PDA

View Full Version : deleted



Ecoli_happens
04-07-2007, 11:44 AM
deleted

hansshanks
04-10-2007, 11:01 PM
that engagement rpm sounds kinda high....

Ecoli_happens
04-11-2007, 08:21 AM
deleted

diirk
04-11-2007, 10:38 AM
I think I had mine around 14-1500 rpm for engagement. I had tested as high as 2200 but that was a PITA.

dcm700
09-09-2007, 06:36 PM
heavier weights=top end
lighter weights= low end

2200 high? when i was bog racing with my 700 atv i ran a 3800 engagement.
can we say belt eater?


the higher your engagement the higher your chances are of burning belts

K-fab
09-09-2007, 07:11 PM
heavier weights=top end
lighter weights= low end
You sure about that??? *More weight (heavier?) lowers engagement speed and usually starts to limit engine rpm due to flywheel effect, while less weight (lighter) increases the engagement speed and lets the engine rev freer. *On Honda Pilots running Power-Bloc primary clutches, each weight in the puck would change the engagement speed by approximately 250 rpm. *Usually ran 10-11 weights in each puck for short course and hard launches, and 13-15 for trail riding and "play".


the higher your engagement the higher your chances are of burning belts
Did you ever mess with the secondary clutch? *If you didn't change it's upshifting to match the primary, you could get belt damage - you need to set the secondary clutch up so it has more belt grip (I've gone blank on the correct term... duh...) when you start making the primary clutch more aggressive. *It helps combat the slip.

Breaking in belts also helps dramatically.

btw - welcome to the site.

dcm700
09-09-2007, 07:31 PM
yes my secondary is modified with an EPI TEAM helix, and the almond spring i believe is on the stouter end of EPI's springs.
Of course as far as belts burning i primarily used my 700 for mud riding and bog racing 29.5 Outlaws and 30" Mudzillas(didnt help belt issues)
EPI, Dayco and Highlifter have teamed up to make an awesome belt for polaris and kawi's HL extreme duty belt $60 and worth it

The way EPI explained the weight thing is: Lighter weights make it easier for your clutch to "spool up" or engage therefore giving you more power on the lower end because your engine isnt straining as hard

heavier weights are harder to "spool" taking away some of your power but when you have them moving well the added momentum from the heavier weights takes less strain off of you engine when you are in the upper rpms (or mids depending on setup)

I know on all of our atvs with CVT or PVT trannies we always used lighter weights in combination with stalls and secondary modifications. The "high speed" helix was probably one of the better clutch mods i did.
I agree with proper break in makes a big difference. Also if you dont have to be in high then dont be especially with a polaris PVT low range will save belt life.

Im not saying that im right and your wrong about the weights but thats my experience and thats the way i understood from EPI
I know of some really helpful CVT/PVT *reading material on the web, ill have to see if i can find it

K-fab
09-09-2007, 09:02 PM
Cool. *What's sort of interesting is, that in a sense, we're saying the same sort of thing. *Great info, by the way.

Higher engagement speed, as you've stated lets the engine spool up - and since CVT's work in torque sensing, it lets the engine get into it's power range before it starts putting the power to the ground. *Lower grunts a bit more - less performance.

We're also using our clutches for different applications. *I (used to and will again soon) short course raced Stadium Lites and Desert Race. *You're playing in the mud with more of a drag racing and pulling style. *That right there shows that there are many setups that each require a different approach.

I'm quite familiar w/the Team clutches -run them on both my desert cars. *GOOD UNITS!!! *They don't break like Arctic Cat secondaries.

The best tuning info out there is by Olav Aaen - [url=http://www.aaenperformance.com/Snow_Home.asp:1lfn056z]Aaen Performance.[/url:1lfn056z] *It's pretty much the clutch tuning Bible.

dcm700
09-09-2007, 09:25 PM
Yeah Aaen gives good info, and there used to be a guy that hung out on HL's Forum by the name COB, he is also knows clutches very well.

Hopefully soon i will be using mine for a buggy application, hopefully in a RR frame

dcm700
09-10-2007, 01:34 PM
also another big difference is the 800 primary, for some reason the 800 primary is WAY better than the 700 primary

Kludge
09-10-2007, 02:57 PM
Before the 700 Sportsman (2002), essentially alll *Polaris ATVs used either the EBS clutch set and belt or the non-EBS clutch set and belt.

The 700 introduced a wider belt (3211091) and a different clutch set.

The twin cylinder sportsmans (600, 700, 800) went through a number of clutch and belt changes (at least 3 different belt P/N) since then. The Belt Width has changed, the driven (secondary) clutch has changed, belt compounds have changed and the Primary clutch has changed.

The 800 secondary has had the most changes over time, as compared to the original 700 EBS secondary (2-roller). The newer version with 4 rollers puts more power to the ground, as it is more efficient since it reduces the heating of the belt, as the secondary clutch faces stay aligned instead of having to turn at different rates when shifting.

Warning: Be careful if you are mixing and matching 600, 700, 800 clutches from the Sportsman line, as they are not all inter-operable.

*/Frank

Ecoli_happens
09-10-2007, 04:25 PM
deleted