn't much of it in those vehicles, so they need what they do have to be strong. *For your race/play version the extra frame strength is good, but for a play/utility vehicle it seems overkill to me.

I have to agree with minibajaman. Not just this design but all of your designs. The frames appear too busy for my liking. I'm sure a lot of you like the look, but I have always felt that they look overkill.

Rorty
07-03-2007, 03:43 PM
[quote="minibajaman\";p=\"37936":1e2wrocs]It looks pretty good so far. *My only thing is like I said before there appears to be a lot of tubes there and many are seemingly semi-redundant or non-structural. *Especially if you are using 1.5" tube, the frame would be plenty strong without some of those members, or maybe places where there are two members parallel could be combined into one. *The reason the Rhinos and such use 1.75" tube is that there isn't much of it in those vehicles, so they need what they do have to be strong. *For your race/play version the extra frame strength is good, but for a play/utility vehicle it seems overkill to me.

I have to agree with minibajaman. Not just this design but all of your designs. The frames appear too busy for my liking. I'm sure a lot of you like the look, but I have always felt that they look overkill.[/quote:1e2wrocs]

Just leave out the tubes you don't like the look of. *[smilie=alright.gif] * *[smilie=mhihi.gif]

minibajaman
07-03-2007, 04:43 PM
Front wheel travel is 472mm (18.6") and rear wheel travel is 172mm (6.75") (rear travel is limited by the bed height - for convenience of loading).

The overall dimensions look good and should be on par with most other SxS's. *Seems to me though it might make for an interesting ride having 3 times as much travel in the front, assuming the long travel/higher bed option is not used. *How will you balance the ground clearance and sag? *Won't the front have a tendency to use a lot of travel when the rear doesn't, causing the vehicle to pitch forward quite a bit? *I'm sure you have it figured out, but it just seems odd to me.

Rorty
07-03-2007, 05:08 PM
You're quite right about the pitching. The front has the potential for over 18" of travel and I was initially going to use the basis of this design for a desert version which wouldn't have had the restriction of the bed (just a central rear frame for the fuel cell etc.), so the rear wheel travel would have been a close match to that of the front.

In the final manual, I was thinking of outlining the posibilities of the suspension and leaving it up to each individual as to how much travel (versus bed height) they choose (along with the relevant shock lengths for each travel range), but I'm not sure that's wise - too much potential for mishap and dissatisfied customers!

I'm not done playing with this yet which is why I was reluctant to post the features and dimensions. I may raise the bed at this juncture for 9" of rear wheel travel and just leave it at that. I think stock Rhinos have less than 7.5" of F/R travel and the RZR has 9" F/9.5" R travel, so 9" all round would be within the same realms.

BTW, I'm going away from using this design as a base for a desert version. I've made a few more enquiries and it seems a full house long travel race car is what's called for and will be legal for BITD and SCORE.

TutTech
07-03-2007, 08:47 PM
BTW, I'm going away from using this design as a base for a desert version. I've made a few more enquiries and it seems a full house long travel race car is what's called for and will be legal for BITD and SCORE.



[smilie=shocker.gif]
Uhm Pictures as soon as you get some rendering please?
Pretty please?
[smilie=bow.gif]


This all sounds good and I like the options you have accounted for.
The rear bed etc.
Very good idea and looks pretty good to me.
also the 1.75 tubeing is pretty big on my brothers rhino but shure is
thin. We replaced his entire cage with a new 1.5 inch .095 wall cage with some cross braces in 1 inch.
He likes it alot better and I know its alot stronger.

The stock rhino cage is thin like .049 but with the powder coat its hard
to tell it may be .065 but its thin.

I like the 1.5 its strong, looks good, not over kill and works on
pretty heavy cars with enough cross braceing and good wall thickness
trust me I have hit and crashed my cars enough and the 1.5 is doing really well.

I would think you could take a tree at a good clip and your .095 thick inch and half will be fine with your cross braceing.
Good job I like it.

I mostlly cant wait to see more of the Desert Version.. as I do live in the
desert and desert race you have my attention.
[smilie=mhihi.gif]

Rorty
07-03-2007, 10:30 PM
Thanks Tut. The 1.75" tube used by Yamaha is unusual and wouldn't be the choice of too many home builders as nearly everyone with a bender already has a 1.5" die set. Because 1.5" DOM is so popular for building everything from bumpers to Jeep cages, it's also the cheapest and most widely stocked size too.

I don't believe in using any more material than is necessary, but sometimes you do have to bend to public perceptions/demands and what's most commonly available.

There's a part of me that likes the look of a large diameter tube "skeleton" chassis (like that Crossbone buggy that popped up a few days ago), but it wouldn't be feasible for home builders to bend 2.25" tube unless they had a large capacity powered bender. I think I'll just stick to good ol' 1.5" tube. *[smilie=biggrin.gif]

TutTech
07-04-2007, 12:35 AM
I hear you on the "size" thing and what people believe or see.

At work we use a 2inch torsion houseing and its a monster .120 wall chromoly houseing.
We have never hurt one ever.

But just because we use it on our "regular" cars we are using
2.5 and maybe thinking of a 3" Chromoly .120 wall torsion
houseing just because people think... its a race car it has
to have bigger parts then your regular cars.

So just because we have started and made one and will
continue to do so.
Hey its stronger and thats good so we are doing something thats
actually better just because people think we need it.
So we do it.

So I hear what your saying if you want people to purchase the new
plans then you need to give them something they want.

But I agree for 99% of the people a 1.5 inch bender and pipe is the most common and easiest to come by and I would stick with that.

Anyways you keep up the good work.
[smilie=biggrin.gif]

LiveWire
07-11-2007, 07:57 AM
Thanks! I don't know about little bends - this is all 1.5 tube. I think what distinguishes the Chinky buggies is the small diameter tube and the chiken poo welds.

Talking about tube size; the trend seems to be, the smaller the buggy, the larger diameter the tube is. The Rhino and other SXS are made from 1.75" OD tube and being the fashion whore that I am, I'm working on 1.75" tube for the desert version and may even up-size to 2" OD in some areas to make it look even cuter. *[smilie=ashamed.gif]

Rorty, do you realize that chink is considered a derogatory term? There is a difference between having disdain for poorly built products versus an entire race of people. It would be appreciated if you would refrain from using that word or derivations of it.

Rorty
07-11-2007, 06:52 PM
Rorty, do you realize that chink is considered a derogatory term? There is a difference between having disdain for poorly built products versus an entire race of people. It would be appreciated if you would refrain from using that word or derivations of it.

My sincere apologies if I offended anyone. *The hypocoristic name "Chinky" is not deemed even remotely offensive in the UK or Australia (which is where my experience of the word emanates). To the contrary, it is used as a term of endearment towards people from the Land of the Rising Sun. In the UK, Chinese restaurants are referred to by all and sundry as "Chinkies" and the cult Samurai movies are called "Chink Flicks" - and advertised as such.

I'm Irish and when abroad, am referred to (and refer to myself as) a Paddy. I'm sure you've referred to an Englishman as a Limey and you must have heard the term Yank used to refer to an American (although I do accept that there still remains some gravity with the term being used within the US in relation to Federal/Union following).

It was not my intention to upset anyone. You can put it down to cultural differences if you like.

ProtoDie
07-11-2007, 08:31 PM
I happen to like the term "chinky buggies" I'm not offended

I am more offended for the poor chickens whose poo resembles weld

rxpo
07-11-2007, 08:58 PM
I never thought "Chinky" could be mis-construed as offensive, "Chink"...yes, I suppose so.

In the over-whelming world of globalism, and the fact that China has pretty much screwed this country (USA) and the middle-class-working man into oblivion, I don't think "chinky" is too much of an abusive word. *Especially after the wake-up in the media about poor quality standards in the food stream shipping to the USA and elswhere.

Across-the-board, or in the "big picture", deragatory words like this is not constructive in any dialog. *

As Beverly Herbert put it: *"Revenge and cursory language is for children".

LiveWire
07-12-2007, 10:40 AM
It is odd how words are considered offensive in some places and not in others. Most white people would probably not even know they are supposed to be offended if called many of the derogatory terms. I bet few people have heard the term peckerwood which is supposed to be especially offensive, not sure why or what it means. If someone called me a honkie, I would probably think they were joking. Cracker is probably better known since Chris Rock uses it a lot. He never got malled for saying it in his acts even in the south. When the word was first used, it was not considered offensive. It refers to people who drive cattle that crack a whip to get them to move.

yoshi
07-12-2007, 11:23 AM
It is odd how words are considered offensive in some places and not in others. yerp, gay here is a homo, gay in another country means fun
mate in Australia is a friend, mate for me is when i'm bumpin uglies with my wife....

LiveWire
07-12-2007, 12:17 PM
If visiting Europe, I would find being offered a fag disturbing.

buggito
07-12-2007, 01:15 PM
C'est si gay de lire vos discussions.

It's so fun to read your comments.....same with gesture, the quick lifting of the front arms, big offense here in the state and where I come from mostly used for who care, but if you point the finger while doing this it's a different deal and do the same in Italy and you may be in deep trouble.....

Bullnerd
07-12-2007, 03:27 PM
Yoshi ,i dont think there's any ugly parts on your wife is there?

Maybe you could post some pics and start a poll ,and we'll decide. [smilie=mhihi.gif]

matchew
07-13-2007, 10:23 PM
Bickering is such dribble!! How 'bout some friggin pics, PLEASE?

Rorty
07-13-2007, 11:05 PM
Ah yes, the Yoot! I've been busy with another of my hobbies and there hasn't been much response to this anouncement anyway. I've finished modeling the Yoot, but I'm not in any rush to get the manual done unless I'm inundated with requests - which isn't likely.

When I get some time, I think I'll put some effort into doing the racing version of the Yoot because I believe there'd be more (though still limited) interest in that.

TutTech
07-14-2007, 03:16 PM
I think the race version may proove to be a good way to go
in the future with this project.

I know my brother and his friends are really
into the racing side by sides.

RickS.
07-14-2007, 04:35 PM
Will you build a protoype before you release plans?

Rorty
07-14-2007, 06:01 PM
Will you build a protoype before you release plans?
As mentioned previously, I doubt if I'll be producing a manual for the Yoot.

Mike
10-12-2007, 08:47 PM
Rorty, what would it take to design up along travel kit as an option? Also what size wheels/tires did you design this thing around? I already have 25" tall tires on 12" beadlock rims. One last questions, when can i buy the plans? *[smilie=biggrin.gif]

Mike

Rorty
10-12-2007, 09:20 PM
It wouldn't be difficult to design a LT kit for the Yoot although I started creating a racing version which has a lot more travel as stock. However, there hasn't been much interest in the vehicle as a DIY SideXSide, so I'm not going to put any more time into it in the foreseeable future.

The Yoot design uses 14" wheels and ATV tyres.

I must say I find it odd that people will spend $30-40k on a tricked-up Rhino, yet there doesn't seem to be any interest in a DIY version which would cost around a third less to build. A money vs. time scenario?

Mike
10-12-2007, 10:38 PM
[quote=I must say I find it odd that people will spend $30-40k on a tricked-up Rhino, yet there doesn't seem to be any interest in a DIY version which would cost around a third less to build. A money vs. time scenario?[/quote]

Isnt that just nuts. Im willing to bet most that havet hose high dollar rhinos dont even work on them. The market is just nuts as why on earth should it cost $5000 to build a LT kit for a rhino. I have not once thought about buying a rhinoe and moding as it would just cost to much. Plus I like to build stuff. *[smilie=biggrin.gif]

Mike

Rorty
10-12-2007, 11:03 PM
... why on earth should it cost $5000 to build a LT kit for a rhino.

[smilie=shocker.gif] Who the hell would buy a $5,000 LT suspension kit for a Rhino? http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Rorty/PIX/clueless-1.gif

Who even sells $5,000 LT suspension kits for Rhinos? *http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Rorty/PIX/in_the_money.gif

Mike
10-12-2007, 11:06 PM
Most complete kits out there cost that much. The kits are complete with shocks and all but good lord thats just to much money. Here is a $5K LT kit. *[smilie=shocker.gif] http://rhinocrap.com/store/cart.php?m=p ... etail&p=21 (http://rhinocrap.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=21)

Mike

Mike
10-12-2007, 11:08 PM
Forget that last kit. Check this one out. http://rhinocrap.com/store/cart.php?m=p ... tail&p=163 (http://rhinocrap.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=163) *[smilie=shocker.gif] *[smilie=shocker.gif]

Rorty
10-12-2007, 11:21 PM
At least the first kit you linked to provides new axles and shocks. The kit in the second link is $940 more and just comprises the arms.

I'm going to strangle my golden goose and buy a factory on Monda morning!