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f1prerun
05-19-2005, 12:08 AM
Ok I am building a mini rail right now; 2 seat a-arm front and rear. I am using a cbr f3 600cc w/ a turbo set up. My question; and it is a stupid one, but how do I hook up a clutch to my motor? I am using a set of CNC clutch/brake pedals (buggy pedals)??? Sorry just trying to figure it out.

So far I have the rail designed on cad and the main frame will be built out of 1.25" .095 wall everything tig welded. The motor is a stock 97 cbr f3 600 cc w/ my own turbo setup hopefully around 4-5 pounds of boost. The suspension will be done in 1-1/8" .120 wall. The front has 24" travel and it is 76" wide. The rear should have about 20+ depending if I run the 930's 28* or a u-joint style rear 35* and the rear will be 80" wide and the wheelbase is set at 85". CNC pedals, sequantial shifter, prp lowbacks w/ adj. head rest, 10-11 gallon aluminum tank, Foz 17x17 radiator w/ spal electric fan and a custom aluminum rear diff w/ a 4 piston wilwood. I think thats it.

Glamisman
05-19-2005, 01:00 AM
Most of the 600 cc bike motors I have seen have a cable actuated clutch. Is yours hydraulic? Either way it is really straight forward. The only warning I have is to be careful to not overdrive the clutch. The clutch on motorcycle motors really only needs a few mm of travel to disengage.

amergin
05-19-2005, 01:21 AM
I purchased a complete CNC pedal kit that came with a hydraulic clutch slave. My build is a ZX6 with a cable clutch. It's not that hard to mount the clutch slave and run a line.

This is the set I have.
http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-asp/images/300R.jpg
http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-asp/images/122.jpg

The master cylinders can be unbolted and flipped over to make them into a swing mounted style. I looked like a fool when I went back to Fibertech and asked to trade up to the other style for $20 more. The salesman unbolted and flipped them around for me right then. :oops:

Did you buy the pedal set with two master cylinders?

Montanaminirail
05-19-2005, 12:40 PM
I have a similar setup on my Kaw 750 motor using the clutch master and slave cylinders off of a Toyota Tercel. The problem is that it is insanely hard to push the pedal. The clutch was hard to pull when it was on the bike but I figured with a 7" long pedal and this hydraulic setup it would be cake, boy was I wrong.
I guess I will have to fab a lever for the slave cylinder to gain some mech advantage.

live_riderhd
05-19-2005, 03:11 PM
hmmm...the clutch on my engine is very stiff too(can't pull it by hand). But when i set up my hydraulic clutch(slave)...it was cake to push the pedal and actuate the clutch. I can push the clutch pedal down with 1 finger easily.

f1prerun
05-19-2005, 04:54 PM
Ok thanks guys. I havent got the pedals yet; I am picking them up on saturday. Actually I think I am going to go w/ cnc's reverse style hanging pedals that way I can have more room in the front of the buggy. Also with this route it has bigger masters on both pedals but they are seperate. And I will be getting a slave too. Thank you very much, its a good thing I asked because I wasn't going to get the slave.

amergin
05-19-2005, 06:15 PM
Hey, you're the first minibuggy.net user to get a question answered that helped with your build.... :D

live_riderhd
05-19-2005, 06:25 PM
Yeehaw!!

f1prerun
05-19-2005, 07:04 PM
What do I win??? :D

Glamisman
05-19-2005, 07:20 PM
The clutch pedal effort on both of my rails is very easy both the cable and hydraulic. I actually broke the counter shaft cover on the Hayabusa (hydraulic) when my left foot slipped and folded the temporary pedal limit tab. $90 and 3 days later with a beefier pedal travel limit tab and it works.

amergin
05-22-2005, 07:57 PM
f1prerun,

There's really only three ways to hook up the slave cylinder and brakes. Hard lines which means you needs a little bending tool. The other options are either steel braided lines or there's a kit that comes with silicon tubing and all the connectors. The silicon tubing is the easiest and least desirable of the three option. A longer pull arm on the clutch will make it easier to pull. Still, the stock shouldn't be that difficult.

f1prerun
05-22-2005, 10:52 PM
Ya I was just wondering if they use the stock arm. I was thinking about making one a little longer/stronger to pull easier but we shall see if the stock one works fine. Thanks

sandtastic
05-23-2005, 01:06 AM
This is the same setup we use on the full size rails. I can't imagian a motocycle clutch being any harder to engage then full size bus tranny.

xsfun
06-07-2005, 04:51 PM
I too used the CNC brand pedal assembly, here is a photo of how I rigged mine, seems to work fine.

live_riderhd
06-07-2005, 05:03 PM
i saw those pics on the yahoo group...I love the way you set that up. Looks so clean. Awesome.

amergin
06-07-2005, 09:43 PM
That's clean looking, nice custom mount.

desert_mouse
06-21-2006, 10:18 PM
i agree!!! that's very nice. great thinking.

hotwheels000
06-21-2006, 10:38 PM
Ya I was just wondering if they use the stock arm. I was thinking about making one a little longer/stronger to pull easier but we shall see if the stock one works fine. Thanks


If it isnt to late for input, the extended arm will also allow you to control how much the actuator and presure plate move and thus eliminates the need for a maunaul limiting device at the pedals. Much cleaner look and easy to fab :D