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plkracer
01-02-2007, 11:01 PM
I bought the plans over the holiday, and started to build it today. I got the sqaure tubes for the bottom all done. Turned out perfect when using 1.5 inch square. I have a question though. When I redrew the tubes to be bent, I used rhino, and drew them to the plans. I am going to use 1.5 inch tubing. In rhino, following the length of the center line resulted in the curves being almost twice as long as the Edge plans call for. Any clue on that? Will the tube stretch in the bender? Thanks!

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow. I plan on getting the tubing done this weekend.

plkracer
01-07-2007, 12:32 AM
Well, It's coming along. I got the tubes all drawn, hoping to get them bent this week. We were supposed to have a snow storm, so I planned on holding off on getting them bent today. I woke up, and the expected 12 inches wasn't here... so... I got the plates all drawn up in cad, and talked to a local laser cutter. He said the rate was 150 per hour, and he could do 80+ inches/ minute on the 1/4 inch steel. Also hoping to get the front stubs lathed. I have the hubs and brakes, so that is a plus. I'll take pictures as I go along. I'll get the bottom frame pic up soon.

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 07:32 AM
hey plk, the radius should be far different, as i think you have figured out, what radius die are you using if your going 1.5"' and im not reall sure i understand still what you mean about the bends, got a brief photo to share etc...If it was me i wouldnt worry about the centerline, i would worry about the points of contact the most, say the roll bar is 50" wide at center, and 44" tall, i would make it fit them dimensions...i guess its prolly easier said than done. i got that bend tech ez and it sure simplifies it...

plkracer
01-07-2007, 02:10 PM
When I first drew the tubes, I started out as the plans show, with the 90mm bend radius. I am going to a 4.5 CLR die with the 1.5" tube. I think it shows the arc length right, but I'll see. I was plannig on doing most things in 2 bends, so I can adjust the point where it mounts if necessary. What does the bend tech say about arc length? If you could test this, what is the length of 1.5 inch tube, on a 4.5 CLR Die at 90 degrees? Thanks.

plkracer
01-07-2007, 02:13 PM
Forgot to say, When I drew the plans on cad, The arc length of each bend was quite a bit more than the material in the plans allowed for. I was wondering if maybe the material stretched when it was pulled around the arc? For example, Rhino says the arc length of a tube is 121 mm, while the radius is 90mm, and the angle is 77 degrees. A 67.5 degree angle shows a length of 106 mm. The plans allow only 56.5 mm of material. That is just over half... The real stumper is that the centerlines of the tubes all line up correctly, and the spacing is perfect.. So I'm thinking that the tube must stretch? Is that true?

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 03:17 PM
i dont see how the tube streches realluy, when i put something in bendtech, it gives me a cut length...say i am making a hoop, it will tell me were to start each bend, and how long to cut the tube before i start...but you are wanting to know what the length is from start to finish of the bend correct?

plkracer
01-07-2007, 03:28 PM
Yeah, if you have atube, and put 2 90 degree bends, one starting at center, and one starting 3/4 of the way, what is the distance between bend starts?

plkracer
01-07-2007, 03:28 PM
Yeah, if you have atube, and put 2 90 degree bends, one starting at center, and one starting 3/4 of the way, what is the distance between bend starts? Should be 1/4 of total distance right?

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 03:36 PM
i just threw in some dimensions...

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 03:38 PM
click the picture, it will open in new window, then click again when open for clearer view...

f1prerun
01-07-2007, 03:40 PM
plkracer----I have no idea what you are trying to say with your 2 above posts.

If you are redrawing it in cad, why dont you just use the dimensions off of the cad program? *Remember you still have to know how much to subtract for the bend to start, each bender is different as well as the dies. *If I take my cad drawing and transfer it over to the tubing, I have to mark 7/8" before I want to start my bend.

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 03:46 PM
same as i do f1, i have to deduct 3/4 from the die edge to get the real start, this is also know as calibrating the die correct, as the 4.5 stated radius is also not always true between benders, when i bought my bender it showed how to calibrate the start and true clr...

f1prerun
01-07-2007, 03:54 PM
Your bendtech program seems to work pretty good, my cad is about 1/16" shorter to the second bend.

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 03:58 PM
if it do it in 1.25 i have it calibrated....the 1.5 i just threw in numbers and weight...

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 04:02 PM
f1, try this, i set it to a 32nd acurracy instead of 1/16th, 1.25 tube as well

plkracer
01-07-2007, 04:10 PM
Thanks bugpac, My cad program showed correctly then. I drew the same thing you had, and it came out exactly the same. Looks like I'm all good to go and bend the tubes. When I measured the die, it showed 4.5 CLR, so I believe it's correct.

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 04:11 PM
did you make the 180 degree bend then measure across etc, and find the true start point and all that?

f1prerun
01-07-2007, 04:13 PM
I assume its the same radius of 4.5 for the die? *Also you measured the centerline of the tube correct, same ast last time? *If so I have 24-7/8 to the first bend and 52.67533 to the last bend. *With the cad program if I am going to mark the tube to where I have to place bends I always use the inside dimensions.

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 04:22 PM
ok, if you were talking to me fi, yes it was, but here is an example for inside dimensions to the decimal, 4.5 clr, and 1.25 tube, not same dimensions, i just threw some in...

Also this is the ez edition, i have to use templates, i cant really draw, i can use a templat that i input difrent bends etc, but you have to do all the thinking for that, were the bends start etc, i paid 39.00 for this one, works great if ou have boundaries to design within and know width height etc...

plkracer
01-07-2007, 04:23 PM
When I mark my tubes, I spin them in a jig, and mark a line all the way around. I still have to do the 180 degree bend. I don't have it here, so I'll do it before I begin. When I measure fron the center pin to the middle of the tube, it is 4.5 inches. It's the tightest die on 1.5 inch tube. Yes, everything is measured from the center line.

plkracer
01-07-2007, 04:32 PM
Here's the pics. The first is the bottom chassis, the second is another shot, and the third is the 1.5 inch tubing soon to be bent.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004957.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004958.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004959.jpg

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 04:36 PM
when i calibrated mine it was like 4.48, close enuff to call it 4.5 to me...you have to also take in account that the tube never is fully in the die until you add pressure, if measuring like you say...also i still have them wheels and tires, pm me an offer and you will prolly own them if you like...

plkracer
01-07-2007, 04:41 PM
The wheels are 10" right? Do you have the offset and the inside diameter at the inside, next to the face?

Bugpac
01-07-2007, 05:04 PM
ummm i can prolly measure them, i believe there 5/5 offset tho...

plkracer
01-08-2007, 04:35 PM
I don't think they will fit on the barracuda. When I drew it on Rhino, I could only use a minimum of a 12" wheel with a 4/6 offset. Are you using car tires on your buggy?

Bugpac
01-08-2007, 05:00 PM
Not 100% sure yet, i may run the 14" itps on car wheels, no biggy on the wheels, they will sell someday...Or save them for a golf cart lift... [smilie=biggrin.gif]

plkracer
01-21-2007, 03:39 PM
I got the wiring harness done, with the help of a diagram. Took about 3 hours to finish it up, but it looks slick now, Once I get the original covering back on, it'll look stock, besides a few mods. I took off the lights, the fan, the horn, etc, and moved the diagnosyic port, and the empty one up, to take up the 3 feet of slack. If you are doing the harness yourself, the gray wire runs the backlighting in the dash. (It is positive, So I'm going to wire it in with the lights, and run the fan off another thermostat.) *You want to keep that one. I learned the hard way, and it took me a while to correct it. Now I have left to do fro the engine is to buy a radiator, mount the engine, and test run it!

plkracer
01-21-2007, 06:39 PM
Here's a pic of the harness. Had to test it before I finished at sewed it all back together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004965.jpg

plkracer
02-04-2007, 03:06 AM
Well, today was pretty productive. I got a break from school and work, so I almost all of today to work on the buggy. Spent five hours straight in the shop after a run to get more MIG wire. It is looking like a buggy now. The only think left for the rollcage is the front bonnet bars, and some bracing. I was suddenly stopped at 11:30 pm when I broke my tube notcher... I guess that's what I get when I make my own, and use mild steel for the shaft. Twisted it off, But it had a good run, lol. Need to lathe another shaft out tomorrow. Anyways, I hope to be done with the rollcgae/ chassis by tomorrow night. Then it's time for suspension, and laser cut parts! I found a friend who will cut them for free, as long as I provide the steel and cad files, and a ride in the buggy once it is done. Not a bad trade off. I'll post the pics when I get on my other computer, probably in the morning sometime, or in the afternoon.

Besides that, I want to thank tony for these plans. I think that they are excellent. This is a quick build once everything is bent. I had a lot more trouble and time spent up in my ST2. These plans are totally straightforward, and easy to follow, even when I went to 1.5 inch tubing.

plkracer
02-04-2007, 03:48 PM
It's picture time! The first if my tach/ speedo ready to get mounted and wired in. The second and third are the barracuda. It's coming along very nicely. I got the shock supports done today, after I fixed my notcher, and the hole saw finally gave out. The ones from Home Depot aren't worth a crap. They don't stock the blu mol ones anymore. I'm only getting the lennox ones from lowes from now on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004969.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004971.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM004972.jpg

masterfabr
02-04-2007, 05:04 PM
MAn this talk about lowes(t lifeform) and home de(s)pot are getting this independant lumber dealer down!Go to a real tool store and get the good stuff. [smilie=biggrin.gif] Just joking,dude.Nice looking buggy.Great start!

plkracer
02-05-2007, 05:19 PM
Lol, I don't think that I'm going back. I went to amb tools and the cost is at the least, 25% more, and they aren't any better than the lennox or blu mol. I got the bonnet bars done last night, and will finish everything but the bracing tonight.

plkracer
02-09-2007, 11:58 PM
It's still progressing. I got all the frame done, besides the bracing for the sides. That'll be quick work tomorrow though. Next thing is laser cutting, so I'll have to look into that, and then get the tubing for suspension. I'll post new pics when I get the bracing done.

plkracer
02-22-2007, 08:38 PM
The plates are going to be cut this weekend. From what I have found, waterjet cutting is just a little over half the cost of laser. Any ideas here? Is laser that much better to where I should throw the money into it? I can put the money elsewhere and be further along if I go the water route. Thanks.

Kludge
02-22-2007, 09:50 PM
Hi plkracer,
In theory, waterjet cutting should be better than laser for what you are doing. *No HAZ, tolerance of 0.001.

Only downside is a wider kerf (material cost) and more kerf angle on thick material.

It depends more on the quality of the shop.

/Frank

plkracer
02-22-2007, 09:58 PM
How wide is the kerf on average. I've heard that laser is 4 thousandths? I think I have 20 thou between parts. Most of the plates are 1/4 inch, and my uncle had them cut some auminum plates, and they turned out real nice, but this is steel, so..

bdkw1
02-23-2007, 10:20 AM
WJ will work great, if the guy running it knows what he's doing you'll never notice the differance.

plkracer
02-23-2007, 07:46 PM
I took the DXF in today. They say that the kerf is 40 thous. The plates have just that between them, so it should be good to go. I asked about the kerf angle, and they said it is about 5 thous with a good tip, up to 10 with an older one. Not too bad if you ask me. Much better than cutting them all with plasma.

plkracer
02-26-2007, 08:16 PM
I think I'm going to puke. They want 400 for the water jet labor, alone! I'm goiong to send it to some other places, and see if they can do better. That is only 80 percent of the plating, so I don't want to spend 500 freakin dollars. It's only a 4x2 sheet!

Gene
02-26-2007, 09:04 PM
Try GK Machine in Donald Oregon. You will be so happy you chose a laser cutter and a price you will not believe. I can almost guarantee that they will reduce your cost substantially. You get the quote and ask: "does that include the metal too?" 'cuz the prices are that low.

Nothing wrong with water jet - my front bulkheads were cut with WJ. That's before I discovered GK Machine. The parts I had them make are many and include suspension mounting systems, floor, dashboard and more. Contact MMader@GKmachine.com (mailto:MMader@GKmachine.com) and send him your drawings for a quote.

Give him a call and describe your stuff and delivery date, then send the files. After a day or so for Mike to look at your stuff follow with a call to clarify anything.

plkracer
02-26-2007, 09:22 PM
Where is donald at? If it is close, I might drive down, and call it a college visit, lol. Thank god for senior year. I have the steel already. I'll send my dxf, and see what it costs.

plkracer
02-26-2007, 10:08 PM
I guess it is about 4 hours away. I think portland is exactly 200 miles, so its a tank of gas there and back. Might have to make a road trip if the price is right.

KWiKSand
02-26-2007, 10:33 PM
I had my stuff done there and shipped up. *The shipping is cheaper than gas to drive down and back. *I just send them a
Acad drawing and DXF file... I think it is R2000 format or older they need the files in

plkracer
02-26-2007, 11:14 PM
I have steel to use, and otherwise, it would go to waste... It'll only cost 60 to get there and back with a decent car.

plkracer
02-27-2007, 06:15 PM
Got the qoute back, and I have to say, 126 sounds a lot better than 400. As for the steel cost, it was no different for him as it is for me. I get business rates through our company, so the price is very reasonable. Going to have to take a drive down there soon. BTW, THANK YOU GENE!

Gene
02-27-2007, 07:41 PM
PLK,
My pleasure to share the GK Machine savings! Hard to believe pricing and fantastic quality and customer service that puts many competitors to shame. This is not just an opinion peeps, it is experiential!

plkracer
03-02-2007, 08:52 PM
Well, I'm heading over the hills into portland on Monday. Hopefully Satus pass doesn't get snowed out. Atually got snow in Yakima today, although it didn't stick on the roads. Total came out to 142 with even more plates than before! I am pleasantly surprised. I'll try to get the plates all welded and mounted by the next weekend. It's a main part of my buggy, and all that will be left to do is suspension and drivetrain.

plkracer
03-07-2007, 10:29 PM
I got the plates, and began welding tonight. I got the rear center carrier thing done, which took a couple hours of assembly. It turned out real nice though, and hope to have it mounted up by Sunday. Then I can throw the engine in, and work on suspension.

Kludge
03-10-2007, 12:17 PM
Pics....we need pics....please

plkracer
03-12-2007, 10:36 PM
Here is the center carrier. I got it and the front suspension mounts welded on now, and I am lining up the engien right now. I'll try to take pics of that tomorrow.

plkracer
03-17-2007, 08:12 PM
Here's a few more pics. The front and rear suspension mounts are welded in place, and the engine is getting aclimated to its new home.

Rorty
03-17-2007, 09:42 PM
Nice work! It's like grown-ups' Mechano. (Do you even have Mechano in the US? If not, Google it)

Is there another support for the front of that welded assembly?

plkracer
03-17-2007, 10:30 PM
Don't know what mechano is, so I'll try to google it. Yes, there is one more tab assembly that I need to put on, that holds the back side of the upper arm.

plkracer
03-17-2007, 10:32 PM
Oh, for the rear, yes there is another support, 2 actually. I'm going to wait until I have the sprockets and chain on, though, so I don't weld it in the wrong spot, and have it interfere with the chain.

plkracer
03-17-2007, 10:38 PM
Lol, It has been YEARS since I've played with an erector set.

plkracer
07-06-2007, 01:39 AM
Haven't made any updates in a while. I received all my parts from protodie, and they look awesome. I had a machinist make a center hub for the splined shaft. I'll upload some pics tomorrow. I got the bearings for the vw hubs, and he is making my uprights now. After that, the driveline will be just about complete. I got the steel for the rear arms, and hope to have them done once my front arms come.

plkracer
07-14-2007, 01:31 AM
My front arms are in, Thanks Doug! I'll mount them up and take some pictures. I am having the wheel bearing carriers made now, and hope to get the plates welded to them in a week or two, then have the spindles made to fit into the front uprights. It seems like it is really starting to materialize, in both the monetary and weight aspects... I lightened my hubs, and was able to get 1.5 lbs out of four. I was hoping for much more, but oh well, at least I lightened them some. Time to order the carrier bearings and heims! Suspension is next! I'm getting a decent pay check, which hopefully will cover the heims and the 4 shocks, and a few other small things.

TutTech
07-14-2007, 11:21 AM
Sounds like your doing good.
And looks good.
Nice to see the pics of it coming together.
Keep up the good work and nice to hear about the shops etc
that are actually helping out with good service.
Thats always nice to hear.

Anyways keep up the great work and nice to read your
updated posts.
Good luck and keep up the good work.

[smilie=biggrin.gif]

plkracer
09-07-2007, 03:29 PM
haven't posted in a while. I've been browsing, but AOL won't let me post, some invalid session crud, and IE won't let me see pictures or icons. Anyways, i've been working the night shift, and should have enough spare money to finish the buggy. I got the rear arms done, the exhaust have been redone, and fits very nicely considering it is a stock header and muffler. Only need to get 1 bend from my friend so the muffler points in the right direction. I was dinking around one night, and came up with a rediculously simple and foolproof way to mount the motor, if you are using a arms, like the Barracuda. It'll make it easy to change the mounts for different motors too. Just gotta wait for then to get off the laser cutter. I'll have to take some pics of it so far once I get off tomorrow morning, then it's off to college at the U in a couple weeks..

plkracer
11-19-2007, 12:53 AM
I've had a lot of time to ponder, not a lot to build. I guess that's the trade off for college, but I've been buying parts and putting them on. This is what i had done so far, but there is some more, but i couldn't show it assembled since I there were a few problems on friday evening. I was heading back from sea tac after picking my brother up from a flight from Yuma. We went to hobbytown to find a few parts for his broen heli, then we took petrovitski out toward highway 18 since this was at like 11 in the morning on a friday, and 405 was packed. We got close to the on ramp and there was some construction so we stopped. I looked at my temp gauge, and it was on hot. I was like wtf?? This pickup has never gotten *hot. I checked the coolant level before leaving home 4 days prior. We had to scrounge some water from a stream to make it home. I spent that night trying to figure out the problem. It looked like the radiator had a hole, and it all leaked out, so i thought I'm screwed if I had to buy a new one, and put it in in a day, then go back to school to do a midterm. It turned out the radiator cap was shot since the little plunger that lets fluid back in was shot, so it all steamed out. I got that fixed, after buying a 8 dollar cap from carquest, so i went to fix the mixture settings. I rebuilt the carb before i left back in sept. and it never ran right, stupid quadrajets, so I gave up. It would have a huge bog after idle, and it wouldn't idle right So I adjusted the mixture, and it didn't help the bog, and the idle got worse. The quadrajets use a special tool, so i went to go make one, since I couldn't find the one i made two months ago, it's basically a bolt with a slot, and i ended up smashing the crap out of my thumb, resulting in a lot of cussing and bleeding. The worst part was that i couldn't fly my r/c plane the next day. [smilie=angry.gif] So yeah, friday night was hell, and saturday wasn't much different, trying to get everything in order, then it decides to rain over an inch all day today. I posted a few pics of everything. My thumb is first, after I cleaned it, basically smashed/pulled/teared the skin off so i could see the muscle. Didn't feel good.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005068.jpg

Here is a few pics of my driveline set up, still needs welding.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005079.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005078.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005075.jpg

Here is my engine mount. Turned out nicely, and I can adjust the side to side about 1/2 inch to compensate for the sprocket. etc. The idler will go in the bottom hole of the mount, with another support closer to the camera.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005076.jpg

Here is the radiator
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005081.jpg

Here are the rear arms. They are solid, no adjustment, all for the sake of cost. They have 1 degree of toe in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005077.jpg

Here are a few pics of the seat in the buggy. It's not mounted yet, so it may look off a little.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005082.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IM005080.jpg

Well, there you go. Gotta let my thumb heal, then it's back to welding on Tuesday.

plkracer
11-19-2007, 12:56 AM
My uprights for the rear shoudl be done this week. Gotta send out a call, then pick up the weld a hubs, and get the front spindles made.

Doug Heim
11-19-2007, 05:16 PM
who is making you spindles?

nutnbolt2002
11-19-2007, 05:23 PM
Like your rear a arms, they look much more substantial.

plkracer
11-19-2007, 05:25 PM
My local machinist, unless he is busy. Are you free doug?

plkracer
11-19-2007, 05:27 PM
The rear arms should hold up pretty good. I didn't like how the stockers made the outward mounting point so close, and with my rear setup, these are 2 inches longer on each side, and the buggy isn't any wider.

plkracer
11-19-2007, 05:35 PM
BTW, what do most people use stressproof, or fatigue proof? I've heard that one should not be used for a twisting motion, but what would be better for a spindle?

Doug Heim
11-19-2007, 07:15 PM
Thats why I asked. I have a set of spindles. E-mail me if your intrested. I have used stress proof for my spindles. From my understanding... Im not 100% sure but stress proof is similar to 4140. Fatigue proof is stress relieved. Thats how I understand it anyway. Stress proof does not like to be welded as you will change the properties. Neither does ETD 150 which I use for my Sidewinder axles and that is some tough $hit! ETD 150 is stronger than 4140, 4150, 4340 and all that common stuff. ETD 150 still machines fairly easy and comes as a cold rolled finish. Now I think Im rambeling. Anyway thats some info that has been shared with me. I have machined it all and Id say I like how stress proof machines better than any of the above as it is short chipping and it is easy on tooling yet strong.

masterfabr
11-19-2007, 08:01 PM
Welcome back Doug.

rowycoracing
11-19-2007, 08:18 PM
BTW, what do most people use stressproof, or fatigue proof? I've heard that one should not be used for a twisting motion, but what would be better for a spindle?

Stressproof would be the best choice for that service as long as you don't try to weld it like Doug said.

plkracer
11-19-2007, 08:44 PM
Well, there only needs to be one weld, but that is a whole 2 inches away from any surface that needs strength. If I kept it under 800 *F is should be okay right? My front spindles aren't going to be stock, they are for 4 wheeler hubs, and need something strong. Is that E150 stonger than stressproof?

Doug Heim
11-19-2007, 10:00 PM
Yes it is stronger but more $$$. Suprisingly not too much though. I would still not weld ETD 150. Hell for the application you would probably be OK with a 1144, 1045, 1141. Those have a higher carbon content. After welding you can have the whole weldment heat treated. I still think it may be overkill. Thats just me though. Fortunantly I have the access to rebuild any weak item in a hurry so I try to build light and then work up from there as I break or wear things.

As far as using different spindles... I am free to make anything to your print. I do have 3 CV rearend kits Im working on for Aus. customers at the moment but I am waiting for some splined shafting and hubs to arrive before I can make any progress on them as I want to build them all at once. Let me know how you go.

MasterFab... Thanks I think. Do you really mean it? Wasnt quite sure you would be the first to welcome me amongst others. I recieved alot of E-mails and PMs of users who urged me to set aside some issues as I was valued here. I plan to pop in here and there where I know my input will matter to the thread. Plkracer has been a valued customer of mine so I tend to help him where I can. But thats not just to be said about people that spend money with me. I will help where I feel I can.

plkracer
11-19-2007, 10:25 PM
Stressproof is 1144 right? I'll probably use that, I'll have to get a few drawings up.

rowycoracing
11-19-2007, 11:00 PM
Yes 1144 or ASTM A311 B

plkracer
01-11-2008, 02:47 PM
Got some more work done over christmas. I got all the heims in, so the suspension is mounted and the front uprights are on the car, but i still need to get the spindles drawn up so I can have them made. The machinist never got the rear uprights done, so I'm gonna have to wait on that. The radiator has been modified to fit in the car, since I'm using a bike motor, and the readiator was for the civic. I had a guy put new fittings on the rad which matched those on then stock radiator, which makes life much easier. The fuel tank was installed, and it fits nicely in the rear of the car. I was hoping to put it behind the seat, but i won't have enough room to squeeze myself in. I'd rather have a little more weight in the rear than be tight while driving.

The seat is mounted, and I got the steering rack in place, but need to make a mount for it. I bought the end load rack from Dans and it is a tad too wide, so I took out the jam nuts, and cut off the ends of the clevises. It's about an 1/8 too wide now, so when I got to drill out the clevises to fit a 5/8 heim, I will move the hole in 1/16 of an inch, which will make the width spot on. The new hole will share the same outside arc as the 1/2 inch hole. I also got a steering u-joint from my uncle to use. The stock setup takes it straight from the steering wheel to the rack, which is behind the arms in front. That makes the steering wheel sit at a funny angle, and the steering shaft is located between your legs [smilie=big_hang.gif] I'm using 1 ujoint, so the steering rod will follow the bonnet bar down, then it will turn straight toward the rack, so it is against the pedal bar, and the steering wheel is tipped down a bit.

I sat in the car for a little bit, and it feels alright, but I still need to get the steering wheel in it to get a good feel for it. That should go pretty quickly, since I have the mounts just about done, just need to put the bushings in after I machine them. I think i may have to move the seat back a couple inches, or make the pedals start their throw a little later in the arc. I'm 6' 2" and it's a suspension seat, so I expected it to be a little tight. One thing i didn't notice is how far back the seat is tilted. I has about 4-5 inches of space behind it at the bottom when the top is an inch from the harness bar. I think my battery will fit in there. Once the seat is back, it should be perfect. I'm headed back home next weekend so hopefully I can get the steering rack mounted, and finish the rear carrier and center section of the driveline. I got a throttle pedal ready, and have the cable so I need to attach that. The brake and clutch pedals are in the car, and ready for the master cylinder and plumbing. I need to find a reliable way to mount the clutch cable to a fitting though. I want to use a morse type for the clutch too, but i need to use the stock cable's end, since it is like a ball on the end of the cable.

I finished the wiring, and it is all in the car, but I wasn't able to get it started since I didn't have the exhaust gaskets, and didn't want to risk a leak. I will have them at my house soon, so I can give it a spin. The fuel pump is working, and the motor turns over, so that is a good start. Couldn't figure out why the engine wouldn't turn over without the clutch until I realized that my side stand switch was wired in the on position so the engine doesn't cut out when put it gear. All the muffler and header is stock, so it will be a quiet machine, which will be nice.

Some future progress includes getting a few crush/bearing tubes made for the rear upright and rear suspension arms where the engine mounts. I also need to make a section to weld to my axles. I think they are 1 3/16, but I need to make sure. I can't find any DOM tube with an ID of that size and a large OD, such as 2 inches. I don't want that to be a weak part. It's coming together though, and I should be done by summer. I will have pics up after MLK day. Hopefully I can add my first video too.

Doug Heim
01-15-2008, 09:00 PM
I also do not like how the steering column was between my legs so I changed mine... Here are some pics. I used 2 Unis though..

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e162/WH1TETIGER/My%20Cuda%20Build/12-10-07014.jpg

plkracer
01-15-2008, 09:21 PM
Mine will be pretty similar, but the column will be behind the pedal bar. The uni will be where your 2nd heim is, and it will go straight to the rack. I hope it doesn't bind though. I'll have to see what i can do when I come home on friday. Other than that, I'm just gonna use some bushings to steady the column and a couple collars that can collapse in case of the worst. The shaft i got out of the pickup has a collapsing section, so i might as well use it.

plkracer
04-14-2008, 02:41 PM
Well it's update time. I've done some stuff to the car, the front suspension, steering, etc is all done, I got the cables done, and most of the exhaust except for one section is done. I have yet to fire the engine up, but that is coming soon. I'm not comfortable with revving the engine without a muffler. Never have liked the idea of open pipes. I'm going to be moving the seat mounts so the front sits higher, and I have a bar to attach the engine mounts too. I'm not planning on skimping there. The engine will still be removeable with the mounts welded in place too, along with the header. I'm very happy how that all turned out. The center drive piece is finished, I just need a couple weldahubs to hook the axles to the center shaft. Here are a few pics of how it's been going.

This pic shows the front suspension. One of the tie rods isn't attached, but it is all good, with minimal bumpsteer, and about 15 inches of wheel travel. I won't be using those bolts that are in *there now, they were just for mockup.

The front tires are bearclaw ex's. They seem to have a nice pattern, and they are CHEAP! for a 6 ply. They have a lot of rubber, and they look like they should hold up to the abuse. The rims are 12X6 douglas .190's on a rzr pattern. I will be using the 12X8 rims for the rear with the traditional bearclaws on the rear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy003.jpg

Here is the buggy as it was yesterday. I have the rear arms mounted, but they were swung up to make room for my (road) car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy001.jpg

Here's another picture of the front. It is 74 inches wide with the 25 inch tires. This is full droop I believe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy004.jpg

Another picture of the front. This shows the rack that I am using. It was a pain trying to find the sweet spot. It also shows the gas pedal, which was a tight fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy002.jpg

The headers are in place and ready to go. They fit very nicely in the frame, yet are easy to remove.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy006.jpg

The final pic is a mockup of where the silencer is going. The header is a few inches longer than stock, which should (maybe) help the lowend power a bit. It seems like it belongs there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/Buggy005.jpg

The rear tires that I am using are 25.5 inch tall wildcats on 14 inch aluminum rims, which my cousin found on the side of the road (only the rims with torn up tires). We were going to recycle them, but they found a home on my car until I get some bearclaws.

Forgot to mention the spindles. I got them in a little while ago, and they fit perfectly. Thanks doug! They are snug on the bearings, and work out perfect with the upright.

Doug Heim
04-19-2008, 01:43 PM
I was wondering how well the spindles worked out. I tried (actually did) to hold very tight tolerances on your bearing diameters for your custom spindles. It was easy on the CNC. Nice looking front A-arms too... LOL.

I must say I do like your Rear Arms. Especially the lower rear arm. It looks stronger than mine even though I have the available adjustment which looks like you eliminated.

All around great to fianally see pics. Keep up the good work.

plkracer
04-19-2008, 02:33 PM
I didn't feel like I needed the adjustability for a play vehicle, and plus, it was a lot cheaper to use bushings instead of heims. The upright is basically unchanged except that I am using a different bearing setup. I forgot to get a picture of that. I will be headed home again (I think) this weekend, so I will get a few pics of the upright differences.

plkracer
05-12-2008, 05:25 PM
Well, here is goes again.

I didn't go home that weekend, instead I headed down to my cousins' house. Thank god I have the car with me now, freedom at last! We went bowling for three hours at the amf, then raided winco for some food. Saturday morning we tried to make rcandy again, then figured out what we had was not potassium nitrate, darn.

I went to Gene's place that evening, to chec out his new, yes I would say it looks new, Transalp. It is in pristine condition.

This past weekend I went home for mother's day and to work on my buggy. I was up 40 hours straight from thursday until friday. I worked on the buggy almost all night on thursday into friday morning. I remounted the seat , and did a lot of the little tedious work. Around 4 my dad got up and wanted me to start the wind machines, and shut them down at 7, since there was a good chance for frost. That really sucked. I ended up working the rest of friday, then finally went to sleep friday night. I don't think I will be pulling that BS off anytime soon. I'm still feeling the effects, and my clock is all effed up. I forgot where I was when I was sitting in class today. [smilie=blink.gif]

Didn't get much done on saturday. My sister figured that moving out of her apartment was in her best interest so I loaded up my pickup with her stuff, then had to make room at the house for it. Saturday night I mounted the radiator, and made a few engine mounts. I still need to finish the one for the upper rear lug on the engine. I took the drivelines to my machinist to get them sized for the tube, so they should be done by memorial day.

Sunday was pretty much a waste too, but oh well. I finished moving my sister from her apartment, then fixed a trailer that had a bent axle from going through a ditch while it was overloaded. When I got home, I decided that it would be now or never. I filled the engine with fluids, hooked up a battery, primed the fuel, and started cranking! It took a while, but the engine started to sputter on one cylinder. It wouldn't maintain it, so I decided to spare the starter and add a little fuel to each throttle body. The engine took off for a little while, then slowly died. I did it again, and the engine maintained rpm. Pretty soon it was purring along. I let it warm up for a while, then cracked the throttle a little bit. It took some cleaning out, probably from the injectors sitting for three years, but soon it was running crisply. It sounds pretty mean, even at 4 k. I can't imagine it running at 13! It's going to be fun. I brought the camera out to snap a few pics and a video, only to find out the memory card was missing. I got a short video just for proof for the sceptics. I'm extremely excited. i'm going back on memorial day, so hopefully it will be on all four with a run-able driveline. It's been a LONG journey, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! (the dunes!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAS_JK_WYAI

I wish I could have gotten more pictures. It really looks like it is coming together, finally. The gas tank in the vid actually doesn't belong that close to the engine. I only has the stock fuel tube since no one was open on a sunday afternoon. The engine had been fully warmed up. I like how the auto fast idle works. The engine starts off at a higher rpm, then settles down. It's like a governer. I think there is a picture of it's location in an earlier post. The radiator works beautifully. I had it modified so it would accept all the stock hose sizes and return lines, etc.

plkracer
05-12-2008, 07:25 PM
Here's a picture of where the tank should be. The ellipse is the tank, made by bug, I bought it off amergin. It should be fine for what I am doing. We usually won't ride for more than an hour, and it need be, I will strap in a 2.5 gallon tank somewhere for extra runtime. The bold circle is where the tank is currently located. The radiator is between the engine and the tank, but located near the top of the cage, at a 60 degree angle to the horizontal, I would guess.

plkracer
06-09-2008, 11:59 PM
Time for a non-visual update..

I'll be home by Thursday (school is out! yes!) so I'll get some pictures and try to upload them through the dial up at the house...

Anyways, back to the update, I got the front brakes done when I was home over memorial day weekend. I started on the brake plumbing, and I got it done up to the front. The bias adjuster is in, and it should be ready to go, besides the line to the rear brake. I ran the engine again, with the finished exhaust, and it sounds GOOD! I like the quiet-ness of the stock exhaust. It sounds mean, yet also somewhat polite.

I found out that a firewall is necessary. The back of the seat got quiet hot from the radiant heat from the headers. I think i might want header wrap to keep some heat in the gas, and not around the engine.

The rear uprights are finished, except I still need the bearing carriers which will hold my jetta microstub setup. I will order shocks when i get home, I had a delay in getting my pay check, but I;ve got that now to blow on shocks and some finishing touches.

Hopefully when I get home I will get the rear bearing carriers from the machinist, along with the axles. Hopefully I can have it ready to go in a week, then do some serious testing (burnouts, jumps, etc) before I take it to sand lake in July.

bdkw1
06-10-2008, 04:55 PM
Sweet!

Gene
06-10-2008, 07:27 PM
What week in July? I'll be ready for the no-breaky-trip in a few weeks. Definitely going to Sandfest . . . you?

masterfabr
06-10-2008, 07:58 PM
Gene,are you fixed and tested?

amergin
06-10-2008, 08:06 PM
Wish it wasn't so hot at Glamis in July. I want a no-breaky-trip too.

plkracer
06-10-2008, 08:18 PM
Oh, just looked at the dates for sand fest, and they are the week before we are headed to sand lake. I won't be able to make a later trip in the year since I'm working night shift then until school starts. We put in 400 acres of hops this year, so it'll be a non stop 24 hour push from mid August until the beginning of October. We will be at sand lake from the 13th of July till the 18th. The 13th is a sunday, and we are leaving friday morning. Dune fest is late July and into August.

bdkw1
06-10-2008, 10:48 PM
Mmmmmmmm, Hops.......

plkracer
06-11-2008, 12:06 AM
They are quiet delicious... if you use them in beer. lol.

Gene
06-12-2008, 12:10 PM
Wes,
Yes I'm fixed and tested. No pregnant women will ever claim me as the father again!

As for the car it is in progress. SandFest is July 8-13 and I plan to go - assuming I get it back together by June 22 and it holds together the weekend of June 28.

Week of July 14 is travel time with a side trip for Kenai Kings.

plkracer
06-13-2008, 03:49 AM
Another small update.... I'm home now, which uis a relief, and I got back to the buggy for a little while. Didn't get much sleep last night, went to bed around 4 am, then got up at 9, and headed into yakima to pick up parts and run errands.

Got back home with my weld a hubs and a bunch of bolts and a flag for the buggy, and noticed that my idler sprocket came in. I threw the parts in the shop, then replaced the gas springs on the toolbox on my dad's pickup. 10 dollars and some modifications paid off, it works like new!

Went to "work" around 4:30 and got a tractor ready for today, (friday) and cleaned the spayer up after it's rounds today. We also got two new 5525N John Deere's and two new Rears sprayers to cover the extra ground we put in. One 5525N and a 2240 going almost non-stop 4 hours per day barely cut it last year. These three will most likely have their work cut out for them this season. That'll most likely be my job for the summer. At least they have air conditioning!

My cousin is supposed to work for my father this summer, which would be pretty cool. They currently are living on the other side of the state, close to Gene, but their dad is moving to Idaho for work, and they are staying in yakima for the summer.

Well, back to the buggy, I got the front uprights done, for the most part, on memorial day, so I mounted them on the front. It was a lot different this tiem with everything tight. There was not any slop to use up the problems that I missed before. I cut the tacks on the rack mounting plate, thank god I tacked it, adn didn't fully weld all the sides, I would be PISSED! That's one more reason to not fully weld. Your buggy will have problems! Anyways, I dinked around with the mounting location for about an hour, then found a decent spot, but it screwed up my ackerman. It was COMPLETELY backwards. Inside tire would turn ~15 degrees, while the outside was turning ~30. At that spot, there was almost no bumpsteer, but anothe rproblem was that the position where the heims would lock would change throughout the cycle. I didn't feel like dealing with it, because if I was at full lock, and hit a big rut, it would rip the wheel out of my hands, so back to more imagineering.

I figured my main problem was the placement on the steering rod. It was behind the pedal bar, which supports the pedal boxes. This made the ujoint run at a 45 degree angle with a lot of oscillation, and it also limited the range where I could put the rack. I moved the ujoint behind the bar, and shortened the steering tube so it is just 6 inches long. The ujoint runs at a 25-30 degree angle now, and the rack found a new home, near the old one, but it was angled back, which lowered the mounting points. This was the reason I was having bumpsteer. As the wheel cycled up, the tie rod was too long, and the arc was too high so that it toed in about 2-3 degrees along the 16 degrees of travel. That amount seemed acceptable to me, but now I have it almost all gone. Therwe is a slight toe in moment around the middle of the travel, and the it returns to normal, which is cool.

Moving the steering rod also produced another problem. The pedal area is tight in this car, and even more so because I used 1.5 inch tubing. I wear a size 11.5, and there was no way it was going to fit between the steering rod and the gas pedal. So... I moved the brake to the left side, and said hello to the hand clutch. I need to find an acceptable lever, but this is the only real solution, unless I want to hit the gas pedal all the time when hitting the brakes.

Another problem is my height. Being 6' 2" means that you are squished in the car, so I moved the pedals forward from the design. It feels comfortable, and without it, I bet I woudl be cramped, or have my knees up high. If the pedals were in the original position, they would probably fit properly.

I soon got tired, and decided to c;ean the shop up, which took about an hour with all the tools and parts laying around. Much cleaner now. I kept hearing Temple of the Dog's "Hunger Strike" in my head while I was cleaning. Didn't occur to me that I hadn't eating since noon, and it was now past midnight. I scrounged the fridge and ate what I could find, then plopped down on the computer and started typing.

Well, that is my story, lol. Now to repeat it tomorrow! I better take a shower and hit the sack.

I will get some pics up when I have time to take them and upload them onto my laptop. Having 56k means that it is painfully slow to upload.

plkracer
10-25-2008, 06:08 PM
It's been a long time since the update. I'm back at school now, so progress is again pretty slow, but the car runs now. It's time to do a little dinking. I wasn't pleased with the amount of bumpsteer the car had, and the ackerman wasn't the best. I couldn't raise the outer pivot enough or lower the rack enough to get rid of the little bit of bumpsteer. I thought it would be fine, and it is, but you can see the tires moving around. It goes from 2 degrees toe out to 2 degrees toe in on each tire from full droop to full bump. I didn't feel it while driving the car, but you do notice it in turns. On a hard turn, the wheel seemed to turn itself due to the toe change, so it's time to fix that.

To rememdy the bump steer problem I will need to raise the outer pivots 1/2 inch and then make different tie rods so they will clear the a arm.

I think my original uprights have been tattered enough from modifications, so I will be building some new ones out of new laser cut plate so they fit the calipers better too. The old ones required a 1/4 inch spacer which also spaced the hub out there a little farther. It's not much, but I'm going to fix it.

Another small thing is in the rear end. I haven't checked yet, but the bolt holding my cv cup on keeps coming loose, even with loctite. I think it sheared the head off this last time. I'm starting to think that was the side I didn't lathe flat, so the cup isn't fully seating against it when tightened down. I'll have to pull the shaft (easy fix) and lathe it flat, then red loctite the bolts.

Finally I need to do some shock tuning. I haven't done a whole lot of driving in the rough stuff, but the fronts definitely need more oil. They liked to bottom out on some of the harder transitions between the flats and the dunes, even when they were jacked up pretty high. I'm still a little lost on the rear. I can't see what it was doing, but I believe it was bottoming out on the whoops which made it feel rough. Those probably need more oil too. I'm not 100 sure about dampening. I'll have to drive it around more. The fronts didn't have a problem diving in and out of the whoops, but they seemed a little stiff on some of the ruts when going slow. I'm thinking the 60/90 setup that came on them is a little stiff. I'm thinking a 50/70 or 40/60 would be preferable. Besides that the car seemed to do well. I need to make a few more tabs and get some bodywork on this winter then paint it in the spring.

Here are some pics of the old uprights. I had to do some custom notching to clear the heims, calipers and tie rods, which will be fixed in the new ones. I will also be putting proper ackerman in the new ones to try it out. I found that the rod ends still have a fair amount of travel left to them on the inside tire when at full lock on the outside.

plkracer
10-25-2008, 06:17 PM
Here's the new design (pretty much). My computer decided to crash after I got the steering arms done, so they look a little goofy right now.

RickS.
10-25-2008, 06:27 PM
Why all of the steering problems?
Is it built to plans?

plkracer
10-25-2008, 06:50 PM
The plans don't incorporate a whole lot of ackerman. With the steering rack that I am using, it is about 1/4 inch too wide to fit down into the front bars so I cannot get it low enough. I decided to just raise them up on the outside. I used 1-1/4 tube for the steering tie rods, and the plans use a 5/8 rod from what I saw, which is why I would be too tight.

plkracer
10-25-2008, 06:52 PM
I really don't know if I need to make a smaller tie rod. Right now at full lock it is barely touching the top arm, but when I add ackerman, it will position it inward, and a little upward, which will push it away from the arm, so i may not need to modify my tie rods.

It is all built to plans besides the steering rack and tie rods which are different.

Beelzeboss
10-26-2008, 02:23 AM
Hi,

In a previous post you mentioned that the Ackermann was totally backward. Edge buggies use 'reverse Ackermann' where the outside tire actually turns at a sharper angle than the inside tire. (Well, the Sidewinder I'm building uses reverse ackermann. I assume the Barracuda is the same). Apparently this helps the buggy steer in offroad conditions, but I'd imagine it makes it much harder to turn on pavement.
Hope this helps,

Andrew

plkracer
10-26-2008, 02:39 AM
It wasn't designed to be completely backwards. I think you read a previous post that mentioned that I could make it backwards by placing my rack in a funny position where the angle of the tie rods to the knuckle was screwy. The design uses almost no ackerman from what I have drawn in solidworks. I needed to move the outer pivot in about 2 1/4 inches to achieve proper ackerman.

The Kar Audio Guy
10-26-2008, 04:34 AM
I still don't understand the whole ackerman thing do you have a drawing that might help clear this up for me?

yummi
10-26-2008, 10:25 AM
I still don't understand the whole ackerman thing do you have a drawing that might help clear this up for me?

Kar Audio Guy:

The thing that helped me understand was a post on this board that had a link to RC cars. Here is that link RcTek - Radio Controlled Model Car Handling - The Ackerman Steering Principle (http://www.rctek.com/handling/ackerman_steering_principle.html)

Also, this MBN thread has lots of various links: http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/suspension-wheels-tires/4722-ackerman-angle.html#post68816

I feel your pain without a picture. The RC link has a drawing that made it "click" for me. And the MBN thread has a drawing by Yoshi that might help long about post 6 or 7.

PLK: Not trying to hijack your thread - I know you were pleased with the car before, hope the mods make it more so!

plkracer
10-31-2008, 12:20 AM
Just to try out the mods a did a little modifying to my original uprights. I was only able to get 1/2 of true ackerman due to the tie rod mount hitting the lower a arm, but it is a huge improvement. Both left and right heims will pretty much max out at identical times, so I am getting the most steering possible out of the setup.

I did a little more to the car today too. Most of the electronics were just temporarily mounted, so I decided to make hard mounts for them. I built tabs for all of the relays and solenoids, so now they are all securily mounted. Dont know if you guys saw the rectifier, but I put the fuse box right next to it. It makes a nice setup. The overflow tank is on the opposite side of the seat for easy viewing. I originally had the gauge cluster on the left side of the steering wheel, and up against a junction where 3 bars meet. It was a hassle to watch, especially when bouncign around. After analyzing some of my drving, I realized that I do not look at the cluster when I am turning, so I put it in front of the wheel. You can see it perfectly between the window of the wheel, even while doing some slight turning. It is much easier to see now.

I also built a "mini dash" that holds my main switches and ignition. I also have room for extra lights if needed.

I still need to make a box for the ecu and foam line it so that is protected. I will be test driving tomorrow to see how well my changes work.

plkracer
11-01-2008, 04:10 AM
My younger cousin came over this morning and we finished up the mount for the overflow tank and mounted in a clutch override switch into the dash. Works slick now. I still haven't made the computer box yet. I need to borrow the plasma cutter to make nice cuts. The hacksaw is getting OLD.

It was raining all morning, but it cleared around 11 am, and by noon we were able to ride around. A little wet still, but it soon dried off.

This buggy is a blast! It's amazng how fast it can accelerate when it finds traction! The road was pretty tacky so the tires dug a bit instead of spinning. 6th gear runs followed by full throttle application at 70 mph were enough to scare you. The front end gets REALLY light.

My younger cousin is a bit more wild than my older one, and he enjoyed the car. I was riding the fourwheeler beside him (400ex, slight mods) to see how fast it really was. The poor fourwheeler couldn't touch the beast. He was able to start in 6th, while I was in 3rd, and he was under 1/2 throttle the whole time. The 400ex runs pretty strong for how little it is modded too. A full on drag race was a joke. Once the buggy got rolling and into 3rd, where it found traction, it would sprint away. My cousin said that he hit 85 or so in under a quarter mile, and he wasn't pushing the car hard. That's pretty fast!I bet 100 is easily achievable in that distance, but I don't think I want to be the one driving.

The mods helped a ton. It's amazing to watch the old videos and actually how much push it had. The inside tire did NOTHING. Now it helps a lot, and it will throw clods into the cabin, which may not be the best thing, but hey, it's helping! THe bumpsteer is pretty much gone. There is still slight toe out when at full droop, but there is none in the lower 2/3 of the travel, which is where the wheels are most of the time. No more negative feedback through the wheel when turning over bumps and ruts. It's pretty awesome.

There are only a few more things to do before paint. The car has proven to be pretty solid so far. We put on 22 or so HARD miles on it today, and it was rock solid the whole time, except when I ran out of gas... [smilie=wub.gif] Still need to wire the fuel light in. :D I was able to put longer bolts into the cv cups, and I found a decent allen so I could properly tighten the bolt. I also used a lot more loctite this time. The one drop didn't hold. They haven't budged yet so that is good.

The updates to the dash were a blessing. You can effortlessly glance at the rpm or spedometer even while steering. The dash works well too. FLip one switch up or down, then push start, as long at the clutch is pulled in.

I got som pretty good video of the car playing on the road and in the dirt. I will host them on youtube once I get back to school, along with the Moses Lake video.

plkracer
11-02-2008, 09:24 PM
It's been a good weekend. Saturday I brought the car over to my cousins' house and we ran it around there. I disproved a lot of misconceptions about the car. Everyone was impressed. It seems to jump pretty decent. They have a small motorbike track that I ran around. The tabletop was kind of hairy because it is just wide enough for the buggy, but there is a larger jump that I was able to get about 1 foot of air.

The suspension needs to be tuned. I ran across a ditched corn field, and it was rough! The suspension didn't want to compress that quickly, and it was packing up a lot, so it kept getting rougher until you stopped. I need quicker rebound and softer compression.

My cousin was brave enough to drive the car down the asphault road by their house. He made a 90mph run... crazy! And it still had a lot more! He said it was really smooth though, but you could feel the front end get light when it was punched. There wasn't any squirrelly-ness like on the gravel roads.

It was foggy this morning, and way too cold to be driving in an open cab. We did a little driving around the track, throwing dirt, then brought it back, cleaned it up, and fogged the frame down with silicone spray. That stuff did an amazing job of preventing rust even though it was pretty wet all saturday.

plkracer
11-02-2008, 09:45 PM
Here is the video of our run on Halloween. There is also a high quality version if you click the link above the video. Ripping it up in the Barracuda (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-InxNWtjJEw)

phelpsracing1
11-03-2008, 06:12 PM
Great video! You need to build one for your cousin and then you can race Ha, Ha!! I am really starting to like the the shape of the Barracudus. When I was first thinking about building a buggy I looked at the EDGE website and nothing caught my eye, but after seeing all your videos I think a Barracuda might be a next project. Do you have stock exhaust on your engine? It sounds good.

plkracer
11-03-2008, 06:27 PM
Yep stock exhaust, only about 4 inches longer to make it fit properly. I have another frame and he is thinking of building a buggy out of it, but he is living on his own and money is too tight.

TutTech
11-04-2008, 05:06 PM
Holy Cow that's cool! Great video and Ya build another so you can race your cousin.
:D

Nice work and very cool.
;)

Doug Heim
11-04-2008, 09:36 PM
Great work... Im glad to finally see your hard work pay off.

Congrats!!

Also look into charging those shocks to a little higher PSI.

plkracer
11-04-2008, 09:54 PM
Great work... Im glad to finally see your hard work pay off.

Congrats!!

Also look into charging those shocks to a little higher PSI.

Yeah, I need more oil in them too, and they will be revalved during thanksgiving. They worked pretty good for running around the trails at the house. They are a bit rough on the rough stuff, and they don't rebound as fast as I'd like. I'm going to a 40-60 setup from the 60-90 they came with. When I had more nitrogen than this, it was pretty rough, so I lowered them down and it softened them a bit.

yummi
11-06-2008, 07:34 AM
Looks like fun - forget about building one for the cousin, build a jump instead? [smilie=evilgrin.gi:

plkracer
11-06-2008, 01:06 PM
Yeah, we've got the loader tractor at the house. I'll try to make one next time if the ground hasn't frozen.

plkracer
11-15-2008, 03:36 AM
I decided to pull the plugs tonight to see if everything was going smoothly with the engine. All 4 plugs were a nice golden brown color which I was happy to see. The engine started right up after a two week idle period.

The weather here is perfect. It was 71!!! On Thursday and today it was 60. Hopefully it is the same tomorrow. Nice sunny skies for the weekend!

plkracer
11-15-2008, 06:17 AM
I just finished up the new steering shaft. Turned out pretty slick. I rosette welded every piece so it will be solid and the steering feels much tighter now with everything being splined. Looks like it's ready for another shake down.

I tore into one of the cv's tonight and it looks good. It is much easier to manipulate now than when I first got them. They are fromm a jetta, but are not type 2 or type 4. They are in between. The balls are smaller than type 2 but larger than type 4?? Splines are identical to type 2/4.

The boots also allow about 25-26 degrees of deflection before they hit the axle. They are larger than a type 2 boot, which makes it a little tougher to get the cv bolts in.

When my cousin was sliding the car around at his house I heard one of them clicking. My strap had loosened slightly, and it only did it at full extension, which was over 20 degrees. I don't know exactly, because I didn't have the protractor with me, but it was more than what I have them set at now. I think the smaller balls allow more angle than type 2. I am set for 18 now, and they don't bind/click at all. I am getting just under 12 inches of wheel travel with this setup. If I go to type 4's, and a smaller center drive unit, I know I can easily push 14 inches.

When I maxed out the rear shocks, the angle of the axles was almost 28 degrees! I'd be getting a lot of wheel travel though! Maybe in the future sometime... I don't see a need for any more than 14 with the type 4's and a narrower center. (In the works). I think the shocks allow for 15.5-16 inches of wheel travel.

K-fab
11-15-2008, 08:12 AM
It finally moves![smilie=ecstatic.gi: <---- That's funny! (and boy do I understand)

Once you finally get the correct shock length figured out, you can always go back into the shock and put in an internal spacer.

That, along w/the limit straps should do a good job of limiting the extension, thus saving the cv's from going poofkaboom.

plkracer
11-15-2008, 08:28 AM
It finally moves![smilie=ecstatic.gi: <---- That's funny! (and boy do I understand)

Once you finally get the correct shock length figured out, you can always go back into the shock and put in an internal spacer.

That, along w/the limit straps should do a good job of limiting the extension, thus saving the cv's from going poofkaboom.


Yeah, I was thinking of the internal spacer, but I don't like the idea of it flopping around on the shaft.

Or does it go above the negative spring?

K-fab
11-15-2008, 10:34 AM
I would put it between the large washer under the shim stack and the top out spring.

It's not going to "flop" around on the shaft. The oil in the shock will keep it from that.

I've done this many times and have never seen any sort of issue with the spacer at all.

plkracer
11-15-2008, 11:40 AM
It's just DOM tube right?

K-fab
11-15-2008, 03:36 PM
I always machined an aluminum spacer that had a .25" wall.

sodman
11-16-2008, 10:10 AM
Hi plkracer
Ive decided to go with jetta cv 's in my buggy just wondering if you might have a picture of your set up so i can see if i'm doing this right . I had u joints in for only 2 times out maybe 4 hours ride time when I dismantled for paint 3 of the 6 keyways were almost twisted off poor design. Have all my componants at machineshop getting them back tues. By the way nice pics and videos of your buggy
Thanks Sodman

plkracer
11-17-2008, 03:56 AM
I always machined an aluminum spacer that had a .25" wall.

Oh, if they are aluminum, I won't worry about them scratching the shaft anyways. I'll look into that when I revalve the shocks.


Hi plkracer
Ive decided to go with jetta cv 's in my buggy just wondering if you might have a picture of your set up so i can see if i'm doing this right . I had u joints in for only 2 times out maybe 4 hours ride time when I dismantled for paint 3 of the 6 keyways were almost twisted off poor design. Have all my componants at machineshop getting them back tues. By the way nice pics and videos of your buggy
Thanks Sodman


Were you able to find an axle that fits properly? I lengthened mine, but will be looking to get some made next spring just for the safety factor.

I've been pretty hard on them, and they show no cracks and they have not twisted at all. They are 1.5 inch DOM .25 inch wall. there are 4 rosette welds per axle half, and I fishmouthed the ends and welded it up.

I don't have any pictures of the axles, sorry. I'm using some of protodie's stuff in the rear along with a splined shaft and hubs from g and g. I bored and tapped the shaft on a lathe so I could hold the cups on with an allen bolt, and it is holding now since I put some green locktite on there. (it's stronger than blue, but not permament.)

plkracer
11-25-2008, 02:40 PM
Well, ordered my rear tires on sunday. 27 inch Bearclaws, 12X8 douglas .190 aluminum rims, all for 256 shipped. :D They are supposed to be in tomorrow. The package weight is 57 lbs, [smilie=shocker.gif]. They should still be lighter than the lead weights I had on there before. [smilie=tongue.gif] Now I need to machine some adapters on the lathe, and try em out.

Doug Heim
11-26-2008, 10:29 PM
where did you buy those from. I may be intrested in a extra set...

plkracer
11-27-2008, 12:29 AM
Rocky Mountain ATV. I bought a set of closeout rims since I had to make an adapter plate anyways. I got the tires today, and they are only 26 inches, I was hoping 27, but oh well. I will go for the 12 wides next time instead of the 10's, although they are 10 lbs lighter.

Beelzeboss
12-06-2008, 04:42 AM
Just wanted to say that I have been following this thread for a while and I am really impressed by the quality of your work. Keep it up!

plkracer
12-06-2008, 02:42 PM
Just wanted to say that I have been following this thread for a while and I am really impressed by the quality of your work. Keep it up!

Thanks. I do what i can when I'm home, so work on the buggy is a little slow. It will most likely be torn down and finished this spring, which will be exciting.

yummi
12-07-2008, 08:18 AM
Tires come in yet?

plkracer
12-07-2008, 03:49 PM
Tires come in yet?


Yep, they came in the day before thanksgiving. The adapter plates should be cut out this week.

plkracer
01-24-2009, 01:04 AM
Ok, time for an update... I went to leave school today and as I drove down the parking garage I noticed my rear brakes growling BAD whenever I lightly touched the pedal. It went away when I pushed a bit harder, but nevertheless they were shot. Looks like the multiple trips back and forth had finally done them in (not to mention 212,000 on stock rear pads). I got home and changed them out, since we had bought a set to replace them when I did the fronts about 10,000 mi ago. They still had plenty of pad material, but it looks like they finally baked themselves to the point where they started to flake.

I got around to putting the rear tires on the buggy. I know this is a BIT delayed, but I couldn't drive it anyways during break due to 6 inches of snow on the ground.

The bear claws make the buggy look much better. Hopefully they hook up better too.

I started her up tonight after a long slumber, and dang it sounds good! I'll have to take it for a spin tomorrow.

sodman
01-24-2009, 10:27 AM
Plkracer
Dont' know if you been following my thread but just in case you haven't been I just thought I'd say thanks for the idea of the Jeta axles after a little mishap with my cv cups (fixed that problem) the buggy is back up and running been doing a lot of power turns on ice lots of spinning and then hitting gravel good work out for the axles they seem to be performing fantastic
Thanks Sodman ( Blair)

K-fab
01-24-2009, 10:50 AM
"It finally moves! [smilie=ecstatic.gi:"

Is that not the truth?

The first time you get in a project, turn the key, the engine starts and then the machine moves under it's own power is probably one of the most satisfying experiences around.[smilie=jumping.gif]

Then the gremlins start to show their ugly heads... :cool:

plkracer
01-24-2009, 06:46 PM
Yep, my axles are working great too.

K-fab, that definitely is the truth. Each time I bring it out it is more exhilirating. It seems to get better each time I make an adjustment. I still need a little camber added to the front. Under HEAVY braking, it wants to wander, or is this normal? The steering it really easy under braking too.

I have one thing to say, these bearclaws have BITE! Turns are FAR more controllable than with the auto tires. Donuts are awesome. The inside front tire lifts off about 3 inches and there is just a spray of tacky soil behind the buggy.


Another side note, the brakes are finally starting to bed in. They work great now. I can easily lock them up on dirt and the gravel road. Have yet to try asphault, but I bet they will lock up with enough foot power.

bdkw1
01-24-2009, 11:06 PM
Under HEAVY braking, it wants to wander, or is this normal? The steering it really easy under braking too.

Stick an angle finder on the cage leveled out at ride height. Do a braking run and see how much chassis pitch your getting. That will tell you what your castor is while braking.......... Anti-dive geometry anyone?

plkracer
01-24-2009, 11:10 PM
I think I'm running 6 degrees of caster now. A couple more would probably help. The original design had some antidive but I took it out to get my rack and tie rods to fit in properly with no bumpsteer.

plkracer
02-17-2009, 12:10 PM
I aired the shocks up more to a better ride height and the wobbly wheel under braking went away. I didn't notice how much they sagged after being brought out into the cold.

Here are some pictures with the new rear treads.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IMG_0266.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IMG_0267.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IMG_0268.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Plkracer/IMG_0269.jpg

sodman
02-17-2009, 02:52 PM
hows it going PLKracer
Nice build I've been following your thread since I became a member How's those new tires working out? How much travel does your shocks have front and back? . Seems that 750 has all kinds of getty up go .
Whats our opinion on the air shocks better than coil overs or not much difference only the cost.
I'm the process of dialing mine in will likely need different springs but ride I get now is real good so I guess things can only get better.
Sodman

plkracer
02-17-2009, 03:28 PM
hows it going PLKracer
Nice build I've been following your thread since I became a member How's those new tires working out? How much travel does your shocks have front and back? . Seems that 750 has all kinds of getty up go .
Whats our opinion on the air shocks better than coil overs or not much difference only the cost.
I'm the process of dialing mine in will likely need different springs but ride I get now is real good so I guess things can only get better.
Sodman

Thanks Sodman. The new tires are working great. A lot more grip, but they won't let you do a cookie in the middle of the road to turn around. The front has about 16-17 inches of travel with 8.5 shocks. I think the back has 11, but it is limited pretty good now. I can probably get 12 with those cv's and 13-14 with type 4's.

Coil overs are supposed to be better, but it was a cost thing for me. They ride just fine, but I need to soften them up a bit by backing off on the valving.

TWR11
02-28-2009, 12:39 PM
hows it going PLKracer
Nice build I've been following your thread since I became a member How's those new tires working out? How much travel does your shocks have front and back? . Seems that 750 has all kinds of getty up go .
Whats our opinion on the air shocks better than coil overs or not much difference only the cost.
I'm the process of dialing mine in will likely need different springs but ride I get now is real good so I guess things can only get better.
Sodman

NICE JOB, I have to agree that 750 seems like it has a lot of getty up and go, how is it geared, how many teeth on the front and back sprocket? and whats your top speed?

plkracer
03-01-2009, 01:07 AM
NICE JOB, I have to agree that 750 seems like it has a lot of getty up and go, how is it geared, how many teeth on the front and back sprocket? and whats your top speed?

Front is 13, rear is 60. With the 26 (actual) inch tires, the gearing calc came up with 105 mph I believe. Fastest I've taken it was a little over 80 and that was today on a gravel road. It gets up there in a hurry. My cousin had it up past 90 on an asphault road, and it was still pulling it like nothing.

The more I I drive the car, the harder I push it, and it's capabilities are starting to scare me. I feel safe in it, but it seems like a car like this shouldn't be able to do powerslides as well as it does. Riding the fourwheeler, or even driving a car, after driving the buggy puts it into a completely different perspective.

plkracer
03-02-2009, 02:43 AM
Back at school now... Took the car to Buena today for about 4 hours. It was the most fun I have ever had riding off-road and I have done my fair share. I think there is something exciting about driving something you built, and hoping it holds together....:p

Woke up around 830, called my uncle, we chatted about the weather, since it was forecasted to start raining around 4 pm, and we weren't sure if it was going to start earlier. Wouldn't that be in our favor if we get there and it starts to pour. It was pretty much complete overcast at the time, with a few steaks of "blue-er" sky and I could tell faintly where the sun was, so we decided it would be worth taking the chance. I grabbed a few things, headed over to his house with my pickup.

We loaded his fourwheeler, grabbed some drinks, then ate breakfast, and headed back to my house. We loaded the buggy onto the trailer, and headed out. Buena is about a 30 minute drive from my house, so it is very convenient. It is decently wide open with a lot of fourwheeler trails and a few main roads covered in gravel. In back there are some gnarly hill climbs and general rough terrain.

We got to Buena around 11, and were suprised to see how many people were already there. This place isn't too well known since it is off of a dead end road and you have to climb up and over the main water supply canal that comes out of the hill. (It's all paved with cement on the inside, so it makes it interesting to race around on motorbikes down in there.) There were about 6 trucks, each with a few motorbikes or quads. We parked the pickup, rolled the buggy off, and unhooked the trailer to get my uncle's Raptor out of the bed.

The people next to use had two BRAND NEW raptor 700's. They were CLEAN. One had a fuel injection problem, and I guess they though they could fix it by dry revving the engine while it was cold. Five minutes later it was back on the trailer for the day.

I went to start my buggy up to give it plenty of time to fully warm up. I did the usual 3 second burst two times, and she didn't fire. I thought wtf?? It has never taken more than two, and that is when it hasn't run for more than a week, or when it is freezing outside, but it was close to 50, and I was just driving it around the day before, and it was running awesome.

I shut the key off and turn it back on then notice the FI light flashing. My heart sunk, as I though ahhh fudge this can't be good. I sighed, then looked for anything obvious.... nothing. Unhooked the battery for a minute, then tried again. No luck. I started to panic thinking that the day was ruined.

Getting nowhere, I pull the code and get c42. I thought c42 wtf?? I've never seen that. I figure it was the tip over acting up, but nope. I unhook a few more connections and hook them back up. I try again. Success! No code!

Anyways, long story short, I sprayed the car down with wd 40 last night because I had it outside since I had the pickup in the shop to redo the trailer wires, and it was starting to rain. I cross referenced the code and it was the ignition switch signal for the ecu. I went back out the the shop after getting home today, unhooked the ignition switch, and sure enough, it reeks of wd 40. The whole inside was wet. No wonder! It is in a bad spot against the frame and it ran down into the connector and must had seeped in. The seals are all foam so they don't really keep thin liquids out.

Back to the ride... All in all it was awesome. After getting the buggy warmed up, we took it out. This thing has some serious oomph. I was able to climb any hill in third at around 6000 rpm. Rev her up and let the tires spin if you want to. The 750 has plenty of torque for this buggy. There wasn't a hill there that I couldn't climb. The bearclaws have wicked grip, especially if you think of how hard it is to push a 900 lb weight up a hill.

Overall I was amazed with the maneuverability it has. We took it out by the gravel pit and did a little "2x4" driving.:p The suspension flexed very well and i could climb very steep inclines and mounds in first gear while just putt-ing up it. There was one spot with a little switchback that was tight, but I was able to climb over the obstables to be able to make it without hopping out.

On the flats this buggy will haul some serious mail. There are a few main roads there that are about as wide as a lane of the road. This is where it really shined. 4th, 5th, 6th, then hold it wide open. Holy crap! I was flat flying down one of the roads about 80 ( don't worry, you can see a 1/4 mile ahead and there are no trail junctions there) and it was exhilirating. Drifts and powerslides are so smooth it is hard to tell if it is actually sliding. It is so controllable it is almost silly. I was able to power around some curves so fast that it made my head hurt. Bumps and mounds are soaked up effortlessly and 2 foot drop offs are smooth as butter. I was able to hit about 85 on the main road out from the staging area, but then it starts to get really rutted from the heavy rains we got last week. That foot deep eroded trench will eat a tire in no time. Not to mention the havoc it could impose by flipping the buggy.

Jumps are pretty fun too, but there were not too many suited for a buggy. The one by the staging area was a little short, and wanted to kick the back up unless you punched it as the front hit the transition. I had a few people cheering me on to go faster, but I could envision myself pulling a K-fab on that one. :D There was another jump in the very back that I really liked with the fourwheeler last time I went, and it was perfect for the buggy. Even though the landing was flat, it launches you at about a 30 degree angle and you can get a couple feet of air and about 15-20 feet of distance without too much speed. The shocks soaked that up like nothing. I would have gone faster but there is a nasty dip about 50 feet before it that likes to eat suspension travel. It took the twelve inches from the rear and still wanted more, so I had to go through that about 15-20 mph then gas it to hit the jump about 30.

I got a lot of looks today and a few people stopped by to talk about the car. The general question was where did you buy it?? Um... I didn't. That's when they get the funny look on their face, almost like an excited but confused look, like they want to ask "Where can I get in on that?" I think only one person asked if I built it myself, and I proudly said yes. A lot of people were really impressed by it, especially since it was home-built. It was extremely deceiving to them too because it is super quiet, and I drove around the staging area pretty slowly the first part of the day. When I finally opened it up around there people started to get interested. Unless it's got some serious power, people don't pay much attention.

I talked to a guy about the revolt and he seemed to know his stuff. He was a motorcycle mechanic for a long time and knew a lot about streetbikes and what I was running. Other people had never seen the likes of the off-road mini buggy before and were very curious. It sure does turn heads though.

The car is very comfortable to ride in. The suspension is still a bit stiff and will load up if you not careful on the whoops (needs faster rebound, softer compression would help too) but it still provides an exceptional ride. The trails there where pretty nasty and rutted, and while following a fourwheeler and watching it bob in and out of whoops, I began to feel relieved that I was strapped in the car. I will probably feel it more tomorrow, but I am not very sore, especially if you consider the same ride on a fourwheeler. The only thing that hurts now are my forearms and my traps. Other than that, I;m good to go.

I got a little video from today. My uncle is driving the car, and it started to rain so we wanted to get packed up. While watching him drive I was amazed at how effortlessly it spins the tires. I don't feel it in the car, but whenever he steps on the gas, they light up like they are greased. That is no small feat either. Looking at some of the trenches the tires dig is almost mind boggling. It's amazing how those lugs manage to stay attached to the carcass.

I got about 3 hours of total drive time on the car today with no mechanical problems so that is a huge plus. I drove it HARD through some rough chit and whoops at high rates of speed with a lot of drivetrain loading and unloading and nothing failed so I think it should be dune worthy on spring break. Moses Lake, here I come, round 2! With better tires this time. :D

It was an awesome day as a whole, except for the rain. I can't wait to get back and drive it some more. 2 1/2 weeks! And 4 finals....:eek: Oh well, hopefully it passes soon, I will have an easy spring quarter.

Well, here she be...

Oh... BTW, he never buried the throttle... and he only touched 10k when he was on the straight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJJ0EZrO8jo

el diablo
03-02-2009, 11:35 AM
Very nice!!:):)

rowycoracing
03-02-2009, 08:19 PM
That looks like a lot of fun. You gotta tell me how to get there some day ... it would be fun to meet up for a ride.

plkracer
03-02-2009, 08:59 PM
That looks like a lot of fun. You gotta tell me how to get there some day ... it would be fun to meet up for a ride.


It's right off I-82, and real easy to get to if you know the right roads to take. Hop on Yakima valley Highway at Wapato and follow it for a few miles then head toward the hill, and drive up and over the canal.

A lot of people don't know about it since I believe it is county property and it is real hard to see from the road unless you look at the hill they are starting to build houses on :( The whole riding spot is pretty well concealed by hills all around. I can't really find it mentioned online anywhere either. It used to be a big party spot back in the 80's and 90's.

I'm probably headed back that Friday after I get back from school, depending on the weather. That would make it the 20th of March, so a few weeks away, but I may then go to Moses lake on Saturday, or make it a two day trip later the next week, again, trying to find a decent window of good weather.

rowycoracing
03-02-2009, 09:02 PM
OK I think I see it on google earth but the roads I would have to take to get there aren't too obvious. I'll have to study it more.

Gene
03-02-2009, 09:16 PM
Great report Stephan!

Good to read about the trip, the interest in the car and the pride you have in the build.

Nice work.

plkracer
03-02-2009, 09:22 PM
Okay, i found one thing online. I guess they call it "The slab" now. My uncle said the main hill in front was the "Face".

The one the jeep and the red yota are climbing up is the face. I hit that sucker in 4th pinned at about 7000 rpm and my uncle said rocks were flying everywhere.

Here's a site on it.

Washington State ORV Trails - The Slab (http://www.aworc.com/orv-area/The-Slab.html)

plkracer
03-22-2009, 07:33 AM
It's spring break, so time to do a little work, and post an update to the car. I bought 2 4" HID lights from shucks and mounted them up Thursday night. They put out a lot of light!

I also mounted an LED tail light on the back so it can be seen a little better in the dark. I also need to hook up the brake light part of it eventually.

I decided to remount the radiator so it would give in a rollover. It is much more forgiving now, and it shouldn't crack.

The dash was redone with a little 4 inch aluminum box which barely fit all of the switches and the low fuel light. It looks really clean though.

I used a 9 inch aluminum dash box for the computer and other sensitive sensors. It was a tight fit, but I stuffed the computer in there with some foam. It should be very well protected now.

That's about all I have done so far. I have most of it on video, so I will upload that and some pics when I get back around the first of April.

I plan to take it out later today if the weather complies, but we shall see. Good video of me driving will be taken, I promise!!

LEE1969GB
03-28-2009, 02:39 PM
Could you tell me do you get dxf files for the laser cut parts for the barracuda build or just drawings, I know you can get the parts from the edge and others but posting lumps of metal to the uk would cost a fortune.
In fact do you get the drawings to make everything yourself or do you HAVE to buy some parts, or is that just the Rotony plans.

zukpower
03-28-2009, 04:09 PM
verry nice machine ,i like the model and the power.

verry coolllllllllllllllllllll[smilie=ecstatic.gi:

plkracer
03-28-2009, 08:54 PM
Did a good bit of driving today. Didn't take it to the slab since it was raining on and off, but I got a little video from inside the car. I jumped it for about 30 minutes, which was awesome. There is a tabletop about a mile down the road that is big enough to be a little hairy on a fourwheeler if you aren't used to it. It is probably 20-25 feet long, but the approach and landing are really steep, so you get up in the air pretty good. The buggy flew over the whole thing with ease. Too bad I don't have video of that. I have the fan on it now, and it kicks in about 210, and drops the motor temp to about 205-206 before it cuts off. I was driving it pretty hard and the fan barely came on, so that is good.

On the way back home I did a little speed run. 90+ gets a little iffy on gravel! :eek: It gets up there quick, but it starts to struggle past 90 mph. The motor is turning 12,500, and I don't have the throttle bodies opening up fully, but you can tell the wind resistance is working the motor over pretty good. It was still accelerating, but wheel slip started to be a concern. Any little bump or dip would cause them to spin. The car is still unbelievably stable at that speed. It didn't feel loose or twitchy, but really smooth, and the steering was tight.

Can't wait to get some more drive time in. I got over an hour today, but my range of terrain was limited, but atleast I got to test everything out and get some more air time.

If I stick around tonight I will try to get some night video with the lights, as long as the rain quits.

I will post the videos when I get back to school, sometime tomorrow.

plkracer
03-28-2009, 08:57 PM
Could you tell me do you get dxf files for the laser cut parts for the barracuda build or just drawings, I know you can get the parts from the edge and others but posting lumps of metal to the uk would cost a fortune.
In fact do you get the drawings to make everything yourself or do you HAVE to buy some parts, or is that just the Rotony plans.


You only get the drawings.

plkracer
03-29-2009, 05:47 PM
Here's the in car video. I need to find a way to solid mount the camera. It's a little hard to hold onto, and driving with 1 hand is not the easiest.

YouTube - Mini buggy driver view Edge Barracuda (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bXrdJn5d6U)

The HD should be coming soon, once it is fully processed, but you need to click on the video to get that option I believe.

Here is a little walk around from Tuesday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri66cdyt2xk

The Kar Audio Guy
03-29-2009, 07:38 PM
if you put 5w resistor inline with the LED that would solve you problem too...I believe, but I would need to know details about the circuit to be 100%

nice buggy! seeing all the vids makes me want to get mine done even faster

plkracer
03-29-2009, 08:37 PM
if you put 5w resistor inline with the LED that would solve you problem too...I believe, but I would need to know details about the circuit to be 100%

nice buggy! seeing all the vids makes me want to get mine done even faster

Yeah, the stock system uses a 60 some ohm resistor I believe?? This isn't the right dash for this year, so I need an external source of resistance to the ground. The one for this year has it in the dash, but it is impossible to find the correct dash. The light seems to work well enough, and has enough resistance to keep the led off. Need to burn some more fuel to see if it comes on though, which it should. It would light up a 5watt bulb, and I think the one I put in there is less than 5 watts.

The Kar Audio Guy
03-30-2009, 09:10 AM
you could also wire in a small 5amp relay (they are super small and work great in my installs), then you can have your circuit open till the relay is triggered by the fuel level switch...:) just thoughts

plkracer
03-30-2009, 12:43 PM
That sounds like a good idea. I will have to look into it. Do you know how much power it takes to trip a relay? I bet a transistor would also work, but they require so little power, and probably wouldn't be any different than the led by itself.

The Kar Audio Guy
03-30-2009, 01:35 PM
the ones I use will trigger with as little as 1v and up to 15v to close the relay...I can send you a few in the mail if you wanna play with them. I have a few products I made the use them so I always have a couple thousand laying around. send me a email with your info for the post...

plkracer
03-30-2009, 04:44 PM
the ones I use will trigger with as little as 1v and up to 15v to close the relay...I can send you a few in the mail if you wanna play with them. I have a few products I made the use them so I always have a couple thousand laying around. send me a email with your info for the post...

I have 12 volts at the light, but you try to draw any current and it drops down big time. I don't think I need any relays. This current setup should work just fine.

I do need a big relay for a 12v conversion we did on a truck. Any clue where to get one that can handle 40-60 amps? It's for a single wire alternator. In fact... I need 2 of them.

Might even try a starter solenoid. We have a few of those lying around, but would they take continuous duty, or would the coil overheat?

The Kar Audio Guy
03-30-2009, 05:10 PM
check out a company call HELLROARING.com we use all there battery isolators and high current stators(relay)

b.c.bugger
03-30-2009, 11:40 PM
plk you can buy continuous duty solenoids from the local parts store, they are only a couple bucks more than a regular one (same as a winch uses) I run ALL the electrical for my v-8 landcruiser through one I believe it was about $15 up here in canada

plkracer
04-27-2009, 03:59 AM
I have another update to make. This one has been in the works for a few weeks now. I was not completely satisfied with the 11 or so inches of rear travel using the vw cv's, and the po-dunk limit straps weren't up to par, so I decided to do something... I bought some cv's from the junk yard and went to work. They were off of a subaru impreza, and they are pretty small. I cut the stub off, and machined some rings, then welded them onto the cv. I drilled the hole pattern to match the type 2/4's and then cut the axles and welded them into the DOM tube I had for my other axles. 70 dollars and a bunch of time later, I have 15.5 inches of rear travel!:D It took some ingenuity to get the plunge I needed, but I have it all worked out now. They run about 29 degrees at full droop, and it uses the whole stroke of the shock. They do get a little warm after prolonged high speed driving, but not hot enough to worry me. The extra travel is worth it. The car transfers weight a lot better, making high speed turns and donuts very interesting. Jumps are much smoother. It takes whoops a lot better, and does not pitch as bad as it used to.

We took the car back out the the slab on Saturday and really tore it up, both the car and the dirt. :) Even with the 1.5-2 inches of ground clearance, the back still managed to tag the ground a few good times. There was a 4 foot drop off that I was taking at 60+, and OMG that was awesome. It would soak it right up. I should have put more air in the tires. I am convinced they are soaking up those couple of inches easily. A few scratches and dents on the bottom doesn't hurt much though.

Another small incident involved going a little too fast on an unknown trail. I was probably doing 40-50 on a small trail that was just barely wide enough. It was awesome since it had some long sweeping corners since it followed the edge of the hill. I was accelerating out of a corner when I saw a wash-out draw thing that was carved into the hill. It was probably 18 inches deep and about 5 feet wide. I though OH SHIT, and I mashed the brakes, but that wasn't enough. I flew into the draw, and the front hit dead on the opposite side, bottoming out the front shocks, and plowing the front bumper into the dirt. The car kept moving after removing a large chunk of dirt and shoveling it into my face. I shut it off and crawled out grasping myself. I managed to smoosh one of them in between the anti sub belt, and oh my god that hurt. Remember to retighten your belts as soon as you feel that they are loose. I bet this could have been avoided if my lap belts were snugged up better. I looked back at the draw an noticed a guy on a fourwheeler admiring my trench. He didn't bother to come over.

I got some good video of the hill climbs I did that day, but they were on a hi8 tape so I had to play it on the tv and record it with my camera. I missed a shift on my second climb, but was able to get it back into second gear and power up the hill while spewing rocks and dirt out the back. There is a NASTY ridge near the top that sticks out about 6-8 inches and it makes it interesting to hop over and keep going without stalling. These climbs are almost impossible with a fourwheeler unless you are extremely careful not to flip over after getting over the lip. The rocks at the top have a lot of traction. I left it in 3rd during one climb but didn't want to hit the lip too hard so I ended up stalling the motor. There is also another part in the video where I was running along the top, and it looks like the car is suddenly sprung into the air. I was confused at that myself, but I found the culprit. A large rock decided to catch the dog leg in the a arm, and give it a decent bruise. At least it protects the shock. Well, sorry for the long read, here's the vid!

YouTube - Edge Cuda at the Slab hillclimbs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVMAkM53hgk)

David M
04-30-2009, 12:06 AM
The cuda is progressing nicely, i,ve had a couple of those painfull oh shit moments.:)

plkracer
05-18-2009, 05:31 PM
Well, another small update... I've been having problems and complaints about the steering setup on the cuda. The tie rods behind the arms pose all kinds of little problems, so I decided to do something about it. :) I pulled it all out and put it in front of the arms. The geometry was difficult to get perfect, but it is sooo much better. I added in a little more ackermann than I had before, which is much more than the standard cuda, and I was able to get out some more bumpsteer. When I remake the front uprights, I should be able to get it all out. There is only a slight toe in as you compress the front. It is about 1/8 of an inch change from full droop to full compression. Before it was a little over 1/4.

The rack was a tight fit, and the boots rub slightly on the frame rails, but I don't mind replacing them every season or two. The payoff is worth it. Take into account that I am not using the xrv rack.

The car seems to steer a lot better now, and is more responsive to steering inputs, which I believe is from the ackerman. I can easily turn around in a 4 way intersection, on asphalt, with the locked rear end. I am using all of what the heims have to offer, but I wonder if I can dremel them a tad to get a couple more degrees?? They are 3/4 heims, so they are plenty strong even with a little material removed.

I am going to reset the upper front a arm back to where it should be so that is has more anti-dive, which should keep the front end up a little better when braking.

K-fab
05-18-2009, 06:13 PM
No pix???[smilie=whistle.gif]

plkracer
05-18-2009, 09:50 PM
No pix???[smilie=whistle.gif]

No, sorry k-fab. I forgot to take pics when I was home. The whole weekend was rushed, but I will try to get pics this weekend. We are going camping in the woods, and plan to take the car up there, since they allow them to drive on 4x4 trails.

krygods
07-28-2009, 01:23 PM
did anyone notice that modal in the top left hand corner of the last video?? LoL looks like a window in the background...

millfab313
07-29-2009, 11:05 PM
just read your whole thread. love the build keep up the good work