View Full Version : Rorty R-82s Test run #3 video

04-01-2007, 03:08 AM
Short video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gydEz83mvI

04-01-2007, 08:30 AM
YEE HAAA!!! *Looks great. * *http://www.yellowdogracing.com/images/thumbsup.gif

It's good to see all the chassis movement - you'll be able to learn to use that to throw the weight around and make the car rip through the corners. *Tag the brakes, load the front end for bite, get the rear sliding, get on the go pedal and drive out of the corners with the arse end hanging out and spitting rocks, dirt, sod. *It's a blast once you get used to it.

Spring rates look close - the rear may have a bit too much droop and you might want to increase the rebound damping a tad. * I may be completely wrong about that, though... *It just looks like the chassis tends to porpoise a bit more than I would expect as you ran across the rough stuff. *Front end looks like it's just about spot on for the terrain.

Get a bit closer with the video camera and find some whoops. *Do a bunch of passes through them, on throttle and even throttle. *That will show you what's going on.

Man it makes me want to drive seeing that!!!

Is that a private motocross track? *Can I come play???? - oof, Washington... *That's a bit of a drive from Ohio...

04-01-2007, 11:16 AM
It has been kind of hard figuring out the ride. My property is still very wet from all the rain and the soil retains moisture for quite a while, so I still get tons of wheel spin. If you saw the first video you can see how low the rear of the car was(too low). So I added some nitrogento the rear. Getting the shocks setup up right may take some time. The front does appear to be working good. But I may need to re valve the rear and play with oil. It is a blast to drive though. I'll be out in the dunes mid week. As much as I want it to be a desert car first, The dunes are to tempting and near to ignore. In the end I'll probably have two complete sets of shocks setup for both. The track is our home track for the kids and me. I'm planning on regrading the entire thing soon and make the track wider to accomidate the buggy. All friends are always welcome.

04-01-2007, 12:12 PM
Tire Groover. *A definite necessity with a car like the one you have.

With the investment you've already put into the car, don't go out and get one of those pile o'shit glorified wood burning soldering irons - get a real groover.

I know Rorty's gonna jump on me for that comment, but after you use the type that heats the blade up by passing a current through it, you'll never go back to the soldering iron style..

I can't find any links right off hand that show the type I'm talking about - I'll keep searching and see what I can come up with. *The unit has a handle with a sliding head where the cutter goes. *You push the blade into the tire, the head slides back about 1/16" or so and makes contact with the electrical circuit. *Blade heats up, tire grooving begins. *The handle is attached to a small box (4x5 or so) that has four heat settings on it. *Plug that into the wall, select your heat setting and make stinky little rubber slugs. * The cleaner the tire (and newer), the better they groove. *The blades don't like dirt one bit.

Ah - google and tada. *[url=http://www.vanalstinemfg.com/_Tire_Groover/_tire_groover.html:nm3cytox]Here's a tire groover[/url:nm3cytox] similar to mine. *Appears to have a dial instead of buttons.

I have been buying #10 & #12 blades from AZ Race Mart in Phoenix (and I need to order more...). *I believe they use a number system similar to AN fittings - where it's represented in 1/16" increments. *So a #10 is 5/8" and #12 is 3/4". *Don't hold me to that, though...

Hey, what do you know - when I go ahead and read things ([url=http://www.vanalstinemfg.com/Groover_Blades/groover_blades.html:nm3cytox]tire grooving blades[/url:nm3cytox]) I actually am trainable!!! *It's 1/32" increments! - but that would make mine half the size they are. *Must be mfg, to mfg... *My #12's are right at 3/4" wide.

04-01-2007, 01:50 PM
Now that looks fun! Great lookin car! Cant wait till i get to that point.
What dunes are close to you in Washington?

04-01-2007, 04:04 PM
Looking really good! It looks about 95% to me. With a bit more seat time, you'll gain more experience and confidence. Your shock tuning will develop as your experience increases too.

I would point out though; the only time you should dip the clutch is when you're stopping. Leave the clutch alone and you'll avoid engine and box damage. You'll also find by using the throttle you can slow the car just as effectively as using the brakes, but with the benefit of having the car set up for pulling away from what ever it was you were slowing for in the first place. With a field that size, there's no reason not to be on full throttle virtually the whole way around it... corners and all!

04-02-2007, 10:47 AM
Rorty I agree on the clutch. For some reason the Idle was droping down too low and I needed to apply clutch to prevent *flame out at slow turns. I dont typicaly use the clutch during shifting up or down. But I had to apply for this reason during some of the turns. I'll get it figure out. [smilie=biggrin.gif]

04-02-2007, 10:48 AM
K fab, Thanks for the link on the tire groover. I'll look into it

04-02-2007, 06:57 PM
You wuus Floor it. * [smilie=biggrin.gif]

Just kidding.

I will post a video of me flooring it. Oh yea my car dont work. Anyway here is a cheap groover from a company that has some pretty good prices on a lot of items.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/399,185 ... -Iron.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/399,185_Tru-Hot-Grooving-Iron.html)

04-02-2007, 07:08 PM
That's the type K-fab doesn't like. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with using a chainsaw type wood carver disc in an angle grinder. It works beautifully and costs less than $50. *[smilie=biggrin.gif]