View Full Version : high RPM, high hp CVT belt...

03-05-2007, 05:48 PM
I need to find a belt for use in a cvt application that can handle 11k rpm and about 200hp, 100 ft pounds of torque. *Would prefer something that can handle 350 hp and about 200 foot pounds of torque. *Anyone know of something that can do this without taking a dump in the desert heat?

03-05-2007, 06:31 PM
You don't ever want to spin the drive (primary) clutch over about 9K. *They have a tendency of going poofkaboom above those RPM.

The Ultimax line of belts seem to work really well. *Look for belts that run Kevlar in them. *They handle the heat quite well.

Go look at the snow section in [url=http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?store=Main&catId=309&leafCatId=30901:1ahuxr65]Dennis Kirk's web site[/url:1ahuxr65]. *There's a huge amount of them available.

One thing - make sure you break in the belts.
You need to run the belt fairly hard for about 10 minutes or so and then let it cool - I usually heat one up, change belts and let the broken in one become a spare. *Do this to three belts and put the first one back on as the primary - you'll have two spares ready to go.

The idea is to build up just enough heat on the faces of the belt to "cure" them and then let them cool. *I was impressed at how much longer the belts last when you do this too them.

03-05-2007, 06:36 PM
Great tip on belt break in kfab. I dont have a spare yet, but will try that when i get one

03-05-2007, 07:30 PM
Kfab you speak the truth,
thats how we have done it old school duluth to winnepeg rider taught me that...DK is really reasonable...I guess I take them for granted ....just down the street for me...

03-05-2007, 08:04 PM
Thank ya much....

03-06-2007, 12:17 PM
The Yamaha 8dn belt works real well on the turbo 1000's.It is one of the hardest belts made and lasts longer than the Ultimax 3 belts.

03-06-2007, 02:35 PM
In the snowmobile world we break our belts in a little diffrent. Most of the info that you will find will talk about breaking in the belt over say 40 miles varying rpm and do not run it wide open. *On a new belt there is a mold realse on the belt (just like tires), this is what you need to get off. I have scrubbed my belts with soapy water to clean them up before I break them in, it helps. *One reason not to break the belt in hard is that you can actually glaze the surface of the belt and set it up for slipping. *A note on clutches, make sure they are CLEAN, meaning no oily residues on them. Also a hot clutch is an indication of a inefficent clutch. Too much heat will kill the belt.
As far as belts being able to handle the power, look at the guys runing the turbo Yamaha sled on nitrous. it will work. *When your running any sort of CVT set up clutch alingement is very important.

A side note, there is an outfit that has a primary clutch in developement that is electrically controlled and it will give you a few diffrent shift curves to use.
I will look for the inof and post it.

03-06-2007, 02:57 PM
Suzuki do a scooter I think it is called a 650 burgman that has settings on the handlebars for faster acceleration or economy etc, I think that uses electronically controlled cvt drive like you mention freezedried.
The engine/ tranny from that would be good for a smaller buggy, quite heavy though.

03-07-2007, 01:26 AM
Here is the link to the electronically controlled CVT primary clutch

[url=http://pivario.com/?p=1:3hbulu5c]Pivario clutch[/url:3hbulu5c]